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Unitas Calibre 6325 Service Walkthrough


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Unitas Calibre 6325 Service Walkthrough Pictures - Disassembly
(Please sort the pictures by name in ascending order)

For the disassembly sequence to make sense it is very important that the pictures are sorted by name in ascending order. Generally, the sequence of pictures first shows the part to be removed in its position on the movement and the following picture shows the removed part separately.

Unitas Calibre 6325 Service Walkthrough Pictures - Assembly
(Please sort the pictures by name in ascending order)

For the assembly sequence to make sense it is very important that the pictures are sorted by name in ascending order. Generally, the sequence of pictures first shows the part to be assembled along with any screws holding it in place. The following picture shows the section of the movement where that part is to be assembled along with my lubrication suggestion, and the picture after that shows the part when assembled on the movement.

The Unitas calibre 6325 is very similar to the Unitas calibre 6498 which is the course movement on watchrepairlessons.com. Unfortunately, due to its increasing popularity, the Unitas calibre 6498 is becoming more and more expensive, although there are inexpensive Chinese clones. So, in my opinion, Unitas calibre 6325 is an excellent and inexpensive option for the course. As a matter of fact, there is a version of the Unitas calibre 6325 having a bridge configuration that looks to be identical to the Unitas calibre 6498. You’ll find plenty of watches housing the Unitas calibre 6325 on eBay.

Unitas Calibre 6325 links:
bidfun-db Archive: Watch Movements: Unitas 6325 - mtr-Ranfft

Unitas 6325 - 17jewels.info
„Wehrmachtswerk“; Unitas 6325 - Junghans Vintage

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Fantastic! You did a lot of work on this but the results are worth the effort. Great pictures and I love the little arrows showing where to oil and what oils to use. It will be a very helpful reference to someone starting on their watchmaking adventure with this movement.

 

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3 hours ago, JohnHutchins said:

Fantastic! You did a lot of work on this but the results are worth the effort. Great pictures and I love the little arrows showing where to oil and what oils to use. It will be a very helpful reference to someone starting on their watchmaking adventure with this movement.

 

Thank you for your kind words, John, they mean a lot to me! :biggrin:

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Complemented the assembly image sequence (please see the first post in this thread) with images from my timing machine. I'm happy with the result, especially the amplitude,  which I believe is pretty much as good as can be expected from the Unitas Calibre 6325. However, I'd appreciate and take great interest in your opinion about the amplitude!

While on the topic of amplitude (although OT I, of course, don't mind), here are my gathered notations of what to investigate should it be to low:

o    Over-oiling in general, for example, the pallet stones, the seconds hand pivot.
o    Jewel settings not sitting flat under the anti-shock spring creating friction on the balance staff pivots.
o    Too little end-shake.
o    Balance staff pivots and jewel holes not cleaned and polished well enough!
o    Too weak mainspring.
o    Hairspring problems (magnetism, dirt, debris, asymmetrical)
o    The hairspring index pins (bent, not running properly along the hairspring terminal curve)
o    Train of wheels not running smoothly (friction problems).
 

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    • An incabloc spring? About 10p at the current price 🤣
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    • Polish it where the old part cracked as well. Get rid of the stress-raisers.
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    • Hello everyone, for what it's worth, here is my approach: 1. Escape wheel submerged in Epilame, then dried quickly with a hairdryer. Then the final tip of the pivots are cleaned by poking into pithwood. The logic being that the Epilame is removed at the intended contact point (to avoid any residue that may mix with the oil), but remains in the areas where oil is not supposed to spread to (further down the pivot towards the wheel). The escape wheel teeth also benefit from having Epilame to keep the 9415 in place.  2. I use a syringe to treat only the pallet stones. I suspend the pallet fork with some Rodico so that the stones hang downwards. I notably use a rather thick needle where a drop WON'T form, but rather where the Epilame liquid stays in the needle tip, which I then dip into the pallet stones. It requires some practice to get the right amount of Epilame into the needle tip, but it works for me now. This way, no drop will "jump" onto the pallet fork and potentially go all the way to the pivots.  3. I let the movement run for a few minutes without lubricating the pallet stones... to scrape off the Epilame in the intended contact "channel". Then I remove the balance again and lubricate the exit pallet stone with 3-4 successive drops. See the "channel" that forms on the pallet stone in the picture -- not so easy to see, but it's visible.       I am conflicted about the use of Epliame in balance jewel settings. My impression is that the two jewels sufficiently suspend the oil (even 9010). Apparently Rolex recommends NOT to use Epliame there (heard from a former Rolex service center watchmaker), as it could cause additional wear. Apart from that, I follow specific instructions where I can find them. E.g. the infamous Rolex reverser wheels or sometimes (parts of) the seconds wheel. Exception: I'm currently servicing an Eta 2824 and will probably ignore the service sheet that recommends treating the whole keyless works with Epilame and then using HP1300... I'll skip the Epilame and use 9504 grease.        
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