If the mainspring unwinds back through the stem then the click may have failed. On these earlier longines the click spring is concealed under the barrel bridge.
Loose screw - most likely you loosened the bolt screw to far and it has fallen out. Remedy - remove dial to reveal bolt (aka setting lever and hold static while you reinsert the stew again).
I am ordering some things, and thought I'd try again to get this guy back on the road. The Incabloc springs fell out, and I broke one trying to get it back in. I tried micing it, but what I'm getting doesn't line up with any of the springs I see on the Incabloc parts chart. I was hoping to back door it by seeing if I can figure out what setting the movement it's based on is supposed to have, but I can't figure out what the movement is. The only markings are a faint "+ -" on the balance cock, and a star on the rotor (pictured, but difficult to see) that was under a decorative plate.
Agreed. But I don’t think a 4-jaw is something I happen to need for my watchmaking lathe. Vinn says “4 jaw is best” but not for my needs. I’m not drilling main plate holes or anything like that.... I can’t think when I would have benefited from one.
That said, I have used a 4-jaw a few times when making some tools on the larger clockmakers lathe.
I believe the watch is made by the morath bros of Liverpool. The watch itself is unnamed and only has a number printed onto the movement. Not sure how hard it would be to source a new wheel or clutch.
It has a sub second hand. Thanks for all the thoughts, very interesting.
I hope it doesn't cost too much. Was a recent ebay purchase and the repeater mechanism already needed work.
Sorry so.you mean power is bad on just the basic movement. If so then you need to start breaking that down too.
Removing the balance and the pallet, winding up the watch , what is the winding down like, smooth and fast or does it need help to wind down?
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