I have an old Waltham pocket watch movement which is missing the impulse pin (roller jewel). I have a limited number of actual jewels and since this is just a practice movement I thought I'd try to make one out of brass. I've seen this several times in old pieces--usually a very sloppy job. So I got some brass stock of the same diameter as the "D" in the roller table, filed it and burnished it to a high gloss. Then I took a small, very fine diamond file and filed it half flat to form the "D" I then polished the face using progressively finer sandpaper on a steel block. This works fine--so far! Problem is separation of the piece from the stock. Again I used a small cutting file to do this but it doesn't leave the end very pretty. So what I've done so far is to fit the good end into the roller table. I then plan to shellac it in place and see if I can very carefully adjust the length and clean up the end. Has anyone done this before? Any suggestions as to how best to do it?
Had to get new winding stem to an Omega cal. 342 , beacuse not original crown.
Got an replacement from Ronda, but does not fit.
Tried to fit the stem yesterday, but Im not able to get in in right in the movment.
The original just go right in every time, but the new Ronda stem will not go properly in.
Are there anyone that have some ide why this not fit?
Can the notch in the stem where I have put red arrow have somthing todo with this??
Its slightly smaller on the Ronda stem... se photo
For a newcomer the skills you'll be needing to pick up are to do with dexterity in handling small parts with tweezers, undoing screws and making sure the screwdriver blade doesn't slip, cleaning parts, reassembly, putting the balance back in place etc. etc.
You don't want to be starting out with expensive movements and so pin-lever designs (like the Ronda 1113) are ideal as they'll introduce you to the makeup of a watch and allow you to practice the above skills and can be picked up pretty inexpensively.
Initially I'd advise getting hold of a working movement. This way you can concentrate on the important dexterity skills and disassembling and reassembling with the aim of the watch still working afterwards! The danger with picking up a non-working movement - especially on cheaper movements with limited shock protection and jewel counts - is that the balance staff can be shot or parts worn which then means you have to get other movements the same for spares or new parts which outweigh the value of the movement.
So in summary I'd say the actual movement you chose is less important than getting something that works already and/or where there is good availability of other 'spares or repairs' movements the same so if something goes wrong you have a parts backup source.
Old movement probably been sitting idle for long time, I soak the movement in naphta for a day or two or apply penetrating oil which reduces risk of breaking screws . Take extra care with pin pallets. Not worth buying parts for, I got some parts to it.
Whatever method is used to remove a staff it is imperative not to distort the balance or elongate the hole. The most trusted method used for many years was to remove part or all of the staff on a watchmakers lathe. However there are other methods which involve pushing the old staff out either with a Platax tool or a staking set. These methods can be problematic especially with vintage watches as the metal used was very hard. Also when using this method you must support the cross section of the balance to eradicate any distortion. There is a tool that can be purchased for this for staking sets.
Personally I remove part of the staff on my lathe and then push it out to eliminate any mishaps.
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