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    • By east3rn
      Hello. 
      I am about to work on a Omega ladies automatic watch.
      I found out that the axis of the rotor is out of place and shakes up and down.
      What could be done in this situation?
      Thanks!

    • By DouglasSkinner
      I have an old Waltham pocket watch movement which is missing the impulse pin (roller jewel).  I have a limited number of actual jewels and since this is just a practice movement I thought I'd try to make one out of brass.  I've seen this several times in old pieces--usually a very sloppy job.  So I got some brass stock of the same diameter as the "D" in the roller table, filed it and burnished it to a high gloss.  Then I took a small, very fine diamond file and filed it half flat to form the "D"  I then polished the face using progressively finer sandpaper on a steel block.  This works fine--so far!  Problem is separation of the piece from the stock.  Again I used a small cutting file to do this but it doesn't leave the end very pretty.  So what I've done so far is to fit the good end into the roller table.  I then plan to shellac it in place and see if I can very carefully adjust the length and clean up the end.  Has anyone done this before?  Any suggestions as to how best to do it?  
    • By arkobugg
      Cheers mates!!
      Had to get new winding stem to an Omega cal. 342 , beacuse not original crown.
      Got an replacement from Ronda, but does not fit.
      Tried to fit the stem yesterday, but Im not able to get in in right in the movment.   The original just go right in every time, but the new Ronda stem will not go properly in.   Are there anyone that have some ide why this not fit?   Can the notch in the stem where I have put red arrow have somthing todo with this??   Its slightly smaller on the Ronda stem...  se photo  

    • By arkobugg
      Cheers Mates!
       
      Working on a Omega Cal. 613, have done service, and watch performs well on the time-grapher, but when put dial and hand on, I can see that the
       
       
       
       
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    • If the slot is only a fraction wider, the two points of contact will be on the opposite corners of the blade on the diagonal of the slot. This causes tensile stress which can cause more damage than a traditional v-shaped blade in the correct size because it evenly grips the full length of the slot.
    • hello to all, Does anyone know when lesson 4 will be open for enrollment? I cant find any info on the WR website about it.
    • Actually that is not true. If the slot is wider there will be no full contact between driver blade and screw, but there will be two shorter points of contact, since these are parallel to the axis of the blade they  not tend to lift the tool, which is good. In addition there will be some friction between the tip of the blade, and the bottom of the slot. As a result, he screw will be driven properly. Compare to a wedge shaped (aka flared) driver. In theory there are always two thin strips of contact, which are as wide as the blade. The down side is that the blade tends to cam out because there the surface asre not paralled are inclined, and there is no friction contact to the bottom. Parallel tip drivers are also somehow common in general mechanic, from small to big sizes. These are usually considered better, and are more expensive.  In the comments of this article https://www.cnccookbook.com/8-brands-to-consider-for-the-worlds-best-screwdriver you can read about paralled, plus JIS and Pozi cross types, which are unknown to many.
    • Send it to replateit.com in Canada. Wonderful work. They know omega. Theyve done dozens for me so far.
    • Glad to be here....
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