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    • By daveincarthage
      Got a ladies Omega De Ville in an auction lot today. My limit for repairs to this point has been installing batteries. The watch runs but runs several hours fast. 
      I know there are a few reasons it could be running fast. I don't have a degausser but suspect it could be magnetized. 
      What are some other things I should consider or questions I should ask if I take it in for repair?
      Also, do you know if there was originally a plastic retaining ring to secure the movement in the case? There was none when I opened the back.
       
      Thanks in advance!
       
       

    • By jakobvinkas
      Hello!
      Not sure if this is the right place for my question since I do not intend to do the repair myself. However I am wondering if anyone knows an approximate price of a tachymeter for the Omega 3520.50 day-date (tripple date).
      If anyone has any idea what a insert and the "repair" would cost at a watch shop, please let me know.
      Thanks in advance.
      Jakob

    • By east3rn
      Hello. 
      I am about to work on a Omega ladies automatic watch.
      I found out that the axis of the rotor is out of place and shakes up and down.
      What could be done in this situation?
      Thanks!

    • By DouglasSkinner
      I have an old Waltham pocket watch movement which is missing the impulse pin (roller jewel).  I have a limited number of actual jewels and since this is just a practice movement I thought I'd try to make one out of brass.  I've seen this several times in old pieces--usually a very sloppy job.  So I got some brass stock of the same diameter as the "D" in the roller table, filed it and burnished it to a high gloss.  Then I took a small, very fine diamond file and filed it half flat to form the "D"  I then polished the face using progressively finer sandpaper on a steel block.  This works fine--so far!  Problem is separation of the piece from the stock.  Again I used a small cutting file to do this but it doesn't leave the end very pretty.  So what I've done so far is to fit the good end into the roller table.  I then plan to shellac it in place and see if I can very carefully adjust the length and clean up the end.  Has anyone done this before?  Any suggestions as to how best to do it?  
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    • In order to properly service the movement you absolutely should remove the wheel so that you can clean any contaminated or degraded oil away (which if left could very easily result in premature wear and failure even if the side shake is acceptable now) and relubricate with fresh oil.  A dedicated 5 spoke wheel puller is the best way to go as it pulls at the hub, eliminating the risk of deforming the wheel, but not the only way. The important thing is to pull the wheel straight up with no twisting or canting of the wheel since the arbor is brittle and will snap sooner than bend. This can be achieved using two thin blades worked under the wheel from opposite sides to gradually wedge the wheel up. You may need to protect the bridge with some paper or tape to prevent scratches, and you need to use blades that are only very slightly thicker than the gap between the wheel and the bridge because you need to progress slowly, and don't be tempted to twist the blades. As long as the force is straight up in line with the arbor, and gradual enough to not deform the wheel, you should be alright. 
    • Discharge barrel power, then feel the side shake on the wheel( independently driven minute wheel), if no excessive side shake or other faults, just leave the wheel where it is, do not remove it.       
    • To safely remove you need a "5 Spoke Wheel Remover", check your materials house. 
    • What is the brand of the crystal. That looks like a low dome. I normally use GS crystals and the left one looks like a dive tite or one of “tite” models. Was there a tension ring. I never really order from cousins because shipping takes forever to USA, so not sure what they sell.
    • Welcome on WRT, enjoy the wealth of knowledge that is around here
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