Jump to content
  • Similar Content

    • By daveincarthage
      Got a ladies Omega De Ville in an auction lot today. My limit for repairs to this point has been installing batteries. The watch runs but runs several hours fast. 
      I know there are a few reasons it could be running fast. I don't have a degausser but suspect it could be magnetized. 
      What are some other things I should consider or questions I should ask if I take it in for repair?
      Also, do you know if there was originally a plastic retaining ring to secure the movement in the case? There was none when I opened the back.
       
      Thanks in advance!
       
       

    • By jakobvinkas
      Hello!
      Not sure if this is the right place for my question since I do not intend to do the repair myself. However I am wondering if anyone knows an approximate price of a tachymeter for the Omega 3520.50 day-date (tripple date).
      If anyone has any idea what a insert and the "repair" would cost at a watch shop, please let me know.
      Thanks in advance.
      Jakob

    • By east3rn
      Hello. 
      I am about to work on a Omega ladies automatic watch.
      I found out that the axis of the rotor is out of place and shakes up and down.
      What could be done in this situation?
      Thanks!

    • By DouglasSkinner
      I have an old Waltham pocket watch movement which is missing the impulse pin (roller jewel).  I have a limited number of actual jewels and since this is just a practice movement I thought I'd try to make one out of brass.  I've seen this several times in old pieces--usually a very sloppy job.  So I got some brass stock of the same diameter as the "D" in the roller table, filed it and burnished it to a high gloss.  Then I took a small, very fine diamond file and filed it half flat to form the "D"  I then polished the face using progressively finer sandpaper on a steel block.  This works fine--so far!  Problem is separation of the piece from the stock.  Again I used a small cutting file to do this but it doesn't leave the end very pretty.  So what I've done so far is to fit the good end into the roller table.  I then plan to shellac it in place and see if I can very carefully adjust the length and clean up the end.  Has anyone done this before?  Any suggestions as to how best to do it?  
  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hey, bit late to the party but I use the Elma 1:9 too. I have spent a lot of time trialing different strategies for cleaning parts. The best I have come up with is Elma 1:9 in an ultrasonic at about 40C for 4 minutes, then rinsing the parts basket in distilled water at 40-50C twice, the second time in the ultrasonic. For some but not all parts I use pure Isopropyl alcohol as a final rinse. I have a gallon of the Suprol rinse here doing nothing but posing a fire hazard. Because I hate the smell of it and also, no matter what I tried it would leave some residue on the parts after drying. I have an Elma S10, non heated ultrasonic cleaner, it works very well. I just run my tap to get the water temperature right, and considering the short cleaning times the water doesn't cool down much.
    • Could you please help me with the crown? I have these buttons, but what does that 9/24, 9/28 etc means? 9 or 8 are the thread size right? 9 is 0.9mm? But what is /24 and /28 and /30? Would that be 2.4 2.8  and 3 mm? I tried to compare a 9/24 to a 9/30 but the 9/30 does not seem to be bigger in any dimension? Not even sure if the right sized buttons are in the right container. I am trying to find a silver button for the silver case. Would be nice to know how the original looked like.  
    • Depending on your location,  Esslingers,   Jules borel,   Timesavers (USA)      A.G.Thomas, welwynwatchparts.co.uk,      obsoletewatchandclockparts.com in the UK.  a few to have a look at
    • Welcome to the forum,  its addictive.
    • Hi I have just test loaded the timezone PDFs both worked ok   are you using Adobe reader
×
×
  • Create New...