Jump to content
  • Similar Content

    • By daveincarthage
      Got a ladies Omega De Ville in an auction lot today. My limit for repairs to this point has been installing batteries. The watch runs but runs several hours fast. 
      I know there are a few reasons it could be running fast. I don't have a degausser but suspect it could be magnetized. 
      What are some other things I should consider or questions I should ask if I take it in for repair?
      Also, do you know if there was originally a plastic retaining ring to secure the movement in the case? There was none when I opened the back.
       
      Thanks in advance!
       
       

    • By jakobvinkas
      Hello!
      Not sure if this is the right place for my question since I do not intend to do the repair myself. However I am wondering if anyone knows an approximate price of a tachymeter for the Omega 3520.50 day-date (tripple date).
      If anyone has any idea what a insert and the "repair" would cost at a watch shop, please let me know.
      Thanks in advance.
      Jakob

    • By east3rn
      Hello. 
      I am about to work on a Omega ladies automatic watch.
      I found out that the axis of the rotor is out of place and shakes up and down.
      What could be done in this situation?
      Thanks!

    • By DouglasSkinner
      I have an old Waltham pocket watch movement which is missing the impulse pin (roller jewel).  I have a limited number of actual jewels and since this is just a practice movement I thought I'd try to make one out of brass.  I've seen this several times in old pieces--usually a very sloppy job.  So I got some brass stock of the same diameter as the "D" in the roller table, filed it and burnished it to a high gloss.  Then I took a small, very fine diamond file and filed it half flat to form the "D"  I then polished the face using progressively finer sandpaper on a steel block.  This works fine--so far!  Problem is separation of the piece from the stock.  Again I used a small cutting file to do this but it doesn't leave the end very pretty.  So what I've done so far is to fit the good end into the roller table.  I then plan to shellac it in place and see if I can very carefully adjust the length and clean up the end.  Has anyone done this before?  Any suggestions as to how best to do it?  
  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Big thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    • Ok this movement is highly complex and it is not recommended for the novice, but then again when i started my first movement was a Seiko 6139 chrono and the watch is still running in my box but i had a couple donor parts movements. So if your going to undergo this endeavor you should try and get a parts movement which may be hard to find and also check out the link below. As far as cleaning goes an ultrasonic is not generally needed to do a good cleaning. Some distilled water with detergent nylon brushes and peg wood will suffice, you can rinse in 99% alcohol but make sure you DO NOT use alcohol on the pallet and balance wheel. You can get a decent ultrasonic for under $100 harbor freight has a nice one for $60 if you are in the USA. In that case you can use naphtha or Ronsonol lighter fluid. You can also do a naphtha soak prior to hand cleaning as well in order to attack dried up old oils. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pierce-Cal-134-Chronograph-How-to-PDF-Book/372688650391?hash=item56c5f98097:g:R2YAAOSwRSddASsX
    • Buy some scrap  movements  from Latvia  or Ukraine. 
    • The Google of everything has your answer.
×
×
  • Create New...