Jump to content
  • ×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

      Only 75 emoji are allowed.

    ×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

    ×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

    ×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

    • By daveincarthage
      Got a ladies Omega De Ville in an auction lot today. My limit for repairs to this point has been installing batteries. The watch runs but runs several hours fast. 
      I know there are a few reasons it could be running fast. I don't have a degausser but suspect it could be magnetized. 
      What are some other things I should consider or questions I should ask if I take it in for repair?
      Also, do you know if there was originally a plastic retaining ring to secure the movement in the case? There was none when I opened the back.
       
      Thanks in advance!
       
       

    • By jakobvinkas
      Hello!
      Not sure if this is the right place for my question since I do not intend to do the repair myself. However I am wondering if anyone knows an approximate price of a tachymeter for the Omega 3520.50 day-date (tripple date).
      If anyone has any idea what a insert and the "repair" would cost at a watch shop, please let me know.
      Thanks in advance.
      Jakob

    • By east3rn
      Hello. 
      I am about to work on a Omega ladies automatic watch.
      I found out that the axis of the rotor is out of place and shakes up and down.
      What could be done in this situation?
      Thanks!

    • By DouglasSkinner
      I have an old Waltham pocket watch movement which is missing the impulse pin (roller jewel).  I have a limited number of actual jewels and since this is just a practice movement I thought I'd try to make one out of brass.  I've seen this several times in old pieces--usually a very sloppy job.  So I got some brass stock of the same diameter as the "D" in the roller table, filed it and burnished it to a high gloss.  Then I took a small, very fine diamond file and filed it half flat to form the "D"  I then polished the face using progressively finer sandpaper on a steel block.  This works fine--so far!  Problem is separation of the piece from the stock.  Again I used a small cutting file to do this but it doesn't leave the end very pretty.  So what I've done so far is to fit the good end into the roller table.  I then plan to shellac it in place and see if I can very carefully adjust the length and clean up the end.  Has anyone done this before?  Any suggestions as to how best to do it?  
  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi John, Welcome to the forum.  I would bench time the watch in face down FD and face up FU positions. Top and side view close ups of balance assembly helps.  
    • Note, the rotor does have the inscribing on it, the picture just has glare the and the writing did not show up. The rest of the movement seems identical aside from the lower plate.
    • Hello everyone,  I'm a novice in watch repair excited to have resources like this forum available to me! The idea of watch repair all started when I dropped my Seiko SKX009 and realized it was no longer keeping acceptable time. I have tinkered with machines all my life and just received my BS in mechanical engineering, so naturally I wanted to know how everything in my watch worked. I started researching about watches and eventually came to the conclusion that the balance staff pivots are likely broken, but in either cases I could see the balance wheel wobbling. Fast forward to now, I ordered a Seiko 7s26A movement from eBay and want to replace the broken 7s26B with the 7s26A, and the 7s26B can become a practice movement for me. My issue now is that the movement from ebay looks mostly legit, but has a sign that it may be fake or using some non genuine parts. Anyone have experience with the legitimacy of eBay stand alone movements? The issue is with the lower plate. It seems that all pictures online show the words "SEIKO" on the lower plate next to and below the balance wheel. My movement does not have the words SEIKO on the lower plate at all. It is also a twenty year old movement which raises concerns on the oil and grease, the eBay seller said that they sonically cleaned it and oiled it though. Thanks everyone, John
    • Thanks again that's really useful to know going forward. I've looked through the GR book and found the mainspring for my watch. Where would I actually source one from? Either genuine or generic?
    • Slotted oak.    Slotted poplar
×
×
  • Create New...