Hey everyone, I cant find out how to get this drown off and I've tried everything. The Miyota JS25 movement says PUSH and points to a hole which I've learned means this is where you press to reease the crown but I still can't get the crown out no matter which position the crown is in. I first tried with the crown all the way out then with it halfway in, then all the way in and haven't been able to get it out, please help.
I am about to work on a vintage citizen watch.
I removed the movement from the case but I am stuck on removing the automatic rotor..
It seems that my screwdrivers won't do the job..
Any advice would be helpful thank you.
I wish I had more projects to report on but things have really bogged down lately as I continue to bite of more than I can chew. I'm in the middle of three long term projects (the Favre Leuba Bivouac going on year three) and am running short of workbench space. I'm in the middle of changing out the engine in my wife's Mini Cooper too (that's another story but if you own a Mini- be sure and replace the timing chain guides!) and that has really eaten into my "fun time".
I thought I'd bring this one to the board for comments before I'm underwater- it's an old Gallet from the 60's. Do you think it can be salvaged?
We clearly have some water damaged however, the seconds hand will move if the crown is given a little pressure.
Water entered in through the chronograph buttons and the pendant tube. I haven't tried depressing the buttons- I think that would just lead to bits snapping and rust moving about.
I'll need a new stem for sure...
The dial actually looks quite good.
I wonder what it looks like underneath though...
It's not terrible, but it's not great either. Most of the rust damage is concentrated in the keyless works.
There's a bit of damage to the hour recording mechanism...
That's as far as I've gotten thus far. The screw for the Operating Lever is rusted tight and is now being treated with a bit of penetrating oil. Once removed I can pull the second pusher button out and remove the movement from the case. I'll know the full extent of the damage once it's in a pile of bits and pieces.
This is an Excelsior Park EP40-68 movement. I've wanted to work on one of these for quite a while but couldn't afford a proper working piece. Excelsior Park parts are difficult to source though so I may not be able to bring this one back to life.
Hi all, I'm new here, but have been watching the videos on YouTube for a while now, and used them to educate myself on the nature of mechanical watches. Thanks for the great videos Mark! You helped take the mystery and fear out of these works of art.
I have a Rotary Monza I am fixing up. I disassembled the barrel and removed and cleaned the mainspring. I secured a copy of the parts list and it shows that as well as the mainspring, there is also a Brake Spring (part 775 on the picture). What is it, and do I really need it? Certainly Cousins does not sell it. I googled AS 1902 brake spring and ONE result came up of a Russian watch forum discussing this item. Apparently it is thicker than a normal spring and it seems to have some sort of bent over feature on it. Can I just make one using the old mainspring? If so, how long should it be? Is it really necessary?
ROTARY Monza AS 1902.pdf
Update I discovered the setting lever when crown is pulled all the way out does not engage because (see picture below) the post on my timing lever is gone so the lever was not secured at axis point which limited the range in which the lever could full extend. I ordered a new one should be here in a week. I will keep you updated, what I think happened is someone pushed the setting lever post to allow stem to insert or remove and they pushed it to hard and broke it.
There is a Jasco made Naphta sold in hw home improvement stores in the US. It's described as being the thinner for varnish and enamel. It also says that it cleans greasy, waxy, oily surfaces and machine parts. Would this be safe to use on watch parts including balance complete?