Jump to content

What did I do wrong with these keyless works?


Recommended Posts

Hello again! from the Mockba bench! For those of you who haven't seen my previous posts, this is a 1950s Mockba watch made in the First Moscow Watch Factory. It's my first build, and I'm really excited that I've made it this far, but the keyless works appear to be an impasse. I would greatly appreciate your help!

I've assembled the keyless works, as seen in the attached pictures, but I cannot push the crown or pull it out at all.

 

Here's some details on what I did to assemble the keyless works:

 

1. Pushed in the crown all the way

2. Put the clutch lever in the groove of the clutch

3. Pushed the clutch outwards as far as it can, which also moved the clutch lever and the set lever

4. Wedged the lever spring against the clutch lever so it stores potential energy

5. Screwed down the cover plate, ensuring that the little peg sticking down from the arm of the cover plate is pressed against one of the notches (which I assume is for this purpose) of the set lever

 

Any idea why the whole thing seems to be firmly affixed, but so much that the crown cannot be pulled out at all? Thank you!

M2JVJiNMScK+UQidZKC+UA_thumb_13f9.jpg

+s+BvVe0TtadcaWRVeavqw_thumb_13fa.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I haven't worked with this  ROEDA Watch movement but I Think you have to lift the detent spring to the other side of the pin on the setting lever.
I assume there also is somekind of spring too underneath the setting bridge which pushes on the yoke forward.

POBEDA.png

Edited by HSL
  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

52 minutes ago, HSL said:

I haven't worked with this  ROEDA Watch movement but I Think you have to lift the detent spring to the other side of the pin on the setting lever.
I assume there also is somekind of spring too underneath the setting bridge which pushes on the yoke forward. 

POBEDA.png

Yes, there is a spring that is pushing on the yoke lever, and I believe it has been placed properly.

 

I'm sorry, I didn't quite understand the part about the pin and the setting lever. Does this mean I have to screw down the cover plate when the crown is pulled out, so that the setting lever is in a different position?

Edited by DoctoralHermit
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don’t see any sign of any oil or grease. It just might be its hard to set because of lack of lube. One other thing, check you have screwed in the correct length screws, if you have put in the wrong screw it could be fouling the setting lever. Have you oiled the cannon pinion? if not you might strip the teeth of the wheels when it comes to setting the hands.  

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I really wasn't sure what to lubricate, so I lubricated the crown a bit, along with the point where each wheel contacts the pivot. Are there other places I should lubricate?

Also, to be more specific, I'm unable to pull the crown out at all, it's not necessarily winding that is the issue. Could this be affected by a lack of lubrication as well?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, oldhippy said:

I don’t see any sign of any oil or grease. It just might be its hard to set because of lack of lube. One other thing, check you have screwed in the correct length screws, if you have put in the wrong screw it could be fouling the setting lever. Have you oiled the cannon pinion? if not you might strip the teeth of the wheels when it comes to setting the hands.  

Also, I am quite certain that I have put in the correct length screws... I recorded screw length on disassembly. The one that goes through the eyelet on the setting lever is a distinct screw, as I believe it's the screw that you use to release the crown from the movement.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...

 

I finally took on this project again! Thank you all for your excellent advice so far. This has been my first time dissembling and assembling a watch, and it has been a great learning experience for me.

I got the keyless works assembled in what I think is a somewhat correct way. Then the following happened:

  • I pulled out the crown and pushed it back in with no apparent problems.
  • I wound the watch fully.
  • The watch was not beating.
  • I pulled out the crown, at which point the center wheel "unspooled" rapidly, expelling all the energy.
  • I pushed the crown back in and attempted to wind it, but the crown would now not turn in the winding direction.

Any idea what happened? What I should do next?

Also, for the sake of creating a database of movement photographs (as was mentioned by a user above), I've attached a photograph of (what I believe to be) the correct assembly for the keyless works.

IMG_2131.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, DoctoralHermit said:
  • I pulled out the crown, at which point the center wheel "unspooled" rapidly, expelling all the energy

Pallet fork was not fitted correctly. That is a very crucial step which must always be followed by verification. Inspect it very carefully, if lucky it will be undamaged.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, jdm said:

Pallet fork was not fitted correctly. That is a very crucial step which must always be followed by verification. Inspect it very carefully, if lucky it will be undamaged.

Excellent, thank you! Fortunately I have two other identical ones if I did break this one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • The entry jewel's not as bad but seems still too much lock. I do epilame the escape wheel and pallet jewels, then run dry for about 15 minutes, then put 9415 in exit jewel very little at a time and check with backlight how the oil's distributed.  Another question is about capped escape wheels. Should I somehow wear the epilame off the pivots before installing the wheel? I normally let the escape wheel run dry for that said 15 minutes when there's no cap jewel.
    • Sometimes there's a certain place under the bezel where the case knife is supposed to be placed. In this borrowed pic there's a small crack at 3 o'clock. 
    • Hi my fellow forum addicts, I'm writing this as I seem to have a hole in my knowledge (probably one of many!) I seem to have a horrible time removing bezels from watches. I am talking about the rotating type on sports/diving watches. I see many videos where the guy on screen barely inserts the case knife under the bezel and with no effort it pops off easily, then at the end it clicks back into place by hand with no effort. I am sure that part of this is due to skillful video editing, but I seem to wrestle with them, I have tried case knives and  even when using the tool below, I tighten it up in several positions and nothing happens. On a many occasions I have even warped the bezel in my attempts to remove it. Similarly, I have issues replacing bezels after cleaning etc. and often they have to be replaced using a press tool and inevitably are far too tight and will not rotate or loose to the point where they fall off or loose their click (perhaps due to micro warping when I tried to remove??). It is now to the point where I am actually avoiding watches with bezels as my success rate with them is terrible......please help!! In short I am asking: What am I doing wrong? What is the best method for removing bezels - how do you do it? What is the best method for replacing bezels - how do you do it? Any tips or tricks? Thanks  
    • Amplitude still seems low, but I'm going to let it run in a bit and revisit. Meanwhile, got the first layer of the calendar works together and made sure the date ring snaps to both in quickset and regular setting. The mechanism is pretty cool, so I took a video.  
    • This is the part that need replaced if anyone can point me in the right direction. 
×
×
  • Create New...