Jump to content

Balance assembly

PeterS

By PeterS
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted

It's more difficult with the balance in place.

You could try tapping an hole on a small alloy block and use a suitable screw to keep the cock in place, with the balance up. Then you let the stud in the hole and set its screw. 

Don't forget that you have to loosen the screw before adjusting, to check that the hairspring is horizontal or even let it its own natural position for best consistency across positions. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

Posted
Posted

I typically lay the balance cock down upside down on a mat and then take the balance, hairspring side down, and visually align the stud with the hole and slowly lower it. Then I use a very small screwdriver bit Yellow and tap the stud into the hole from the side. I usually have the regulator arms very close to the stud, but I just watched a pro move the regulator to the opposite side (far from the stud) leaving enough slack to simply lift the hairspring into the regulator arms; while the stud is screwed into the balance cock.

Not always an easy job and takes a lot of experience to get good at it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted
9 hours ago, jdrichard said:

Not always an easy job and takes a lot of experience to get good at it.

Yes. My suggestion to hold the cock with a screw was made to make it easier for a beginner, and avoid the risk of inadvertently touching the hairspring. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

Posted
Posted

I  turn the boot by 90 degrees, loosen stud screw, lay the cock on its back ,balance side up, on cardboard.  *** Insert a needle pin through the cock screw hole to secure the cock on cardboard***  . Lower the complete balance to drop balance pivot into the jewel hole, get the HS inside regulator pins and the stud in the holder hole.

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

Posted
Posted
Yes. My suggestion to hold the cock with a screw was made to make it easier for a beginner, and avoid the risk of inadvertently touching the hairspring. 

Good suggestion. I have even held the balance cock in a soft vice at an angle. Very risky.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

Posted
Posted
I  turn the boot by 90 degrees, loosen stud screw, lay the cock on its back ,balance side up, on cardboard.  *** Insert a needle pin through the cock screw hole to secure the cock on cardboard***  . Lower the complete balance to drop balance pivot into the jewel hole, get the HS inside regulator pins and the stud in the holder hole.
 

Pretty much the same technique I use.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Link to comment
Share on other sites
PeterS WRT Addict

PeterS

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thank you guys, it’s in!
I didn’t get to see your messages and carried on fighting with it until I got it in. I held it at an angle following Mark’s video about fitting a new jewel (tightening the stud screw is what was causing me a headache). I wasn’t entirely comfortable doing it and next time I’ll most likely secure the balance with a pin through the cock screw hole to stop it moving around.

He makes it look easy! 7:55

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

Posted
Posted
10 minutes ago, PeterS said:

Thank you guys, it’s in!
I didn’t get to see your messages and carried on fighting with it until I got it in. I held it at an angle following Mark’s video about fitting a new jewel (tightening the stud screw is what was causing me a headache). I wasn’t entirely comfortable doing it and next time I’ll most likely secure the balance with a pin through the cock screw hole to stop it moving around.

He makes it look easy! 7:55

 

 

True Mark dose make it look easy, has mastered it.

One advantage of pining down the cock, is the cardboard, thence, nearly the whole bench is to move along with the cock for a mishap. Large cardboard preferably taped onto the bench. Best wishes 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • ManSkirtBrew
      1972 Bulova President "E" Sea King 11ACACB movement

      By ManSkirtBrew · Posted

      Unfortunately I'm not that lucky. I started on the train side and after I noticed the binding I pulled everything out except the driving wheel to rule everything else out. It still binds. I'm going to double check that the pinion is fully seated on the staff first, then if no joy I'll push the bridge jewel up a fraction of a mm. Fingers crossed!
    • Waggy
      Rado rotor removal

      By Waggy · Posted

      Happy to have helped, great way to start the day with a win! 🥳
    • doober
      Rado rotor removal

      By doober · Posted

      Thank you for the advise!! It worked. The setting screw was a lock/unlock to remove the rotor. 
    • GuyMontag
      1972 Bulova President "E" Sea King 11ACACB movement

      By GuyMontag · Posted

      I have that French tech sheet too, it is a little different than the English one (eg, it doesn't have the auto works diagram). BTW, it looks like you are looking up the case number in the 1979 ABC supplement. The 1974 ABC catalog does have the 3093 case. As you determined it takes the 1222-5 crystal.  When I serviced my President 'A' (which also takes that crystal), I was able to fit a 29.8 crystal from my DPA crystal assortment. Those are, in my opinion, a great deal. The assortment comes with 10 sizes each from 27.8mm to 32.4mm in 0.2 increments. I pretty much use them for any non-armored crystal that takes a high dome crystal. I think they no longer make them but Cousins has still has some in stock but when I bought them they were around $40 for the set and now they are around $100. Still, at 40 cents a crystal it's still a good deal. For the large driving wheel, I remember I once assembled the keyless/motion works first and when I placed the large driving wheel it was interfering with the setting wheel on the dial side as the teeth were not fully meshing and it wouldn't fully seat. If that isn't the issue I got nothing and am looking forward to see how you solve it 🙂
    • Waggy
      Rado rotor removal

      By Waggy · Posted

      Not sure, but just looking at it, it seems like the screw on the right may be a fake? The one on the left may not be a screw in the regular sense at all, rather a 2 position device, I think you need to point the slot towards either of the 2 dots and one will secure and one will open. Like I said this is just my best guess looking at the pictures.
×
×
  • Create New...