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    • By Colditz
      I have purchased a GUB09207211 hairspring from Cousins watch parts and I am not sure how to attached it to the anchor on the balance cock. Is there a tool I should use or is there a method that I can employ. Any help is appreciated Thanks.
       

    • By mineglobus03
      Hi everyone, I have some problems with a manual winding watch. It needs some work but I would try to do it myself. The watch appears fully wound but it doesn't work. Which is the problem? Thank you in advance
      Alessandro
    • By canthus
      I work a lot on small caliber (ladies watch size) movements but still have mishaps with the balance hairspring.  These hairsprings are very fragile and easily bent and removing/replacing the balance assembly seems to be my problem.  I would like any comments on the risks of deforming the hairspring by allowing the wheel to dangle during handling.  I would also like to know if the position of the regulator arm/pins has any effect re risk of deforming the spring, should it be close to the stud or as far a possible from the stud, I normally leave it where I find it so the timing is close to what it was before dis-assembly.  Any advice on techniques etc will be much appreciated.
    • By rduckwor
      I am correcting a deformed hairspring and need to set the curve for the regulator pins.  De Carle mentions using curve-forming tweezers, which I cannot yet find.  What are the alternate practices for forming this curved portion of the over curve?
      Thanks,
       
      RMD
    • By tmilligan
      Question for those who work on Vintage Timex watches:
      I've restored several Timex pieces from the late '60s to the late '70s.  The technique I learned (from Internet posts and tutorials) say to simply loosen the dial-side balance pivot by unscrewing it 1/2 turn prior to cleaning the entire movement in an ultrasonic cleaner.  This method contradicts the official Timex service manuals, which state that the balance should be removed, cleaned separately and reinstalled.  Thus preventing the hairspring form being damaged in the ultrasonic cleaner.
      My experience is this: 
      Leaving the balance in place (slightly loosened) is much easier and will work on the standard movements used in the '70s (M24/25, M32/33, M104, etc.) Attempting the same method on movements from the '50s and '60s (M22, M29, etc) will result in a kinked hairspring that is damn near impossible to un-kink.  So my question is this:
      What do you experienced Timex restoration experts recommend?  Leave the balance/hairspring in the movement for cleaning, or take it out to soak in a separate jar?
      Is the potential for hairspring damage greater when removing/reinstalling the balance - in comparison to leaving it in place?
      I've messed up a couple of vintage movements that I really wish I hadn't.   I don't want to make those mistakes again.
      Thanks for any insights!
        -Todd
       
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    • Hmm, that's what was in there? What's the movement diameter? 0.12 is still pretty strong for anything I'd call a "ladies" movement. For example a Peseux 7001, at 10.5"' takes a 0.11 or 0.12 depending where you look, but at 21,600 does need a bit more power. A typical 10"' LeCoultre from the same period as your patek takes a 0.10 or sometimes even thinner. These are what would be considered smaller mens movements.   On edit- Ah, ok, you actually have a barrel with a 9mm inside diameter? Ok that's not what would typically be called a ladies movement even if in a ladies watch. The one you just posted coud work but it's anyone's guess if the T from a Waltham spring lines up.    
    • Hello,   I found a code   Any opinion, do you think it will work? Can I find this somewhere? 10x TibiV sr
    • Hello again, Nickelsilver was very right and thank you Today I bought a micrometer  Results: 1,12 -0,12 - 280 - 9 Has a hole and at the end it has  tong  Thank you again    BR Tibi V sr
    • The standard is with the roller centered with the arms, it the most aesthetically pleasing, also means the arms are not obscuring the fork when setting up the escapement, and makes visually checking the amplitude easy. As the roller is not poised, it does have an effect on the balance poise. So balances are always poised with the roller in place. For fun, reverse the position of roller and hairspring 180 degrees on a watch with a good rate in the vertical positions. It goes way out. On 3 arm balances it can really be anywhere. If in doubt after replacing a staff, bet on placing the roller jewel opposite where metal was removed to poise the balance.
    • To highlight that sequence of events I wrote "makes the pallet move", meaning "initiates the movement of the pallet". Of course the pallet also transmits significant power to the impulse jewel and certain parameters can be optimized for a nicely "self starting" mov't, but all that I've omitted for the simplicity of discussion. I  have been searching on (digital) old texts about the importance of this, but haven't found anything so far.  Intuitively it seems to me that with a perfectly poised balance there should be no difference in performances no matter how they sit, but likely there something that escapes me? Not to say that it would be acceptable for a factory or repairer to assemble in a inconsistent manner, and before considering that three and four spokes balances also exist.
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