I work a lot on small caliber (ladies watch size) movements but still have mishaps with the balance hairspring. These hairsprings are very fragile and easily bent and removing/replacing the balance assembly seems to be my problem. I would like any comments on the risks of deforming the hairspring by allowing the wheel to dangle during handling. I would also like to know if the position of the regulator arm/pins has any effect re risk of deforming the spring, should it be close to the stud or as far a possible from the stud, I normally leave it where I find it so the timing is close to what it was before dis-assembly. Any advice on techniques etc will be much appreciated.
I am correcting a deformed hairspring and need to set the curve for the regulator pins. De Carle mentions using curve-forming tweezers, which I cannot yet find. What are the alternate practices for forming this curved portion of the over curve?
Question for those who work on Vintage Timex watches:
I've restored several Timex pieces from the late '60s to the late '70s. The technique I learned (from Internet posts and tutorials) say to simply loosen the dial-side balance pivot by unscrewing it 1/2 turn prior to cleaning the entire movement in an ultrasonic cleaner. This method contradicts the official Timex service manuals, which state that the balance should be removed, cleaned separately and reinstalled. Thus preventing the hairspring form being damaged in the ultrasonic cleaner.
My experience is this:
Leaving the balance in place (slightly loosened) is much easier and will work on the standard movements used in the '70s (M24/25, M32/33, M104, etc.)
Attempting the same method on movements from the '50s and '60s (M22, M29, etc) will result in a kinked hairspring that is damn near impossible to un-kink.
So my question is this:
What do you experienced Timex restoration experts recommend? Leave the balance/hairspring in the movement for cleaning, or take it out to soak in a separate jar?
Is the potential for hairspring damage greater when removing/reinstalling the balance - in comparison to leaving it in place?
I've messed up a couple of vintage movements that I really wish I hadn't. I don't want to make those mistakes again.
Thanks for any insights!
I recently had the pleasure of finding a damaged hairspring needing care. My first! It’s an inexpensive orient watch, gaining 20 minutes a day. I am taking Mark’s fault finding course, and have other inexpensive hairsprings to practise with. I also got some vintage tools I’d love to use. Until now for me levellers were only the Oliver Cromwell people, but ebay never ceases to surprise...
I could pass the first stages of correcting the coil, with two tweezers. But could not find a use for the vintage tools. Could you help me to figure it out?
Picture 1 is the bent hairspring
picture 2 and 3 the box of tas levellers
picture 4 is the hairspring suffering under my tweezers now
picture 5 shows the tip of the tools
picture 6: from De Carle. Would this be the purpose of the levellers? The overcoil?
Is there a 'golden rule' relating to relocating a hairspring onto a balance staff with regards to getting zero beat error after it has been removed for attention. I usually take pics or use marker pen but sometime forget!
as i said "if manufacturer calls for it" either way what oils are they suggesting to use with it, and again as i said 3x i find it acceptable to use in conjunction with 9010. I have never used it with 9415, never had any issues. It was designed to be used without epilame, regardless of this not being the issue with this particular movement you still stated quote "that you oil every 3rd tooth of the escape wheel" so it could have been an issue with your previous unsuccessful attempts since it could be you are over oiling regardless of your methods, which is why i mentioned it. again never heard of oiling the escape wheel and not the pallets. not saying its wrong just never heard of it, like ever. The way i was taught by a man who is the only omega certified watch repairer in canada BTW is you apply one drop on the exit and entry stones, run the escape for 10 revolutions then ad another drop on each stone with another 10 revolutions until oil has spread evenly on all teeth, do this using 9010 with epilame, or 9415.
I was taught by the same man that as you move the pallet fork, and the escape wheel tooth starts to come across the impulse surface of the pallet fork jewel, you will see a small wedge of oil form in the angle between the tooth and the jewel. If that forms when the leading edge of the tooth is about 1/2 way across the surface of the jewel, that is the right amount of oil. If it forms earlier than that, it’s probably too much, and if it only forms very late as it moves across, that’s probably too little. Its not just a matter of looking at the escape under a microscope with no action.
and as you stated here it says nothing about not being successful with only chinese clones, i will re-quote with the words "literally every watch"
I guess you know more than me so ill just see my way out of this discussion