I have purchased a GUB09207211 hairspring from Cousins watch parts and I am not sure how to attached it to the anchor on the balance cock. Is there a tool I should use or is there a method that I can employ. Any help is appreciated Thanks.
Hi everyone, I have some problems with a manual winding watch. It needs some work but I would try to do it myself. The watch appears fully wound but it doesn't work. Which is the problem? Thank you in advance
I work a lot on small caliber (ladies watch size) movements but still have mishaps with the balance hairspring. These hairsprings are very fragile and easily bent and removing/replacing the balance assembly seems to be my problem. I would like any comments on the risks of deforming the hairspring by allowing the wheel to dangle during handling. I would also like to know if the position of the regulator arm/pins has any effect re risk of deforming the spring, should it be close to the stud or as far a possible from the stud, I normally leave it where I find it so the timing is close to what it was before dis-assembly. Any advice on techniques etc will be much appreciated.
I am correcting a deformed hairspring and need to set the curve for the regulator pins. De Carle mentions using curve-forming tweezers, which I cannot yet find. What are the alternate practices for forming this curved portion of the over curve?
Question for those who work on Vintage Timex watches:
I've restored several Timex pieces from the late '60s to the late '70s. The technique I learned (from Internet posts and tutorials) say to simply loosen the dial-side balance pivot by unscrewing it 1/2 turn prior to cleaning the entire movement in an ultrasonic cleaner. This method contradicts the official Timex service manuals, which state that the balance should be removed, cleaned separately and reinstalled. Thus preventing the hairspring form being damaged in the ultrasonic cleaner.
My experience is this:
Leaving the balance in place (slightly loosened) is much easier and will work on the standard movements used in the '70s (M24/25, M32/33, M104, etc.)
Attempting the same method on movements from the '50s and '60s (M22, M29, etc) will result in a kinked hairspring that is damn near impossible to un-kink.
So my question is this:
What do you experienced Timex restoration experts recommend? Leave the balance/hairspring in the movement for cleaning, or take it out to soak in a separate jar?
Is the potential for hairspring damage greater when removing/reinstalling the balance - in comparison to leaving it in place?
I've messed up a couple of vintage movements that I really wish I hadn't. I don't want to make those mistakes again.
Thanks for any insights!
Rub-in jewels have integrated end stone, out of obsession I am always concerned if I have managed to get enough oil on its end stone, automatic oiler seem assuring to have dispensed that certain amount of oil there, one can double the amount by pumping twice and the exactness of the amount is a nice control to have.
In a sense, same story with screw on end stones, you can just screw the end stone on and then oil. Much neater outcome since end stone plate/ holder is sure to move when you try to place it on and oil gets spread around by the old method.
I use old accupuncture needles as oiler.
I wouldn't follow the Seiko guide too closely. There's the obviously questionable suggestion that you oil the pallet pivots, and there's the use of "S-6" in parts of the train. That's a grease, and I know of no other manufacturer that call for the use of grease in any part of the train in any caliber this size. I would improvise and use HP1300 there like any other automatic device. I would however use some grease on pawl and ratchet teeth on the second reduction wheel. I can see that wearing down over time without a heavier lubricant.
I understand your teacher's position, i think it's not a strictly necessary tool. What the automatic can't replace is the applicator which is a fine round pin for jewels where is difficult or not practical to separate the cap jewel, e.g. the two small diashock on Seiko, or rubbed in.
I got a hunch you will see high amplitute if you let it run overnight again and that it is a low quality new movement, furthurmore, TG would show parrallel graphs for retests.
Cost free to check.
Needless to say, enhance amplitute is generally obtainable through suitable lubrication of the escapement, by suitable I mean to include "amount" of the lubricant.