Jump to content

Watch Makes Scrapping Sound Crown Up


Recommended Posts

I just finished repairing an old 7J Waltham for a friend. Got it going well face up, face down, crown down: but scraping sound and slows down and sometimes stops crown up. Is this the impulse jewel closed to the opening back of the palate fork or could it be the hair spring. This is a very cheap watch so I don’t want to spend to much more time. Already replaced the mainspring and cleaned it up significantly. And I made a bow out of a coat hanger wire and a lot of pounding.67234001858654b499674c8b1808ad55.jpga54ecfef068a30020dbca5707249527c.jpg71d3d62d4931fd54018ff89c74712060.jpg3390c897d7ca9e21336ddfcdbbfda278.jpg

 

Help.6f9d8a2d977808ea4b4bdc9eb5907b84.jpg02ad2caaa7aaed6eafa33dbd3a8e3983.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I too, suspect the roller and guard pin rubing, since excess side shake reduces the distance between the two in dial up position. 
 
 
 

Back home, will check this out tomorrow. Bugs me as it took a lot of work to get this one working again...needs to fully work.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

And this is the reason I stopped doing favours for people and their old watches, I had one not so long ago that I eventually spent about 6 weeks working on it, spent about £100 trying to source parts ( old cylinder movement ) and in the end only got it semi working, very frustrating and added pressure to ones life. 

But nice job done there mate, I’ll jump on the side shake train of thought and new jewel required.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And this is the reason I stopped doing favours for people and their old watches, I had one not so long ago that I eventually spent about 6 weeks working on it, spent about £100 trying to source parts ( old cylinder movement ) and in the end only got it semi working, very frustrating and added pressure to ones life. 
But nice job done there mate, I’ll jump on the side shake train of thought and new jewel required.

Turned out the impulse jewel shellac was completely gone on the roller table. Now works, however, can't get it to run fast enough Ahhhhhhhhhh!

Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
    • Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
    • this is something I've never quite understood about the some of the Swiss companies. In 1957 Omega was using 9010 for the keyless parts with epilam. there's been a slow migration towards using heavier lubrication's but still typically oils and epilam to keep them in place. When it seems like 9504 works so much better.  
    • OK, welcome in the world of alarm clocks... I guess the 4th wheel is dished because it is from another movement. If it was not dishet, then it would not mesh with the pinion of the escape wheel, am I right? The marks of wear on the 4th wheel pinion doesn't corespond to the 3th wheel table position, at list this is what i see on the picts. Calculating the rate is easy - there is a formula - BR = T2 x T3 x T4 x T5 x 2 /(P3 x P4 x P5) where T2 - T5 are the counts of the teeth of the wheels tables, and P3 - P5 are the counts of the pinion leaves. Vibrating the balance is easy - grasp for the hairspring where it should stay in the regulator with tweasers, let the balance hang on the hairspring while the downside staff tip rests on glass surface. Then make the balance oscillate and use timer to measure the time for let say 50 oscillations, or count the oscillations for let say 30 seconds. You must do the free oscillations test to check the balance staff tips and the cone cup bearings for wear. This kind of staffs wear and need resharpening to restore the normal function of the balance.
    • Glue a nut to the barrel lid, insert a bolt, pull, disolve the glue.  Maybe someone will have a better answer. 
×
×
  • Create New...