I actually have a couple problems I could use some help with. I’ll start with the more serious one I guess. I don’t have any trouble getting the back off my watches or changing the battery, but every time I use my tool to snap the back back on, something happens to the crown pin. It just lets go and comes out. I thought it was a strange occurrence the first time but I tried another one this week and got the same results. I’ve done this same thing on hundreds of other watches of different types and brands but never ran into this problem before. Can someone please help me figure out what I’m doing wrong?
Also, a couple of my watches don’t seem to be able to adjust to my teeny tiny wrist size. In my Monarch, the majority of the links don’t have holes to remove the pins. Is there any other way to remove a couple links. Any advice would be appreciated immensely!!!
The turning ceramic Bezel from my tag heuer Aquaracer calibre 5 has come off. Could anyone advise what I would be looking at for a price wise for a replacement Bezel? Just want to get a feel before I take it in to the shop. Before and after photos below.
Hi, new to repairing, just getting my feet wet, so be prepared for me to use incorrect language, and have things explained like I'm 5 :)
A couple years ago, I purchased a Seiko Sportsmatic Weekdater, cal. 6619-7050.
Soon after purchase, the crown detached from the stem, and I took it in to local watchmaker for repair. It was returned in apparently good shape, but actually the problem still exists.
I'd like to learn how to fix the problem, and hopefully bring this watch back to my wrist.
It appears that the crown screws onto the stem, but that is as far as I have got.
Any assistance would be welcomed. I did find a service manual elsewhere, but I'm a bit lost as it's my first.
i was given a seiko 6309-8840 by a friend who had a problem with the crystal /gasket/bezel.i will have no problem with the crystal but the bezel does not seem to want to screw back in!any ideas please?thanks,B.
This is an early peseux 320, a fine movement jeweled pallet and true work horse, one piece stem and a front loader.
Countless brands housed one, though different grades.
I too recommend it be entrusted with experienced hands to tick for another generation.
Practice is the main thing, beyond that it's also safe to assume that every part has a purpose and will fit where it is intended (don't force anything).. this isn't always the case, particularly with 19th century watches which were rather handmade - similar screws may be found with punch marks to indicate which goes in each hole, or jewel locations, etc.. in this case the screw threads may not be identical like modern threads. On modern movements some bits like the bridge screws are pretty interchangeable, usually with a shorter screw to clear the keyless works.
If in doubt take pictures, I use my phone camera for stuff which is likely to cause some questions - usually for camera shutters but it applies to anything new to me.. and having a few pictures afterwards can be nice to look back on too. I'd recommend taking a picture of the keyless works for the first few times - occasionally I still find little springs are going to be difficult to remember to get their places correct - say if they're the same size but only have some slight difference.
Lastly there are some guides, forums, and blogs which can be helpful for gaining an insight into other peoples practices or solutions to problems.
I've managed to make some scratches with a cotton swab on my seiko 5's dial while trying to remove some dirt.
can you recommend a way to polish this dial before i make another mistake?
Thank you very much for your precious time reading this!
We live in a interesting world where quite a few people do not realize that things can be fixed. That even less people know anyone who can fix a watch. So if you make the mistake of mentioning to anyone that you can fix watches suddenly all kinds of people will have watches for you to fix.
Then of course the problem do you really want to work on your friends watches? Like for instance if you break the watch will this person be understanding and still be your friend or will they be unhappy?
My preferred thought is you should start on something like a ETA caliber 6497 or 6498 Clone off of eBay. You really do need to practice on a running watch which is why you get a new watch there really cheap off of eBay. Then you can practice taking it apart putting it back together and if it doesn't work after you put it back together because it was running in the first place you know who to blame. Typically when people start with broken watches and there's still broken they'll blame that on the watch versus may be who was playing with the watch. Then you really should stay away from pin lever watches and Timex watches as yes they can be fixed but they have their own challenges which can lead the frustrations for beginners.
Than the recommended watch I have is nice because the technical sheet available and the Swiss even have the link below the step-by-step disassembly and reassembly instructions.
I think you'll find if you really want to remove the movement the stem comes out, the two case screws and the movement goes out through the front which means you have to take the crystal off.