Jump to content
  • 0

Bezel paint reapply on a Breitling chronospace


Question

Hey guys, my name is Lorenz. I am an 18 year old electrical engineering student from Germany. 

I got this Breitling chronospace a56012.1 from my granddad and I want to repair it.

Besides a slight clicking noise while turning the crown ( someone please let me know if this is normal ) it works just fine.

My main problem is that the black color on the Bezel is worn out on some positions and I dont know where to find a paint that holds on the metal nor do I know how to paint it again.

I have worked with watches already, I disassembled a mechanical movement cleaned and oiled it again so I feel pretty confident in doing this job.

And I would also like to change out the crystal, does anyone know what size crystal I need for this watch?

Thanks in regards for any advice.

IMG_20190808_225348.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

5 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0

Lovely watch, I used to have one as well.  As for paint, I suspect enamel, probably for models, slightly thinned with thinner and a piece of very sharp peg wood.  I would carefully clean the area to be painted with solvent and allow it to flash off before trying to apply paint.  Otherwise, the paint may not adhere due to skin oils, etc.  As for crystal, no idea.  Perhaps a Breitling forum might be able to help.  The "clicking" you feel when turning the crown I believe is normal function as the display functions change.  Good Luck.


RMD

Edited by rduckwor
typo
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

Hey guys, just a short update. Thanks to rduckwor I was able to find a great paint and painted the watch bezel under the microscope.

I am very pleased with the result, it was pretty timeconsuming though... took me about 4 hours. Would definitly do it again and also recommend it to others if you feel confident in doing this kind of work.

By the way rduckwor send me a message with your PayPal email, your idea of emanel paint really helped me a lot and I would like to say thanks in some way.

If there are any questions just ask me anything. I am happy to help.

 

IMG_20190808_225348.jpg

IMG_20190813_004124.jpg

IMG_20190813_004205.jpg

IMG_20190813_004346.jpg

IMG_20190813_004607.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

beautiful job congratulations. I usually use glass paint, I suggest. this is my last example:

ps: I got a scratched lathe with sandpaper. I filled the 12-way index with phosphor and threw lacquer on it.

b575d31f70f56c31d03a502987cb3471.jpge591a085ac4c1c67e6bb8e6d8fb6d070.jpg


Before:

c412c8b0adf2789c5fb5b9820f0baccc.jpg

After:

696920cf733ff4c2ada15df26dacb052.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites


  • Similar Content

    • By agregate
      This question isn't really one of repair but more a direct question as to what the markings are on the little stickers you find on old watch and pocket watch crystals.
      I understand the 1/16 measurements are lignes, the 1/4 measurements are lunettes(?), the three digit numbers are tenths of milimeters and the number typically from 1-5 is the height of a Geneva crystal, but what do the numbers measured in fractions of 1/8 signify? I did a calculation and the conversion from mystery unit to lignes is
      lignes = (1/2) x mystery + 10
      Any ideas?


    • By BennyNoKash
      hi am not by any means any type of expert but thought this was the best place to start 
    • By Amateurwatchbreaker
      I have a watch that I am fixing up for myself. After lots of research l, I concluded my watch is a 1960s Hamilton Stormking VII. As my watch needs a new crystal I ordered one from ebay that is for a Hamilton stormking VII. When I got it in I immediately realized that it doesn't fit. The replacement seems to me about 1mm larger than the original. (I dont have a caliper). Is this even a Hamilton Stormking VII? Or did I get the right crystal but I have to modify it before it fits?



    • By Misshollypocket
      I actually have a couple problems I could use some help with. I’ll start with the more serious one I guess. I don’t have any trouble getting the back off my watches or changing the battery, but every time I use my tool to snap the back back on, something happens to the crown pin. It just lets go and comes out. I thought it was a strange occurrence the first time but I tried another one this week and got the same results. I’ve done this same thing on hundreds of other watches of different types and brands but never ran into this problem before. Can someone please help me figure out what I’m doing wrong?
      Also, a couple of my watches don’t seem to be able to adjust to my teeny tiny wrist size. In my Monarch, the majority of the links don’t have holes to remove the pins. Is there any other way to remove a couple links. Any advice would be appreciated immensely!!!
    • By JJM
      Is this a rubber 'O' ring in here? 
      Not too sure how to approach replacing this.... 
      Or do I just hit it with my chequebook? 
  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Mr. Cousins certainly states his point plainly.  And he is right.  I will be seeing what I can afford to donate to this cause.  But as Clockboy and others pointed out, we should also consider ways to raise public  awareness as to why this battle is necessary.  Monopolies are daunting and nefarious, though they can be countered by consumer awareness in many ways.  But I don't think the average watch owner knows much about ETA/Swatch.  They should though, since their wallet suffers because of them.
    • Thank you Tutor,   I can see that reduction of positional varistions is how you go about building a balance complete for regulation to precision of chrono grade, the more positions adjusted the more precise of a regulation can be achieved. The charts seem to instruct adjustments for the said reduction and unconcerned about its effect on poise in horizental positions. What did I miss or misunderstood?  TIA Joe
    • I, also, would recommend the G-S.  I work on pocket watches and am learning more about dial repair.  I believe Tudor is correct in saying that hide glue is what was originally used.  Outside of shellac and hide, there weren't very many different kinds of glues available during the time that watch was made. The residue I have encountered has the same smell, same consistency with age, and reacts to moisture in the same way as hide glue.  In most areas, hide and shellac were all there was.  I have some hide glue, but I think the G-S would be better for this repair.  And it will be less prone to weakening in situations of high humidity.
    • Again, I left it in, cleaned the plate with the lower and upper wheels in, oiled the jewel in the middle and reassembled it...although that part was not easy. Video below:) Assembly - Rolex Oyster Everest Precision 1957 https://youtu.be/7AqT-bL7wcc
    • let's look at something first I have a link to the history of  wostep. As you can see it's a school, a school that's been in business for 54 years. a school that starts out small and gets big and finally gets its own building after being in a whole bunch of locations scattered around Neuchâtel. The important thing here is in all of that time there's going to be lots of people involved. Not just the instructors in the school but the students from time to time get to escape and go to the factories that means even more exposure to people and ideas. then one of the things that keeps bothering me where did I get exposed to the tool that I have? Then I am pretty sure that if somebody said use your fingers this is the way to do it I would've remembered. Because I too went to wostep and using your fingers does not seem like the way that would've been approved at all. Not in a school that was obsessed with perfection? http://www.wostep.ch/en/history
×
×
  • Create New...