Anyone know a supplier that would have orient watch parts. In general orient doesn’t supply parts I guess and it’s been hard to find on eBay. I have an EM60 repair. The crystal was damaged and whatever damaged it burned through and burnt the inner bezel and I cannot find a bezel with the same markings. Any help would be awesome.
Hi, I’m trying to replace the crystal on this expedition. I have pulled the stem and the movement. The crystal was shattered. It seems to be a 29.5mm crystal with a 1mm depth. I don’t see a gasket. How would I apply the new crystal? Does it press without a gasket?
Thank you for any help provided!
I need some help with repairing my Emporio Armani ar-1922.
I've watched some videos on YouTube but none of them resemble the movement of this particular watch.
My first problem is removing the stem/crown. I cannot see anything which looks like it will release the stem and I don't want to poke around inside it any more for fear of creating any damage.
Any help will be much appreciated.
Hey, so I have a question. I've got an Invicta dive watch with a NH35A movement here that whenever I unthread the stem and crown as it is unthreading the date starts changing. Once its unthreaded I can change it to the 1, 2 and 3 positions and set and wind it accordingly. How can I fix this and what is causing this?
Early 60's Elgin 10K Shockmaster. I suppose one of their attempts at water proofing a watch (see the crystal and gasket in the second picture). The question is how to get the crown off (Its wobbly when pulled out to the set position and I am certain it contains a gasket) so I can remove the movement? Dis-assemble the keyless works in place so I can grab the stem and unscrew the crown?? Thanks.
Hi well done jdm a very comprehensive walk through. Anone working on the same movement would do well to read this before starting. excellent. As regards the non cleaning of clean parts screws an plastic wheels I can see where you are coming from and respect that opinion, I also see Old Hippy's point of view, being trained old school and very correct its hard to change. But as you say it works for you with no problems so therefore you do it your way. I have done it both ways and had no problems with either. Thanks again for a good and instructive walk through.
I've used enamel paint (as you'd just get from a model shop) with good results.
I suspect the lacquer you've found is the same thing ... but perhaps thinned to a consistency that makes it easier to apply.
When painting you want to do it in one stroke; don't be tempted to go back and fiddle as you'll be less likely to get a smooth finish. One coat is usually fine but if you think you need a second wait until the first is fully dried first.
Its a early Landeron possibly a Calibre 13, only way to identify for sure would be a pic of the keyless works, Eberhard in my experience from a number of years ago are a very good company to deal with if you require parts they will supply if they have them in stock, they also seem to have good factory records so if you contact them with the serial number they may be able to help.
Very much appreciated, this walk-through. It's amazing how much quicker I can work if I don't have to photograph everything! I have removed the balance cap-jewels and settings for cleaning. I'm confident I can put these back OK. There are two other cap jewels held by Diafix springs on the barrel and train-wheel bridge, for the escape wheel and third wheel. These are smaller, and look like a challenge. Before I do something I'll regret, what are your opinions?
a). Leave well alone, no need to tempt fate
b) Absolute must, if you are doing a proper job