Jump to content

A Tool For Balance Screw Adjustments


cdjswiss

Recommended Posts

I am continuing with my restoration of early IWC Cal. 64 and Cal 64T watch movements. Even after cleaning and oiling the timing is often out by more than the index lever can accomodate. Today the movement was running slow, however, the timing screws on the balance were each 3 turns unscrewed. This provided me with the necessary adjustment to increase the beat rate. But it can be a fiddly job, particularly for my unsteady hands. Here is my solution - a small clamp to hold the balance while I turn the screws with a 0.5 mm Horotec driver

:post-374-0-17502200-1419005261_thumb.jpg

The base is milled out of Delrin (Nylon), the finger clamp is from copper-beryllium shim with a thin leather lining on the balance side. The screw-down piece is made from a from a pocket watch stem and crown.

Here it is under the x20 binocular microscope with perfect vision and access to the timing screws.

post-374-0-78764000-1419005735_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just love innovation, a great solution and well illustrated. I'll file that one in the memory banks, or maybe I should write it down!

Just had a thought, should you not have removed the spring from the balance to check poise after altering the screws?

Edited by Geo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great job - I love custom tools :)

 

 

I just love innovation, a great solution and well illustrated. I'll file that one in the memory banks, or maybe I should write it down!

Just had a thought, should you not have removed the spring from the balance to check poise after altering the screws?

 

Better to dynamically poise using a timing machine IMO Geo - much more accurate as the balance spring will affect the poise again when you put it back on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Better to dynamically poise using a timing machine IMO Geo - much more accurate as the balance spring will affect the poise again when you put it back on.

Thanks for the heads up with that one. It would be a good subject for a video.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the heads up with that one. It would be a good subject for a video.

 

Yep - better results with dynamic poising.

I never use my poising tool any more - just the timing machine.

I will show you guys my method one of these days.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep - better results with dynamic poising.

I never use my poising tool any more - just the timing machine.

I will show you guys my method one of these days.

 

You did it at the end of the video

Fitting a new balance staff to a vintage 1940s cyma www military watch

But the method was shrouded in mystery. I am waiting keenly for the day!

Edited by cdjswiss
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Coming back to the adjustmnet of balance wheel timing screws. I use a screwdriver rather than a balance screw pin vice. The latter gives less feel and can, in my case, easily lead to a broken off screw head. Extracting the threaded portion from the balance wheel afterwards is tricky to say the least. Of course the pin vice is perfect for the initial fit of a new screw into a vacant hole, but then I stop and continue with the screwdriver.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Excellent work cdjswiss, us young pups learn so much here.

 

I do however have one criticism, when making specialized tools like that, you should never just make one, what ever were you thinking?!? 

 

... I mean, how am I suppose to buy one off you now? ^_^

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Excellent work cdjswiss, us young pups learn so much here.

 

I do however have one criticism, when making specialized tools like that, you should never just make one, what ever were you thinking?!? 

 

... I mean, how am I suppose to buy one off you now? ^_^

Thanks for the praise and offer. If I was a young man .... but for me time is running out and so many other watch movements to tackle!.

Edited by cdjswiss
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • as you took the mainspring out what did it look like? It's amazing how much amplitude you can get if the mainspring actually has the proper shape. last week I was doing a 12 size Hamilton and was very much surprised with the beautiful back curvature the mainspring had. Then the watch had a really nice amplitude the group would be so proud it was 350 until I dropped the lift angle down to 38 that drop the amplitude quite a bit below 300. then with the beautiful back curve it still had really nice amplitude the next day. I really wish all my mainspring's look like this as the watch had beautiful amplitude the next day. So many of the aftermarket pocketwatch Springs I see now do not have anything resembling a back curve may be a slight curve and that's about all. They still work but they just don't work as nice as a properly made spring. then Omega as all sorts of nifty technical documentation unfortunately every single corner is watermarked with where it came from who downloaded it etc. very paranoid company. On the other hand I will snip out images like from the document on recycling a mainspring barrel. for instance here's the section on what your mainspring should look like. water damaged a lot of times means rust was there rust on this watch?
    • I dont understand why a patreon membership would have limited places ??
    • Welcome to the forum, enjoy. It’s highly unlikely you will be able to purchase a new bezel look on eBay for a pulsar watch for repair to find a bezel.
    • just one little minor reminder here this isn't your normal balance wheel.  pages 17 and 18 are what you really want to be looking at. normally studs don't turn but this watch has the etachron system designed for lots of adjustment. Personally I would try to rotate the stud back to where it's supposed to be. If you're lucky you didn't actually bend it at the stud it just looks really bad as the stud has been rotated grossly out of position.. I think things will look a lot better if you put the hairspring back where it's supposed to be by rotating the stud. it's hard to tell if you actually did bend it at the stud or not we won't know until you rotate the stud back more or less where it's supposed to be. Then you want to pay attention to the manual of how to put the hairspring back in the regulator pins because yes they rotate also and they rotated specific directions otherwise bad things will happen to your hairspring. so initially you can open up the regulator as wide as it can go and don't worry about closing it until thing everything is right then you can close them a little bit
×
×
  • Create New...