-
Similar Content
-
By IOB
I have a UG Tri-Compax from the 1950s or 60s (Calibre 281): The chronograph (centre) seconds hand can’t turn past 58.5 seconds and the whole watch stops ticking/working (nothing moving/turning in the movement). However, when the reset pusher (4 o’clock) is kept pressed, it enables the seconds hand and watch to move/tick again. The reset pusher is released when the chrono seconds hand reaches 60: the watch resumes ticking and the hands move until the chrono seconds hand reaches 58.5s again. The process is repeated.
It has been noticed that if the watch is held face down then the reset pusher “procedure” doesn’t always work (i.e. the watch does not resume ticking/moving). It’s usually necessary to turn the watch over and try to press the pusher a few times in order to make the seconds hands move again.
The 30-minute sub-dial at 3 o’clock has stopped working, too.
If the chrono is not activated, then the watch seems to run properly.
What do you think is the problem?
Thanks for your insight!
-
By Usluyan
Hello, everybody.
I wanted to share my restoration stories that I have done for a long time and thrown into my archive. First I discussed the Atomic Mars 71 Brand using Valjoux 7734.
As it was seen, scratch and dial is broken. To begin with, I tried to brush the Case as Brushed and make it the first day. If it is decorated, I polished and re-painted the indexes (with acrylic paint). I usually do this in three layers so that the paint is not deleted in a short time.
I replaced the case buttons and tubes with aftermarket buttons.
Since the condition of the dial was in very poor condition, I had it re-painted. The quality is not so good. In Turkey, unfortunately, not doing the job well.
Caliber 7734 (Valjoux) is a special and robust mechanism for me. With good maintenance and lubrication, you can reduce deflection values up to 3-4 seconds per day. I added a short timelapse video about it :)
As a result, such a result came before us.
Thank you
Taskin
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKH6yTKUfpM
-
By arkobugg
Cheers mates!
Arkobugg are doing things he haven’t done before…
This movement are dead, and I need a new one, how do I do this??
Where can I find one that fit??
-
By jackie01
Hello guys,
I want to show you my lately restoration project. This time it was a Seiko 7015-8000 with blue dial. Watch came to me in very poor condition. As you can see on photos the case was scratchty, crystal was totaly tarnished with deep scratches. Everywhere was dirt, gunk and mud...yuck. Movement was running and stopping with very low amplitude. After opened the caseback I wasn't suprised - it looked like as case - dirt and signs of wear. Rotor was loose and fall out the case. When I take off the crystall I saw dial which had faded Seiko logo, some scratches and hands which lost their lume.
Next step was strip down the movement - everywhere dirt and dry old oil. Time to cleaning bath
Look at this - it's my temporary balance wheel stand - I suspect that from temporary it will be permanent. It does job well.
After cleaning it's time to assembly movement. Now it looks better - maybe not pristine but clean and shiny. New oil here and there and movement starts to run. Now it's time for bench testing before install it to the case.
Meanwhile I took care of the case, dial and hands. Case got some polishing work - not to much cause I didn't want to loose the sharpness of edges. That is effect:
Dial and hands got new lume - I am not perfect in this work but I still learn to do this. Additional the seconds hand was repainted to orange color. I didn't change the crystall but i just polished it with waterpaper and on the end polish paste. Effect suprissed me. Time for the pleasant work - putting this all pieces together into the watch.
VID_20190927_195610.mp4
-
By jackie01
Hello,
I started new project - Citizen 67-9119. It's seventies chronograph based on 8110A movement. Watch came to me as "fully working in great condition" As you can see there isn't crystal. The one which was here had chip and wasn't set properly in bezel so when i turned the watch it fall on the floor and broke. As you can see dial is in quite good condition, only it needs to be relumed. Hands needs to be repainted and relumed too. Movement works well but it is too speedy ( +3 min/24h). Chrono buttons work properly, only the hour counter stops at "3h" position so I must to take a look here. I striped down the watch and disassembled movement. There was some much oil everywhere so the cleaning is required.
-
-
Recently Browsing
No registered users viewing this page.
-
Topics
-
-
Posts
-
I never expect anything and haven't yet done a single Japanese watch (an Orient model EV0S004B with a calibre 46E40 is in the pipe), but I must say, PUSH being written on the movement seems very convenient. -
For further clarification, Yes, it is exactly where it says “Push”, but also you have to pull out the winding stem to the first position, before there is anything to actually “Push” on. If you look into the space where you have to push, you will see the setting lever move into the correct place to be pushed, when the stem is pulled out to the first position. -
I just want to report that oldswisswatches.com have refunded me for the parts that I was not satisfied with. Mr. Sudarson has been very kind and accommodating in this matter. Again, I do not recommend against oldswisswatches.com, but given my dissatisfying experience I strongly advise that you ask for pictures and negotiate the price accordingly before placing you order.
-
Just like many Japanese, and ETA quartz as well, it's exactly where one expects it to be, and there is an harrows that points to it, written PUSH. -
I've spent a lot of time and a ton of money trying to get an optimal magnification solution. I wear glasses and the the only really well working clip-on I've found is Bergeon's ARY clip-ons. You can see them here. Nevertheless, I do not use this clip-on or any other lupes as I want to take advantage of the fact that I have two eyes and hence have stereo vision which helps immensely to determine distance when working with tweezers, etc. Instead I use magnification glasses (seen in this post) and a stereo microscope for all my work. It would seem to me that 99 % of all watch repairers and watchmakers prefer loups, but I just don't see the advantage of monovision. Perhaps it is just tradition?
-
Hey everyone, I cant find out how to get this drown off and I've tried everything. The Miyota JS25 movement says PUSH and points to a hole which I've learned means this is where you press to reease the crown but I still can't get the crown out no matter which position the crown is in. I first tried with the crown all the way out then with it halfway in, then all the way in and haven't been able to get it out, please help.
Share this post
Link to post
Share on other sites