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My first! Omega 565 cal. Seamaster project

SiZi

By SiZi
in Your Walkthroughs and Techniques

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SiZi Member

SiZi

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I’m in the process of servicing my first watch ever, after completing two levels of Mark’s course. I welcome tips :)

So far I have disassembled and done one cleaning. Next, I will use the ultrasonic and then will lubricate and reassemble. Fingers crossed!

415B3FD1-3EB1-4465-8287-E4D33B525F48.jpeg

E2D611A9-6F52-4ECD-B82A-A131184ABE09.jpeg

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SiZi Member

SiZi

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6 hours ago, Watchtime said:

really nice work for a 1st timer...well done...did you see Mark's comment about putting back the main spring by hand...:biggrin:

lol, yes, but it was too late! I didn’t have a wonder and wasn’t ready to wait several weeks for one to arrive (I live in India). So, this time won’t be best practice :)

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SiZi Member

SiZi

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6 hours ago, jackie01 said:

Congratulations. It's pleasant to see this work. Would you describe how you did cleaning process od the dial?

Thank you, and sure... first I used cotton buds to very gently wipe dirt off the dial face. Then, for the metal hour markers at 12,3,6,9 a little simichrome was used with a cotton bud. I had to be super gentle through the process. 

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rodabod Distinguished Member

rodabod

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On 9/9/2019 at 1:33 AM, SiZi said:

lol, yes, but it was too late! I didn’t have a wonder and wasn’t ready to wait several weeks for one to arrive (I live in India). So, this time won’t be best practice :)

Many people will disagree, but I find that it is ok to fit mainsprings by hand if you are careful. I still use a winder when it's easier though.

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JohnR725 Distinguished Member

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On 9/8/2019 at 9:57 AM, SiZi said:

I managed to put the mainspring back by hand, and started assembling the watch.

A helpful tip for anyone looking at this discussion? I snipped out an image found up above a typical newbie mistake? People usually reassemble the watch in the opposite order they took apart. Usually what I'll notice is they put the pallet fork in right at the very beginning and that's a big mistake. Yes you can put it in but you don't have to. If you don't have the pallet fork in you can verify that the gear train spins. It makes it a lot easier to put the wheels back in if the pallet fork is not there. So typically you put it in just before you put the balance wheel in makes things a lot easier.

 

not the first part to go in definitely not.JPG

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Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

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On 3/4/2022 at 4:44 PM, JohnR725 said:

A helpful tip for anyone looking at this discussion? I snipped out an image found up above a typical newbie mistake? People usually reassemble the watch in the opposite order they took apart. Usually what I'll notice is they put the pallet fork in right at the very beginning and that's a big mistake. Yes you can put it in but you don't have to. If you don't have the pallet fork in you can verify that the gear train spins. It makes it a lot easier to put the wheels back in if the pallet fork is not there. So typically you put it in just before you put the balance wheel in makes things a lot easier.

 

 

 This makes lots of sense.  When you have the fork in place and instal the barrel bridge next, you have missed the chance to verify the train running effortless and its back spin. 

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jerryvs Member

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my opinion for the correct reasembly 

1)barrel bridge 

2)train wheel bridge 

3) sec pinion with care a lot of 3rd wheels are damaged for this assembly 

personaly i take a new clear oiler to hold them down(the pinion) to put on the bridge 

4) pallet fork 

5) balance  

and good oiling and a bid of luck if you use the old mainspring 

 

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      Put the movement in a movement holder and it will be supported as you push down on the setting lever post to release the winding stem. Make sure the post is over the shoulder of the movement holder so what you are pressing down on is supported. As a general rule, hold the movement and not the movement holder. Replace the hands when the movement isn't in the case and support the centre jewel (if it has one) on a hard surface or staking block when replacing the hands to stop the jewel accidentally moving or even coming out. A dedicated movement holder with a central jewel support is even better, but pricey
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      It might help us if we knew which watch like model number.
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      Movement inserted from crytal side

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      By Jon · Posted

      I would go for the dearer spring. You won't need to remove the spring from the carrier ring and then use a mainspring winder to get it into the barrel, for a start. Also that spring is closer to the needed dimensions, especially the length. The length plays a part in the mainsprings strength. If you double the length you will half the force (strength) of the spring and vice-versa. A spring with 20 mm less length would be about 7% shorter, so technically would be 7% more strength, but I find halving this number is closer to real-world findings, so the spring would be about 3 to 4% more strength/force. On a mainspring that ideally kicks out 300 degrees of amplitude, a 3% increase in amplitude would be 309 degrees. Increasing or decreasing the length of the mainspring will affect the power reserve to a greater or lesser degree. It depends how much shorter or longer it is. I've attached a lesson regarding mainsprings, focussing on the size and strength of the spring within the barrel, you might find helpful. Unfortunately it is a PDF converted from a PowerPoint presentation, but only a slide was lost that was originally a video of fitting a mainspring   Lesson 5 The mainspring.pdf
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