Jump to content

removing a rotor of vintage citizen watch


Recommended Posts

Hello watchmakers!

I am about to work on a vintage citizen watch.

I removed the movement from the case but I am stuck on removing the automatic rotor..

It seems that my screwdrivers won't do the job..

Any advice would be helpful thank you.

images.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

image.thumb.png.747550d5b4c8519137d19c333050297c.png

The tool needed to remove the nut is described in that second PDF, around page 32 in my PDF reader.

You should be able to make something similar relatively easily from a piece of round stock, perhaps an old screwdriver blade with sufficient meat on it, by cutting a suitable slot in the flattened end.

Note the direction that it tells you to turn the tool. That sounds like a standard thread rather than a reverse one. Normally it is lefty, loosey, righty, tighty. i.e. Anticlockwise to undo and clockwise to tighten.

 

I would take the time to make the tool, as otherwise you risk marring the end of the "nut" on the weight.

Edited by AndyHull
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use an old bronze tweezer . Hold it over and use the left hand to press around when unscrewing . have worked for me so far. But as i saw the picture of the tool. I wonder if i don't have a screwdriver here that is for that . Always wonder what it was for. I will go and have a look. 

Edited by rogart63
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Found the tool . But couldn't find the movement right now . Is the nut approx 2,1 mm .  The citizen i had in was a 52 -.... diver . Which i thought should have a movement with such nut. But it had a normal 8200  movement. Great for me as i found those movement a pain to service. 5270 and 7270 isn't that the numbers. Have 200 clicksprings on the date mechanism :) 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, rogart63 said:

Found the tool . But couldn't find the movement right now . Is the nut approx 2,1 mm .  The citizen i had in was a 52 -.... diver . Which i thought should have a movement with such nut. But it had a normal 8200  movement. Great for me as i found those movement a pain to service. 5270 and 7270 isn't that the numbers. Have 200 clicksprings on the date mechanism :) 

 

14 hours ago, jguitron said:

I found one on eBay that worked perfectly fine at a very reasonable price.

Nothing else I tried worked!

Good luck.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

16 hours ago, AndyHull said:

image.thumb.png.747550d5b4c8519137d19c333050297c.png

The tool needed to remove the nut is described in that second PDF, around page 32 in my PDF reader.

You should be able to make something similar relatively easily from a piece of round stock, perhaps an old screwdriver blade with sufficient meat on it, by cutting a suitable slot in the flattened end.

Note the direction that it tells you to turn the tool. That sounds like a standard thread rather than a reverse one. Normally it is lefty, loosey, righty, tighty. i.e. Anticlockwise to undo and clockwise to tighten.

 

I would take the time to make the tool, as otherwise you risk marring the end of the "nut" on the weight.

 

17 hours ago, watchweasol said:

Thank you everyone for your generous advice.

I will try the tweezers!! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys! Just wanted to thank you because of you guys sharing all this information I got to put back a similar citizen for my dad!
I did not find any info on the movement (maybe did not use the right words) so took the thing apart blindly.... But just before putting back together I found this thread and got the manual someone shared! Thanks a lot.
9ecc333d9d52b77525930c4dad259c7a.jpg78c0e21ee4fc3541d9086da5682fb6a8.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...


  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • As an experiment i was thinking of not hardening it to see how it fairs. Now that i have a complete template i could knock up another in half the time if this loses its elasticity. I might play about with a few pieces today to test their bending and spring properties. This was cs 100 the supplier quoted in annealed state, it was nice to work with files so I'm taking it thats its state. What you are looking seems like it would need annealing to work it. This is why i went for this stuff that cuts out that process, it was so easy to work.
    • Showing state of hairspring on receipt, backplate & 'dished' wheel.  Thanks, Nev. Amplitude v. weak - balance wheel turns over arc of only ~20deg. Don't know how to calculate movement rate or safely vibrate balance spring! Meantime I have reduced the 'dishing' & clock no longer runs for more than a few minutes except face down which supports my theory that it was 'dished' as a hack to avoid doing a proper repair.
    • I would harden and temper (to a light blue). It's so easy to do and only takes a couple of minutes. A search on ebay UK for "spring steel strip cs" finds plenty available in small quantites and thicknesses from 0.1mm up.  But the question is ( @nickelsilver) which "CS" number is best for watch parts ?  Also, from one of the ads : "CARBON SPRING STEEL. SIZE IS METRIC 15.00mm X 0.10mm X 304 MM  CS100 FINISH BRIGHT . HARDENED AND TEMPERD TO 480-530VPN" I've no idea about 480-530VPN. Does that mean it needs annealing before working?       Have you seen this video, he shows how to determine where the indents go ?  
    • Here is the insert ring for rectangular or elliptical movements: Note that the length is the side with the stem cut out on the spreadsheet (in the picture below this is 15.15: Here is the fake pdf file, again you need to convert to .zip after download to access the FreeCAD and 3mf files. Rectangular insert disc.pdf    
    • as you took the mainspring out what did it look like? It's amazing how much amplitude you can get if the mainspring actually has the proper shape. last week I was doing a 12 size Hamilton and was very much surprised with the beautiful back curvature the mainspring had. Then the watch had a really nice amplitude the group would be so proud it was 350 until I dropped the lift angle down to 38 that drop the amplitude quite a bit below 300. then with the beautiful back curve it still had really nice amplitude the next day. I really wish all my mainspring's look like this as the watch had beautiful amplitude the next day. So many of the aftermarket pocketwatch Springs I see now do not have anything resembling a back curve may be a slight curve and that's about all. They still work but they just don't work as nice as a properly made spring. then Omega as all sorts of nifty technical documentation unfortunately every single corner is watermarked with where it came from who downloaded it etc. very paranoid company. On the other hand I will snip out images like from the document on recycling a mainspring barrel. for instance here's the section on what your mainspring should look like. water damaged a lot of times means rust was there rust on this watch?
×
×
  • Create New...