Jump to content

Seikosha movement - strange beat per hour


Recommended Posts

Hi all

I'm servicing a Seikosha movement 17 jewels with caliber no. is 297 (I guess).

It is a movement of vintage Seiko Champion watch. I have cleaned parts by ultrasonic; lubricated it. 

For the balance wheel shock assembly, I pegged the cap jewels (top and bottom), lubricated it with 9010 oil. After installing the balance wheel, it tick and tock. The upper and lower pivot of the BW is in the house of the shock assemblies. I also demagnitized the BW

The problem is: the beat per hour is 21600 but as far as I know it should be 18000 (see photo). And  it varies with different positions (see in the video). The rate is very bad with several hundreds seconds offset. 

So now I really need your help to fix this problem. 

The BW pivot is in the top shock assembly

 

140esmp.jpg

IMG_1456.JPG

IMG_1457.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is not a matter of beat rate but simply the signal is all over the place, the instrument can't pick a steady refernce.

As in all the many similar discussions here(and many related to Seiko) the issue is 99% with the escapement. You may have cleaned pegged an lubed  but that doesn't prevent a bent pivot, tight end shake, faulty pallet, distorted hairspring and I might name a 10 possible more possible reasons.

You have to inspect, try, possible replace something and try again. Good luck.,

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

One thing that strikes me is. In the first video it's very noisy . Are you sure the TG isn't picking up the noice from outside and inside the room .  

And check the hairspring as they have tendency to rub on the balance bridge. Must be perfectly flat. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, hokavan said:

Exactly. I'm looking for replacement on the bay...

If the pallets are undamged and only dislocated ,"moved in the fork slot" they can be adjusted. Our knowledgable guest  @nickelsilver  did help a member fix such fault, you can find the post among his work. There is also a video put out by ETA showing the proceedures. I personally do a good job of messing up adjusting pallets.

Best Regards joe

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
On 8/1/2019 at 10:05 PM, Nucejoe said:

Looks like pallets jewels have moved.

 

Hi all,

I found and bought another movement and replaced pallet, lower shock absorb jewel, lubricated then adjust the rate. Now the watch keeps about 38 hours will fully wound, rate is about 10-20 sec/day. I think its is acceptable for a nearly 60 years old movement. 

Thank you for your advice.

IMG_1544.JPG

IMG_1547.JPG

IMG_1556.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thanks Dell. I thought about silver soldering. Have never done it but would like to give it a go. Do you think to put flux on the butted joint then run the solder in or to maybe brace it with a piece of scrap spring steel?
    • Never and others. Yes like you I do spend a fair amount of time reading the contents of this forum. I find it better that any other. clear, lucid, no Prima Donas, and most of all an easy access without adverts. All thanks to Mark. God bless you mate. You give so much to many of us. What if? No Mark? Hypothetically. A forum. I did run a forum for a few years. Really enjoyed it, but became so engrossed that it did affect my health. I gave to to others to run. Not been back. It was very successful and rivalled a number of large paying sites. No adverts, no others but me. I did ask and listen to members comments and it worked well.    Costs Having a domain name, £10 annually.  Register the site with a forum company, free. Build the site using the forum company guide lines, free. It looked and ran almost the same a Mark's. All the same facilities. The cost was only £5 per month, but counted visits (views). If I recall, it was that price for 5,000 views. Each extra 5,000 views increased the price by £2 per month. Success was my own personal undoing. From £5 per month initially, it rose to £60 a month and looked like increasing. This was 10 years ago. I could not afford that, and asked it anyone would like to take over and someone did. I would assume that this is the price that Mark is funding for us all. His return is our continued comments on the internet about his course, and the fact that many of the big names on YouTube mention him as their Tutor. Those of us who have done, and are still using, his course, benefit. In comparison to other courses, I can't believe how cheap it is, and the value is exceptional. It is the structure that gives the value. Long may Mark reign. Ross  
    • Hi all, total newbie to watchmaking and I've had a bit of a mishap. Just completing level 2 and was doing ok, but I was just on the last part of the reassembly of my ST3620 when the balance end stone shot across the room, just as I was trying to see if I had put the correct amount of oil between it and the balance end, aarrrgh! Been on my hands and knees combing the carpet for 20mins looking for it but to no avail. Does anybody know where I can get a replacement from and what to look for please?? Thanks.
    • Get someone local to tig it ,very easy fix and should only take a few minutes so probably wouldn’t cost much ,or failing that get it very clean and silver solder it. Dell
    • Hi, The winding pin is not split, well that's how it was when I obtained the watch. The movement is front-loaded and here's a picture of where the case screws are fitted. The face picture is before I dismantled it. Quick update.  I've always had a nylon ring sitting in the parts try that I wasn't sure where it went and left it to the last thing as I know it must be part of the case assembly. Anyway, looking at the picture in my last post you can see, just under the winding stem, a white-looking object, this is the nylon ring 🤭 So, I had to remove the dial again and replace the ring. Once this was all back together I placed the movement in the case and realized my initial problem maybe is not a problem as it looks like I can screw the movement back in the case and then place the hands as the dial is nearly flush with the outside of the case anyway so I'll be able to check for alignment. if all is good then just fit the crystal and bezel 🤔 I can't think of any issues with this approach but please comment if you think I've not thought of something. Another lesson learned as well. Take more pictures not just of the movement parts and location 😅
×
×
  • Create New...