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Seiko 5 7009-8210


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Hi,

This is my first real experience with watch restoration. I've tinkered with movements previously and recently serviced an ETA 2824-2 in my Glycine but that's it. Please excuse any incorrect terminology I use, very new to this and just starting with my horology education. I bought a cheap but working Seiko 5 railway time with a view to dismantling, restoring (to a reasonable level) and servicing it. I'd like to be able to use it by the time i'm done.

It's pretty crusty with seals missing or worn, dusty old lume and doesn't run great but it has at least had some love over the years. Some pictures for the 'journey' so far;

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The strip down went fine except for the Second reduction wheel screw which sheared when I tried to remove it. Luckily I managed to remove the thread without causing damage and have a replacement standing by. Please ignore the hair, was used for scale - I was showing off to family as I was so chuffed to remove such a small threaded shaft.

 

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It's currently in bits awaiting a good clean whilst I turn my attention to the crystal and case.

 

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That leads me on to my first question. I couldn't locate a crystal gasket either residing in the case or stuck to the crystal. I'm sure it must have had one in an attempt to be water resistent. The gold coloured tensioning ring is present however. Does anyone know what type of gasket I require to properly seat/seal the crystal? Looking at Cousins in the UK I see the 'I' or 'L' types but i'm unsure and also of the correct way to size the gasket. Any help would be appreciated. Some images below of sizing.

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I'll update further as I progress.

Thanks, Ben.

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1 hour ago, benemos said:

That leads me on to my first question. I couldn't locate a crystal gasket either residing in the case or stuck to the crystal. I'm sure it must have had one in an attempt to be water resistent. The gold coloured tensioning ring is present however. Does anyone know what type of gasket I require to properly seat/seal the crystal? Looking at Cousins in the UK I see the 'I' or 'L' types but i'm unsure and also of the correct way to size the gasket. Any help would be appreciated. Some images below of sizing.

It there is a tension ring there won't be a gasket. Water resistance will be based on surfaces (tight) contact and owner's responsibility.

Edited by jdm
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9 hours ago, jdm said:

It there is a tension ring there won't be a gasket. Water resistance will be based on surfaces (tight) contact and owner's responsibility.

That's great, thanks for the info.

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19 hours ago, anilv said:

The reduction wheel screw is a left-hand thread. Basically anything with three lines on it is left-hand threaded.

Just in case you were not aware!

Anilv

Indeed. I remembered this time but I suppose it's easily overlooked. I think I'll keep a few of those screws spare in future!

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    • I have come across left-handed threads on ratchet wheels several times - without it being indicated with 3 stripes. It has been mentioned before - it was suggested that it was done to save one extra tooling operation (changing to a LH thread tap)
    • I would say that most of the Swiss movements that I have worked on over the years have had right hand threaded ratchet wheel screws. However maybe 10% have been left handers. As for the 3 slot marking to indicate reverse threads although I have encountered it on Swiss movements I find it's more of a non-Swiss practice, more common on Russian and Japanese movements. The thing with left hand threads is that they are inteded to prevent the screw from being undone in the event that the component that they are screwed into has a normally anti-clockwise direction of rotation, which would loosen a right handed thread unless there was some other means of preventing the component turning independently of the screw. With the ratchet wheel the screw goes into the mainspring arbor which is locked to the ratchet wheel via the square. Because the square locks everything together the screw can be left or right handed without issue.  
    • Hi Floyd, welcome to WRT! I'm also pretty new so take everything I say with a grain of salt. You ought to be able to measure the case ID to determine the crystal size and then purchase one of either side of the diameter you think ought to work. As to other parts, there are a couple of resources that will help. One is a website in Germany that will help with information on the movement. The other is a book (that I don't yet have) that seems to have a lot of information. Many of the vendors have this database available online and there are pdf versions that you can get on CD. Looking here will give you a list of domestic (USA) resources for parts and tools if you haven't already found some.
    • I think relying on the "stripes" on the screw head is the issue. If they're there, great but don't think that a normal screw head can't be left-handed and don't assume that the ratchet wheel can't have a left-handed screw either.
    • My apologies for the necropost, but what book is that?
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