Jump to content
  • 0

Landeron 248 modified 4th wheel


Hi Gents,

Currently, I try to recondition a 1970 Regency chronograph with a Landeron 248 movement. 

Everything is going fine so far. Ordered new mainspring, glass, gasket and pushers as they were a bit stiff. The case itself has been replated as it was also quite worn. I dismantled the whole movement and this is where I have some problem and I would like to ask more experienced members' opinion as I am only a novice.

Straight to the issue, I could not remove the 4th wheel. For me, it seems that the bottom of the 4th wheel pivot was formerly broken but still long enough to sit in the 4th wheel bottom jewel hole. In addition, it looks that a small pipe or so was fitted from the bottom plate to the end of the 4th wheel pinion. And this is the reason that I cannot remove it. 

Could it have happened as I detailed above or it is a normal thing? Should I remove it anyway and change the whole 4th wheel or the pinion if I can manage to find a replacement. What can be done? what do you suggest?

After this, I decided to carry on like that and at the end when I will measure the accuracy, it should show some really bad results in case if there is any affection.

And now got to the second issue. So, at the end of the cleaning, I found a small pin in the bottom of the horosolv jar. I managed to find its place. However, I am not quite sure how to fit it again. To be honest, I cannot see its purpose really. From the bottom end, it is underneath the setting lever, and from the top plate also it sticks out hardly any. 

Have you got any idea how to solve these problems?

Sorry for the poor quality of the pictures. Hope they help though.
Please detail your answers as I am just a beginner.

Any help is much appreciated.



P.S.: Please ignore the notes on some of the images which are not related to my issues. Thanks.







Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

7 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0

That little modification isn't a very good modification, it will require you to modify any pivot on the replacement wheels you buy since I guess the inner diameter of that tube isn't the same as the diameter of the original jewel hole. I  would have replaced the jewel and put a new 4th wheel in.
If the screw you arre woundering about is the one in the 3:rd picture then it is just a normal screw from the bridge, it should come ontop of where it is now when you put the trainbridge back.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

Yes the loose pin is a guide pin from a bridge, but from which you have to find out your self.
I'm still pussled about that tube in the jewel, how is it supposed the lubrication comes on to the wheel pivot from the oil cup? 

Landeron 248.jpg

Edited by HSL

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0


Apologies for the late reply, I was quite busy in the last couple of weeks and not much has been done since. I designed a mainspring winder as they are quite pricy. But I stuck in a bit as I've been waiting for weeks now to get 3d printed by a friend. Until today, as finally, I persuaded my wife about 3d printers so I ordered my first entry-level machine. (Cetus mk3)

Also, I'm not sure how to deal with the worn dials. Recently, I've seen Mark's video how he printed his own dial designs. So I am going to try that way and keep the original dial in case I decide to sell the watch. First of all, I had to make a plain replacement dial with the holes and legs. The surface still needs to be polished before anything is attached.

I also checked the small minute hand. This can also prove how amateur I am in watchmaking. Delgetti, exactly as you said. Part of the minute hand stuck on the pivot of the 4th wheel so hard that I am still surprised by how I could manage to remove it without breaking the pivot.

In regard to the pin, I found its exact location, in the keyless work right underneath the setting lever. The setting lever is quite loose now even if it was not removed or loosened over the cleaning. I remember it was not wobbling at all. So, I assume that the pin adjusts the hight of the setting lever and also makes less friction as the lever comes into contact only with the top of the pin while it slides. 

Any ideas how to fit it back? I can set how much it has to stick out because there are marks on the pin. But should I solder? I'm afraid of damaging other features on the plate.

I have another silly question about oiling the movement. Would it be acceptable to use 8300 natural grease where 9501 synthetic grease is advised (keyless work etc.)? In the future, I will need to buy some but now I spent way too much on this project.

Sorry for the novel.

Guys, your experience, knowledge and help are highly respected and much appreciated.
Thank you,


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

Hello, thanks for the feedback. I hope this is not impolite but I disagree about that pin. Have a look at the barrel bridge as HSL stated. I think that pin should be soldered here (black arrow). 



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Answer this question...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Create New...