Jump to content

Carbon mainsprings


Recommended Posts

I disassembled an old scrap movement and this is my first encounter with a carbon mainspring.
There is plenty of information on the modern alloy mainsprings across the web but I’m not finding much info about the carbon ones.

1. Disassembly – trying to disassemble it the same way as with Nivaflex it popped out unexpectedly (possibly due to my handling and the small size, about 8mm barrel).

2. Assembly – What’s the best way to get the spring into the barrel? Tools can be purchased for modern alloy mainsprings but I can’t find anything for carbon. Perhaps one of the antique K&D winders that can be seen on Ebay?

3. Barrel arbor fitting – the arbor loosely fits into the coil (pics below) unlike the Nivaflex. I don’t know whether this is how it should be with carbon springs or whether the spring is stretched.

It could do with a new mainspring but as this is a scrap movement, I don’t intend to spend money on it, it’s for practice only.

20190713_164258 (Copy).jpg

20190713_165232 (Copy).jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just tighten the spring for better grip on arbor.

Can be wound in manually, rinse and grease afterwards, start from outer coils to wind in.Greasing wont be as thorough but hardly the end of the world.

Wear protective gogles.

I assume it is manual wind.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, this is manual wind.

How do you tighten it? I believe the carbon is very fragile.
After tightening it might work on a Nivaflex winder, at this moment it’s too loose and the eye doesn’t catch the hook.

Manually as place the spring against the barrel inner wall and start winding it in? I can put dots of grease on the barrel and the lid but I’m not sure what you mean by rinse.

Is there a particular tool for winding carbon springs?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nothing special about winding a carbon steel spring other than the fact that they may break especially if old and set.  The center eye that fits the arbor is probably sprung on this old spring and since it is a scrap movement, you should take your round nose pliers and practice closing it a bit.  Go gently and in small increments.  if you can successfully close the center eye without breaking it, it should then fit a MS winder very nicely.


RMD

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

55 minutes ago, rduckwor said:

Nothing special about winding a carbon steel spring other than the fact that they may break especially if old and set.  The center eye that fits the arbor is probably sprung on this old spring and since it is a scrap movement, you should take your round nose pliers and practice closing it a bit.  Go gently and in small increments.  if you can successfully close the center eye without breaking it, it should then fit a MS winder very nicely.


RMD

Sounds like a good plan. I’m going to have to look for some suitable pliers, the pair I have is certainly not up to the job.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Unfortunately I'm not that lucky. I started on the train side and after I noticed the binding I pulled everything out except the driving wheel to rule everything else out. It still binds. I'm going to double check that the pinion is fully seated on the staff first, then if no joy I'll push the bridge jewel up a fraction of a mm. Fingers crossed!
    • Happy to have helped, great way to start the day with a win! 🥳
    • Thank you for the advise!! It worked. The setting screw was a lock/unlock to remove the rotor. 
    • I have that French tech sheet too, it is a little different than the English one (eg, it doesn't have the auto works diagram). BTW, it looks like you are looking up the case number in the 1979 ABC supplement. The 1974 ABC catalog does have the 3093 case. As you determined it takes the 1222-5 crystal.  When I serviced my President 'A' (which also takes that crystal), I was able to fit a 29.8 crystal from my DPA crystal assortment. Those are, in my opinion, a great deal. The assortment comes with 10 sizes each from 27.8mm to 32.4mm in 0.2 increments. I pretty much use them for any non-armored crystal that takes a high dome crystal. I think they no longer make them but Cousins has still has some in stock but when I bought them they were around $40 for the set and now they are around $100. Still, at 40 cents a crystal it's still a good deal. For the large driving wheel, I remember I once assembled the keyless/motion works first and when I placed the large driving wheel it was interfering with the setting wheel on the dial side as the teeth were not fully meshing and it wouldn't fully seat. If that isn't the issue I got nothing and am looking forward to see how you solve it 🙂
    • Not sure, but just looking at it, it seems like the screw on the right may be a fake? The one on the left may not be a screw in the regular sense at all, rather a 2 position device, I think you need to point the slot towards either of the 2 dots and one will secure and one will open. Like I said this is just my best guess looking at the pictures.
×
×
  • Create New...