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By Pigskinfanboy · Posted
Thank you for the warm welcome. Cleaning stakes is probably 80% of what I do daily 😳. I had issues with severe flash rust with other things and I haven’t tried my ultrasonic cleaner with stakes yet. I probably will now just to see how it works out. I probably have 3-4 thousand stakes at the moment and was looking for a way to clean/polish large amounts at one time. I started out using Evap O Rust soaks, which worked but still required hand polishing and severe flash rust usually happened fast. I found a website that polishes jewelry in a vibratory type polisher so I picked up a large one to try out. (Eventually got a smaller one also). I started out with a ceramic type media, It did a great job, but I still had to hand polish each and every one and it left them like a muddy mess and clogged the ends easily. I then found out the big companies that specialize in polishing small pieces used a stainless steel media to clean and polish at the same time. Evidently using this method somehow burnished the stakes and prevented them from rusting easily. To get an even nicer finish they used a wet polish method and that has been the key to getting my best finish with large amounts of stakes. It just basically removes any rust and corrosion and leaves a very nice finish. I can’t measure any loss of material with a micrometer or a digital dial caliper. Some of these stakes are from the early 1900’s and are not as durable as the newer stakes, so it varies some. I have piles of damaged stakes that won’t make the cut but I’m saving in case I ever get a lathe 😂. I did notice that sometimes the holes were clogged up and still needed to clean them manually. I wonder if the Ultrasonic process would fix that ? Before I ship a set I still manually go through each and every stake but sometimes I slip up and miss one or two. My processes are getting better and I’m getting more organized as I go. Thanks for sharing your process. I have some Boley stuff also that I am hoping to finish up one day. -
In the process of laser engraving the plate, it is crucial to set the correct engraving depth. If the depth is too deep, it may result in a murky pad printing effect, while if it is too shallow, the lines may become disconnected, leading to broken lines. On flat dials without texture, using a harder silicone pad for pad printing will yield better results. The hardness of the silicone pad directly affects the thickness of the lines, and adjusting the hardness appropriately is key to achieving precise printing. Additionally, the ink ratio is another critical factor in successful pad printing. Adding too much thinner will cause the lines to become unclear, while too little thinner may cause the ink to cure too quickly, resulting in broken lines during printing. In summary, laser engraving, silicone pad hardness, and ink ratio are all interrelated, and each step can affect the final result. These steps require extensive practice and experimentation to find the most suitable formula. I hope these insights can provide some useful reference and help! -
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Welcome to the forum, Rick! Cool story! Always appreciate if people take a little more time to introduce themselves. Coincidentally, I spent a few hours this weeks cleaning out the insides of all my staking set punches (a German Boley set) and cleaning everything in the ultrasonic. Not really a restoration, but loved the feeling of seeing the set in full shine again and knowing that I can use it without worrying about clogged punches. There's often threads where members look for buying advice for their first staking sets. Your inputs will certainly be appreciated. -
Hi everyone, Just joined the group in the hope that somebody here may be able to help me. I've been hunting high and low to find a split stem male winder caliber 795 for an Elgin 27 ladies auto watch and have got nowhere. I was wondering if another cal winder could work e.g. 794. It was a birthday present for my wife and the first time I used the winder it broke. Desperate to try anything that would work. Hope you can suggest something. Kind regards Keith Moody -
By SwissSeiko · Posted
I have a taig, which is the cheaper version of a sherline. I also made a tailstock runner. Its best to turn it between centers to get it concentric. As far as a set screw, I would go with a different approach, as any lateral input on the drill bit will shift it slightly and move it out of center. The best option is to turn a bunch of brass sockets for all the bits you have, turn a taper on the end that will go into the tailstock runner, and shellac the drill bit in the socket. Since you already have experience making a runner, you can make another one with an internal taper that matches the external taper you put on the brass sockets.
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