Hi my friends.
I saw WRT video in youtube. It's so helpful to me. Thank you Watch Repair Channel.
After watching video, I'm looking for watch repair oil and grease.
I want know what oil & grease need to beginner.
In addition, I want know what oil &grease used in video (7s26 repiar video).
If anyone knew about that, help my work.
I will very appreciate any information or links.
Thank you to read my poor writing.
Well, this is my first effort of a watch repair. I have been fascinated with watches, clocks and all kinds of mechanical things since a young age. I decided at this time that working on watches would be a great hobby/interest to take up in my later years. I have already spent some time learning to refurbish and repair fishing reels in the last few years. So here is my first repair attempt.
Interest in tinkering watches started when I dropped my Seiko SKX009KD diver to the tile floor in the bathroom. Was not too good an idea to put a watch on there with a towel thrown over it, pulled the towel and down comes the watch, face down on the tile floor. Needless to say, I picked it up and took a look, nothing seen. Then I shake it and hear a rattle. Not too good!
So I did some research on the 7S26C movements. Read a lot of information and watched a lot of videos. Thanks to all that makes this information available. So I purchased a cheap watch tool kit from Amazon. I had other watches that needed batteries and some strap work anyway. I knew the kit would not be 'pro' grade, but it was a nice kit with all the basic tools needed.
Back to the rattle, I figured the Oscillating Weight (OW) had become separated from the bearing. So I used the case back wrench in the kit and opened the back, and sure enough that was the problem. I looked on-line for a replacement OW but could not find any except one on Ebay for $35! So I decided, what the heck, I'll try to repair this one. So, here is what I did being a little mechanically inclined but never at this small a scale, I performed the following:
1) remove case back.
2) examine the OW, it was dislodged/loose from the bearing.
3) remove center OW bearing from center post.
4) place OW on a small anvil, then use a small pin punch from the kit as to carefully work the metal around the OW's hole as to make the bearing hole smaller.
6) After enough working with the punch, I took a smooth round stone and gently kept working the ID of the OW hole until it just would friction fit to the surface of the OW bearing.
7) carefully press fit the bearing into the OW, I knew too much pressure would ruin the small bearing races and ball bearings.
8) finalized fitting of the bearing to the OW by applying a very small amount of red Locktite thread locker using the end of a pin as an 'oiler'.
9) I then let the OW set for a day to cure the Locktite
10) install OW per alignment instructions in the 7S26C technical guide. At this time I also wound the mainspring up 8 turns to check the power, it ran for about 40 hours.
11) did not have any watch oil, so I used a very small amount of some 10W synthetic engine oil using a small pin as the oiler to lubricate the OW bearing ONLY.
It appears to be a successful repair for now, watch been running great and keeping good time for about 2 months. I'm sure something else might have gotten damaged during the fall, especially the balance assembly, but then again the watch is working fine for now. I might use this particular watch to dive deeper into the 7S26 movement at a later time. Kind of happy for now. Got 2 other watches running with new batteries, fitted some straps and having fun with my new hobby. Look forward to learning some more. Now to find a 'bag o watches at a flea market and get busy. I know I'm going to need more and quality tools down the road, that's OK with me.
No registered users viewing this page.
Hello Rogart, and thank you for the generous offer. After a quick look on ranfft it does appear that 12.68N does have a quite a bit larger pivot, as the dimensions listed are "1.6 x 1.00 x 0.22mm", while the 12.68Z has "1.32 x 0.75 x 0.22mm". So unless I am missing something, I'm assuming they wouldn't fit very well. I did measure the lenght of my hands, 10.9mm on the hour, and 14.75mm on the minute, roughly as the metal looks quite brittle, and I didn't want to mash it in my caliper. I am curious if the lenghts are similar to the 12.68N.
Hi all. I have a couple of Ecozilla's I'm sorting knackered date changes on. That in itself doesn't present any particular issues, but on one of them the bezel click has packed up too. The two Ecozilla's are of different ages. One is the B873-S015804 and one is the B873-S02664 [RFN]. The RFN model, which I think is the newer one, the bezel just screws off. The non-RFN one, this doesn't appear to be the case. Although I kind of think it must be or how would you change the crystal? Long story short, it's not my watch and I don't want to damage it by trying to force something that won't move. I've even looked online and a lot of the bezels seem to have the text on them in the same alignment which has me wondering too. Does anyone have any Citizen tech manuals that would cover this? Or has done one before? (Must have done the non-RFN sa the other is different). Thanks for any help you are able to offer. Pip Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
I believe that both evaporate very quickly. As far as I understand it (I don't use either), they are both either dry lubricants in a highly volatile carrier, or the lubricant portion of it is extremely small so it has to be applied using a carrier to bulk it out for handling purposes. Either way the carrier solvent is designed to be very volatile so that it quickly dries after application, leaving just a very light coating of the actual lubricant behind. Pretty much the same as the old school "couple of drops of 9020 in 10ml of benzine" trick that @nickelsilver alluded to above; the benzine evaporates leaving behind just the lightest application of 9020 residue.