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     Hi. My name is Tony. I'm from New Jersey, in the United States. I have a modest entry level collection of quartz and mechanical watches.

     I enjoy repairing electrical, mechanical, pneumatic, and hydraulic equipment. I want to learn how to maintain and repair a wide variety of watches.

     I'm looking forward to learning about watch repair and making Friends in this forum.

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    • Hi  I think now is the time to study Mark Lovic's  (our Host) videos on the 3135 and build up from there before any real damage is done. to that effect I have attached the service document an two parts sheets should parts be require.    I believe there were three parts taking you through the disassembly and re assembly stage by stage.  If and when you decide to do the job take plenty of photos at the various stages as a memory aid and for future reference.  It may be a Rolex but its no different to any other watch of this type and will require some time and care.  good luck. Rolex-3135-tech (1).pdf 2882_Rolex 3135 Pages 6-11.pdf 2879_Rolex 3135 Pages 1-5.pdf
    • A good question. It looks like trouble. 😋 I pulled the coil out and unpeeled the top layer to see whether I could simply resolder the feed wires to the coil, but as you can see, despite my best efforts this was not successful. Initially I was hopeful, as the original feed wire had broken from the tab due to corrosion caused by the ancient rubber insulation decomposing and absorbing moisture. The problem is though, that this corrosion may also have affected the inaccessible inner feed wire.  It appears therefore that the break lies either on the bottom attachment (which would necessitate unwinding the entire coil) or it lies somewhere in the middle. I've attached some pictures of the mechanism and my failed attempts to fix the coil. The dimensions of the coil are in the sketch in the last picture. You can see from these images that the dimensions of the coil are fairly precise as it just manages to squeeze in to the space. Since I don't have any idea what the original resistance was, I'm a little reluctant to attempt to wind the coil with fresh wire (which I could probably do using the seweing machine), since getting this wrong runs the risk of winding a coil that runs hot which might be a little exciting,  or one that has insufficient oomph to turn the motor. I guess I could un-spool a meter of the wire and measure its gauge and resistance, then simply count the number of turns on the coil, but frankly that does sound like a lot of work. By the same token I'd rather get it working with the original mechanism than take the easy route and fit a quartz mech. I've put the mechanism back together for the time being, to ensure that I don't loose anything,  while I ponder what I'm going to do next. Wrapping the enamel wire on to the new feed wire Soldering the enamelled wire on to a replacement feed wire.  The rear of the front plate showing some of the gears. The failed repair re-fitted to show the clearances. Those two pins at the bottom are where the feed wires would attach with tabs and the mains cable would attach from the outside. The "bearing". I'm not sure what exactly this is made of, but it may be graphite. It is not an electrical contact and brush, as you might think. The only electrical part of the clock is the coil.  The motor needs to be spun in the correct direction following loss of power by a mechanical contrivance operated from the back of the case. The spring and bushing refitted. There is a similar bushing on the other end of the motor shaft which can be accessed using the wide brass grubscrew like widget on the rear of the case with the screw slot in it. That strange window lets you see if the motor is turning. Presumably this was used in the factory when testing. The "control panel". On the left the "kick start", followed by the adjuster for the hands and the "tick/silent" control. The bushing on this side is behind that wide brass screw. It looks exactly like the other one. The mains wires were originally fed in to the lower left and right holes and clamped in place by grub screws accessed from the top two holes. There was no earth. That middle hole in the bottom was for a cable clamp screw. The top two holes are therefore where you poke your screwdriver into the live terminals when the power is connected if you want to entertain your audience by connecting yourself accidentally to 240 V AC and blowing yourself across the room, with much foul language. Elf and Safety 1950s style. The dimensions of the coil including the sizes of the hole for the iron core. There is a corner missing from the plastic former. This may have broken off, or may perhaps have been  removed in the manufacturing process to ensure the coil is orientated correctly while assembling. However since the motor is not self starting, and needs to be spun in the correct direction by that knob on the back every time the power is lost, I suspect the direction of the field is not important, so fitting the coil back to front probably wouldn't make any difference.
    • Thanks everyone cheers gary
    • I agree.  My grandpa wore this watch 24/7 no matter what.  You can see in the first pic the hands have pitting and staining.  The original dial, pic below, in addition to having the posts broken off, had serious staining and signs of moisture.  The watch was serviced in 2017 by a local jewelry shop (I think they broke the dial and second wheel stem) and was running with great accuracy (-2 seconds per day).  I am trying to avoid the $400 dollar service fee again and started working on it and then continued to get deeper the more comfortable I got.  Besides the fact that it's broken right now, it was running very well despite the appearance of the movement.
    • The movement is extremely dirty which is unusual for a Rolex. This  movement has been out of its case for a service or it has been worn in a very dirty environment and either the case is not sealed or the crown seals are perished. My advise to to have it serviced by an experienced watchmaker.
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