Jump to content

Automatic oilers - what's the difference?


PeterS

Recommended Posts

Does anyone know the difference between the Bergeon automatic oilers?
They all look the same when I look at the pictures so I’m wondering if I get the 1A why couldn’t I use it for train wheel pivots and cup bearings instead of the oiler 5 if I put the appropriate oil in the 1A oiler?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One thing for sure you would need to thoroughly clean it before you put another type of oil in, which would be time-consuming and what would you clean it with to avoid damaging its seals.

Edited by TheFixer
Link to comment
Share on other sites

They don't have seals in the sense of rubber o rings etc.

A plastic and metal nozzle and steel needle which is drawn back into the oil reservoir with the trigger and as you release it takes a droplet of oil with it.

The 1A has an incredibly fine tip and while you technically could oil train wheels with it, it would require a few actuations to get the desired quantity of oil to them.

The other numbers have larger nozzle and tips and if you tried to use an oil that was too thick in say the 1A it wouldn't flow through properly.

You set them to deposit the precise droplet on an end stone with one activation of the trigger.

Hour this helps.

Incidentally they really are superb for oiling shock settings and can be done in situ before fitting the balance.

Edit to say bergeon instructions for cleaning the nozzle advise to ultrasonic clean.

Edited by m1ks
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, m1ks said:

They don't have seals in the sense of rubber o rings etc.

A plastic and metal nozzle and steel needle which is drawn back into the oil reservoir with the trigger and as you release it takes a droplet of oil with it.

The 1A has an incredibly fine tip and while you technically could oil train wheels with it, it would require a few actuations to get the desired quantity of oil to them.

The other numbers have larger nozzle and tips and if you tried to use an oil that was too thick in say the 1A it wouldn't flow through properly.

You set them to deposit the precise droplet on an end stone with one activation of the trigger.

Hour this helps.

Incidentally they really are superb for oiling shock settings and can be done in situ before fitting the balance.

Edit to say bergeon instructions for cleaning the nozzle advise to ultrasonic clean.

Interesting thank you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, m1ks said:

They don't have seals in the sense of rubber o rings etc.

A plastic and metal nozzle and steel needle which is drawn back into the oil reservoir with the trigger and as you release it takes a droplet of oil with it.

The 1A has an incredibly fine tip and while you technically could oil train wheels with it, it would require a few actuations to get the desired quantity of oil to them.

The other numbers have larger nozzle and tips and if you tried to use an oil that was too thick in say the 1A it wouldn't flow through properly.

You set them to deposit the precise droplet on an end stone with one activation of the trigger.

Hour this helps.

Incidentally they really are superb for oiling shock settings and can be done in situ before fitting the balance.

Edit to say bergeon instructions for cleaning the nozzle advise to ultrasonic clean.

I did suspect that the nozzles would be different sizes but I couldn’t tell from looking at the images.
It all makes sense now!

Could anyone give me some more details about the 2A? I can see that the 1A could be very useful, probably the 5 as well but I can’t see much use for the 2A oiler, perhaps a precise amount of 9415 (or other pallet grease) on the pallet stone and that’s it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can only advise on the 1A as I just have that one and know the others are larger.

The 'trigger' is on an eccentric screw so with a combination of that and how far you insert the needle and lock it in place you can vary the amount from a tiny droplet to a reasonable size droplet.

I'd think the 1A would be more suitable for oiling pallets but honestly I couldn't justify the cost of more than one when standard oilers are good enough, if I were doing it as a career and serviced a large quantity or a lot of the same I'd consider a second one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • as you took the mainspring out what did it look like? It's amazing how much amplitude you can get if the mainspring actually has the proper shape. last week I was doing a 12 size Hamilton and was very much surprised with the beautiful back curvature the mainspring had. Then the watch had a really nice amplitude the group would be so proud it was 350 until I dropped the lift angle down to 38 that drop the amplitude quite a bit below 300. then with the beautiful back curve it still had really nice amplitude the next day. I really wish all my mainspring's look like this as the watch had beautiful amplitude the next day. So many of the aftermarket pocketwatch Springs I see now do not have anything resembling a back curve may be a slight curve and that's about all. They still work but they just don't work as nice as a properly made spring. then Omega as all sorts of nifty technical documentation unfortunately every single corner is watermarked with where it came from who downloaded it etc. very paranoid company. On the other hand I will snip out images like from the document on recycling a mainspring barrel. for instance here's the section on what your mainspring should look like. water damaged a lot of times means rust was there rust on this watch?
    • I dont understand why a patreon membership would have limited places ??
    • Welcome to the forum, enjoy. It’s highly unlikely you will be able to purchase a new bezel look on eBay for a pulsar watch for repair to find a bezel.
    • just one little minor reminder here this isn't your normal balance wheel.  pages 17 and 18 are what you really want to be looking at. normally studs don't turn but this watch has the etachron system designed for lots of adjustment. Personally I would try to rotate the stud back to where it's supposed to be. If you're lucky you didn't actually bend it at the stud it just looks really bad as the stud has been rotated grossly out of position.. I think things will look a lot better if you put the hairspring back where it's supposed to be by rotating the stud. it's hard to tell if you actually did bend it at the stud or not we won't know until you rotate the stud back more or less where it's supposed to be. Then you want to pay attention to the manual of how to put the hairspring back in the regulator pins because yes they rotate also and they rotated specific directions otherwise bad things will happen to your hairspring. so initially you can open up the regulator as wide as it can go and don't worry about closing it until thing everything is right then you can close them a little bit
×
×
  • Create New...