Jump to content

Automatic oilers - what's the difference?


PeterS

Recommended Posts

Does anyone know the difference between the Bergeon automatic oilers?
They all look the same when I look at the pictures so I’m wondering if I get the 1A why couldn’t I use it for train wheel pivots and cup bearings instead of the oiler 5 if I put the appropriate oil in the 1A oiler?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One thing for sure you would need to thoroughly clean it before you put another type of oil in, which would be time-consuming and what would you clean it with to avoid damaging its seals.

Edited by TheFixer
Link to comment
Share on other sites

They don't have seals in the sense of rubber o rings etc.

A plastic and metal nozzle and steel needle which is drawn back into the oil reservoir with the trigger and as you release it takes a droplet of oil with it.

The 1A has an incredibly fine tip and while you technically could oil train wheels with it, it would require a few actuations to get the desired quantity of oil to them.

The other numbers have larger nozzle and tips and if you tried to use an oil that was too thick in say the 1A it wouldn't flow through properly.

You set them to deposit the precise droplet on an end stone with one activation of the trigger.

Hour this helps.

Incidentally they really are superb for oiling shock settings and can be done in situ before fitting the balance.

Edit to say bergeon instructions for cleaning the nozzle advise to ultrasonic clean.

Edited by m1ks
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, m1ks said:

They don't have seals in the sense of rubber o rings etc.

A plastic and metal nozzle and steel needle which is drawn back into the oil reservoir with the trigger and as you release it takes a droplet of oil with it.

The 1A has an incredibly fine tip and while you technically could oil train wheels with it, it would require a few actuations to get the desired quantity of oil to them.

The other numbers have larger nozzle and tips and if you tried to use an oil that was too thick in say the 1A it wouldn't flow through properly.

You set them to deposit the precise droplet on an end stone with one activation of the trigger.

Hour this helps.

Incidentally they really are superb for oiling shock settings and can be done in situ before fitting the balance.

Edit to say bergeon instructions for cleaning the nozzle advise to ultrasonic clean.

Interesting thank you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, m1ks said:

They don't have seals in the sense of rubber o rings etc.

A plastic and metal nozzle and steel needle which is drawn back into the oil reservoir with the trigger and as you release it takes a droplet of oil with it.

The 1A has an incredibly fine tip and while you technically could oil train wheels with it, it would require a few actuations to get the desired quantity of oil to them.

The other numbers have larger nozzle and tips and if you tried to use an oil that was too thick in say the 1A it wouldn't flow through properly.

You set them to deposit the precise droplet on an end stone with one activation of the trigger.

Hour this helps.

Incidentally they really are superb for oiling shock settings and can be done in situ before fitting the balance.

Edit to say bergeon instructions for cleaning the nozzle advise to ultrasonic clean.

I did suspect that the nozzles would be different sizes but I couldn’t tell from looking at the images.
It all makes sense now!

Could anyone give me some more details about the 2A? I can see that the 1A could be very useful, probably the 5 as well but I can’t see much use for the 2A oiler, perhaps a precise amount of 9415 (or other pallet grease) on the pallet stone and that’s it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can only advise on the 1A as I just have that one and know the others are larger.

The 'trigger' is on an eccentric screw so with a combination of that and how far you insert the needle and lock it in place you can vary the amount from a tiny droplet to a reasonable size droplet.

I'd think the 1A would be more suitable for oiling pallets but honestly I couldn't justify the cost of more than one when standard oilers are good enough, if I were doing it as a career and serviced a large quantity or a lot of the same I'd consider a second one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • OK! I was able to get a nice set of timing washers from ebay! And they worked really well. I needed to slow down the movement by about 6min and I put four (=two pairs) of 3-minute washers (rated for the the size of the movement) and it did pretty much exactly that. On one pair of screws, there were already washers. So I added a second washer on those screws. Maybe not ideal, but it doesn't cause any problems. Poise is ok.. not perfect.. but I had so many issues with the watch that I decided to accept it. It's a 90-year-old watch. Delta is around 40 seconds.   
    • I think it is friction fit, there are tools to remove them, cheaper versions are available. You could try adapting some pliers, see my crap drawing.  The pushers are available in various sizes, you could measure once the tube is removed. 
    • The entry jewel's not as bad but seems still too much lock. I do epilame the escape wheel and pallet jewels, then run dry for about 15 minutes, then put 9415 in exit jewel very little at a time and check with backlight how the oil's distributed.  Another question is about capped escape wheels. Should I somehow wear the epilame off the pivots before installing the wheel? I normally let the escape wheel run dry for that said 15 minutes when there's no cap jewel.
    • Sometimes there's a certain place under the bezel where the case knife is supposed to be placed. In this borrowed pic there's a small crack at 3 o'clock. 
    • Hi my fellow forum addicts, I'm writing this as I seem to have a hole in my knowledge (probably one of many!) I seem to have a horrible time removing bezels from watches. I am talking about the rotating type on sports/diving watches. I see many videos where the guy on screen barely inserts the case knife under the bezel and with no effort it pops off easily, then at the end it clicks back into place by hand with no effort. I am sure that part of this is due to skillful video editing, but I seem to wrestle with them, I have tried case knives and  even when using the tool below, I tighten it up in several positions and nothing happens. On a many occasions I have even warped the bezel in my attempts to remove it. Similarly, I have issues replacing bezels after cleaning etc. and often they have to be replaced using a press tool and inevitably are far too tight and will not rotate or loose to the point where they fall off or loose their click (perhaps due to micro warping when I tried to remove??). It is now to the point where I am actually avoiding watches with bezels as my success rate with them is terrible......please help!! In short I am asking: What am I doing wrong? What is the best method for removing bezels - how do you do it? What is the best method for replacing bezels - how do you do it? Any tips or tricks? Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...