Jump to content

What is wrong with this?


oldhippy

Recommended Posts

Exclusing the filth I'll start with:

Where are the feet / base for the case, it suren't cant just sit on that brass plate.

Plus the teeth on the mainspring barrel look to all be chewed up, so I'm sure there will be damage to otehr wheels we can't see.

That's a delineate 'Don't buy' one unless you want a lot of work and pain.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some of the mainspring barrel teeth have been completely stripped and replaced with steel pins and not very well they are unevenly spaced and too small it would make the transfer of power from the mainspring uneven and would be impossible to get it to keep good time coupled with the fact its a cylinder escapement. I don't think the handle is the original it seems to have been bent to fit  and it should have small bun feet .It's a complete dog at £250.00

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The spring barrel is stuffed, the shaft on the pinnion that comes off the spring barrel has been sleeved with a brass tube, it also looks like the wheel on that pinnion has had all the tips striped off. The top plate looks like it is not original due to the cut out for the glass not square. The knob on the time adjustment should not be there, and the door looks to have the pin missing at the bottom given the angle it is at when open.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This clock has had some very poor/bad repairs. The thing I was hoping you would spot was the bottom of the case is missing. Tmuir got that. JimmyD the brass sleeve is correct it is friction tight and that is how the hands operate, it looks as if it has been pinched to tighten it. The barrel is a complete mess.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, GregC said:

Wow, you guys have eyes like hawks. All I saw was the barrel teeth and the door issue. 

The door could be just one of the holes or pin has worn. Its not a big thing. Its all down to experience. I have roughly 30 years of it  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • All Done, Here are the finished pictures: This one shows the generic "one-size-fits-all" base which accepts the bespoke rings - notice that the parametric movement OD (27.40 mm) automatically prints on the ring 🙂 From another angle: Here is the ring about to go into the base: And finally the base and ring together: Here it is next to a pen for scale: On my system with 20% fill each ring will take about 18 mins to print, but I am sure this could be optimised: Here is the screenshot of the spreadsheet in FreeCAD, you just need to change one value to create the ring in cell C3, (the base doesn't need any changes). I'll upload the files to printables in due course, but here whey are as a fake pdf, please change the .pdf to .zip to make the file work once downloaded: Modular Movement Holder.pdf Any feedback welcome!     I'm also going to make a parametric ring insert for rectangular/oval movements - but I just finished a parent teacher evening so too tired now 🙂  
    • I'm going to give that a go next time, thanks for a great idea @rossjackson01 One of my students uses this tool and swears by it https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/wheel-hand-roller-remover-bergeon?code=W1851 which is very like getting two sticks of pegwood under the wheel and rolling them in your fingers so they create a slight prying from underneath motion, I suppose. Maybe bind one end of the two sticks of pegwood so they are like tweezers.
    • Thank you. I spent a lot of time on that.   It never ceases to amaze me that there are so many slight adjustments that can be made to the chronograph mechanism through setting the eccentric studs to get them all to a concerto, like an orchestra with everything in time and to its most optimum. Understanding that setting one stud to the desired effect may throw another out is the fun of working on vintage chronographs. Great pic of the 3133 dart tooth interaction and tilt of the tooth. I love working on 3133s. Slightly better than the 7733 in my opinion and you get a date at 6!
    • Thanks Richard The stem is 0.6mm wide. At least the part that the crown goes onto. Is that enough info to order a new stem and crown and look a pics of the stem so check that the part that goes into the keyless works matches the one I have? Asking out of ignorance! Cheers, Nick
    • Probably Chinese, you can measure the stem you have. 
×
×
  • Create New...