Is there a 'golden rule' relating to relocating a hairspring onto a balance staff with regards to getting zero beat error after it has been removed for attention. I usually take pics or use marker pen but sometime forget!
Hi all. I have a question about the fragility of hairsprings. I’m completely new to watch repair, and have started by regulating my mechanical watches (Seiko 7S26 and Orient F6922 movements). While adjusting the rate with a wooden dowel oriented parallel to the balance wheel, I have accidentally lightly grazed the hairspring. It was enough pressure to stop the balance wheel, but there appear to be no negative consequences. Both watches keep great time and have good positional accuracy. And according to my timegrapher the beat error and amplitude were not affected.
So should I just chalk this up to good luck? Or could there be lurking damage I’m not seeing?
I received a lys Longines 5L for cleaning. Upon opening the case, I saw some surprises under the balance bridge.
I have outlined my steps on how I uncoil a tangled hairspring in hopes that others can benefit by this method.
I’m a new member and new to this ‘hobby’. This site seems to be where it’s happening.
my very first attempt is with a BFG 866 which I have stripped cleaned and rebuilt. Not applied any oils or greases yet as I plan to do this a few times. However... I have noticed that the hairspring has come detached from the ‘cock’ plate? I cannot see nor find how this is reattached... is this broken?
Any guidance is much appreciated.
I need help with removing and then putting back in a hairspring that has a friction fit stud. I know there is a special tool one can use for this purpose. Does anyone have any pictures and know who might have made it? Can anyone "walk me through" how to remove and replace a hairspring without using the tool? Thanks!
I often see it on the forum and see you reply to others so I learned. I have already purchased the oil for the c7121 movement from the parts manufacturer. After I have tested it, I will talk to you about the situation.
I would imagine decreased amplitude if applied to fourth or escape wheel, but i noticed hardly any difference with the 3rd wheel in most cases so i think thick oil would be the proper lubrication here in most cases. My question is why would Seiko make the distinction between capped and uncapped jewels? Why on the same wheel apply thick oil on the uncapped end and thin oil on the capped end? Is there some rule against applying thick oil to capped jewels that I haven't heard about?
Just noticed that Mark Lovick uses thin oil (Moebius 9010) for the 3rd wheel in his ETA 2824-2 service video (@8:58). This goes against the recommendation of the ETA technical sheet for the 2824-2, but I believe he does so for a reason. If you read this Mark your comment would be appreciated!
While on the topic; what would the effect of using a thick oil be when applied to a pivot where we'd usually apply a thin oil, such as the escape wheel?
Just to update: I got about a tablespoon of shellac flakes from my BHI DLC assessor, and they work great. I just put a tiny chip of it on top of the pallet, heat it until it becomes semi-fluid and spread it to the right places with a sharpened oiler. Then heat a bit more so that it flows out nicely.
I think one tablespoon will fix a lifetime of pallets.. All the other shellacs I have I'll use for cementing workpieces etc.