Jump to content

Rotor Removal


Recommended Posts

Could someone please give me some guidance on how to remove the rotor from this ETA 2892-2  movement. I dont want to go in heavy handed as these gilt movement damage easily. Many thanks.  Chris...          

 

P1010008.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not familiar with the movement, but my guess would be that there's a (isn't that) special tool that has three posts to fit in the three holes at the top of the rotor. You probably hold the rotor and loosen the hold-down disc. Just a WAG, and probably what you are hoping against. Good luck.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To remove the beaing you need a special tool but just to remove the rotor you just take of the three screws holding the automatic mechanism, turn it around and unscrew three small screws on the underside and the rotor gets loose..
Could take a couple of shots for you if you wish..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks all but the price of the Horotec tool is a bit prohibitive... I have managed to free it with a very sharp piece of peg wood in one of the cut outs and push it round..The bearing is OK its just that the balance needs some work and you cant remove it with the rotor in place.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You really should've inquired about that before you went ahead and undid that bearing. As I'm sure you'll find out soon if you didn't need that expensive tool before you'll need it now. Basically impossible to remount the bearing without it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've not taken the bearing out of the rotor because it seems to be ok...A more pressing problem is that now Ive taken the balance out there seems to be no power arriving at the escapement despite winding...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, chrisdt said:

Thanks all but the price of the Horotec tool is a bit prohibitive... I have managed to free it with a very sharp piece of peg wood in one of the cut outs and push it round..The bearing is OK its just that the balance needs some work and you cant remove it with the rotor in place.

 

1 hour ago, chrisdt said:

I've not taken the bearing out of the rotor because it seems to be ok...A more pressing problem is that now Ive taken the balance out there seems to be no power arriving at the escapement despite winding...

Did you not remove the ring with the cutouts by pushing on the cutouts and rotating it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thought I had a 2892-2 lying around but the 2892A2 is almost the same just slighly upgraded.
So to avoid confusion I've taken some pictures to show how to reach the balance and where to remove the three small screws to remove the rotor.
Picture 1 and 2 shows the three screws which to remove so the winding mechanism can be removed.

On picture 3 you can see the three small screws to be removed if you want to take off the rotor without removing the bearing.
Picture 4 reveals the balance, it will only swing with the stem in position 1. Fully pushed in.
Picture 5 is how i guess you check the power transfer from the drivetrain, you have to wiggle the pallet fork otherwise nothing will happen.

If you gently wiggle the pallet fork and nothing happens you have an fault somewhere in the drivetrain.

Screw1.jpg

Screw2&3.jpg

Rotor.jpg

Balance.jpg

BalanceOff.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

32 minutes ago, CaptCalvin said:

 

Did you not remove the ring with the cutouts by pushing on the cutouts and rotating it?

I did that very carefully so as not to scratch the rotor. The rotor removed (bearing still on the movement) so I could work on the balance but when I got to that stage as HSL says very lethargic movement from the pallet fork. So its a tear down job

Link to comment
Share on other sites

57 minutes ago, watchweasol said:

Hi Chris   find enclosed tech sheet might be of some use . Lack of power at the escapement look back in the train for a jam (dirt) broken or bent pivots mainspring broke there are many reasons but it sounds like a tear down job  good luck

774_ETA 2892-2NEWSmaller.pdf 2.14 MB · 1 download

Its a tear down job watchweasel...Thats the easy bit Re assembly is not quite so simple.

Thanks a lot for the PDF which is most helpful

Link to comment
Share on other sites

27 minutes ago, HSL said:

Thought I had a 2892-2 lying around but the 2892A2 is almost the same just slighly upgraded.
So to avoid confusion I've taken some pictures to show how to reach the balance and where to remove the three small screws to remove the rotor.
Picture 1 and 2 shows the three screws which to remove so the winding mechanism can be removed.

On picture 3 you can see the three small screws to be removed if you want to take off the rotor without removing the bearing.
Picture 4 reveals the balance, it will only swing with the stem in position 1. Fully pushed in.
Picture 5 is how i guess you check the power transfer from the drivetrain, you have to wiggle the pallet fork otherwise nothing will happen.

If you gently wiggle the pallet fork and nothing happens you have an fault somewhere in the drivetrain.

Screw1.jpg

Screw2&3.jpg

Rotor.jpg

Balance.jpg

BalanceOff.jpg

Thanks HSL for your pics..I tried to short cut the work by removing the rotor whilst leaving the bearing on the movement but the lack of power to the pallet fork indicates something more sinister.

Chris

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

27 minutes ago, chrisdt said:

I did that very carefully so as not to scratch the rotor. The rotor removed (bearing still on the movement) so I could work on the balance but when I got to that stage as HSL says very lethargic movement from the pallet fork. So its a tear down job

That's what I was saying. That ring holds the bearing to the rotor. Try putting that ring back. I think you'll find it very difficult.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, CaptCalvin said:

That's what I was saying. That ring holds the bearing to the rotor. Try putting that ring back. I think you'll find it very difficult.

Well I won't try until I've sorted all the other problems out. If its too difficult I might try making a tool or perhaps purchasing the chinese version. Thanks for your assistance .

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Well done, let us know how you get on with the citizen. 
    • @Neverenoughwatches Rich, I can only agree with you wholeheartedly. I spend a lot of time here learning all sorts and trying to make any little contribution to help others I can. Nothing can last forever and I wish I could do more to contribute to the forum financially and any other support I could.   Tom
    • This forum is a big part of my life. When I retired from horology many years ago due to poor health I missed what I had trained for. On here I can still do my bit in helping and advising others and have a little fun as well.  
    • First thing this morning, make coffee, second, check the forum.  I would really miss the forum, not on any social media, not interested in telling the world what I had for breakfast!!! I do consider most of the regulars friends and would wonder what had happened if they stopped posting. 
    • Hi all Thought I'd show my small and trying to keep under control watch collection! Apart from the Enicar all were under £12! At least if I destroy them in the process then I won't be too worse off. A few pics to start off with First of all my first attempt. A Thuya pocket watch. It was only running face down and would stop when vertical. So now it still works face down and only slows down when vertical so at least an improvement! 😄  I only have a generic watch oil at the mo so that won't help but I'm hoping to get some more appropriate oils in a couple of months for my birthday. I did have to get a crystal for it since it didn't come with one. It didn't look as though it would friction fit (and I don't have a crystal press in any case) so I glued it to the case with PVA. So far so good. Next up above are a sekonda and citizen automatic. Both non runners. Both with broken balance wheels amongst other things. I'm hopeful the citizen will start when I get the new one I ordered but the sekonda is being kept for spares and trial of new techniques. And finally the Enicar and the timemaster. Both running when I got them. I wanted to get running watches so that at least I stood a fighting chance of still having a running watch after the service! It was all going well on the Enicar until I dropped the balance wheel during reassembly...😔. Unfortunately they are quite expensive to get so for now I'll won't do anything with it but I would like to fix it at one point. The timemaster is still running (yeah!) but I managed to break a dial foot during the deassembly. First repair attempt failed so now I am looking at soldering it back on... So there we go. My initial foray into this great hobby. Thanks for sticking with this tale so far.  I'm hoping that once the balance wheel arrives for the citizen I will be able to say I bought a non runner and fixed it! So fingers crossed. Thanks for looking, Nick
×
×
  • Create New...