Jump to content

Hermle 130-627


Mattaphysics

Recommended Posts

I got this Elgin clock with the floating balance and i love it. The problem I'm having is the balance is only rotating maybe 90° and the chime is muffled. I've tried adjusting it it seems like it needs more than an adjustment. And I'm unsure why the chime is so weak. I thought maybe it was because the hammers were resting on the rods but i bent them a little and that didn't work all that well. It chimed a bit louder but not that much. Any suggestions?b137cea681cd445abd4a61e7d18c42cd.jpg

 

Sent from my LM-X210CM using Tapatalk

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From what I can see it looks very dry I don’t see any oil. Have you let the springs down and checked for wear. Not the best of metal in these, its quite soft compared to movement long ago. With the floating balance, make sure it is clean at the ends, normally jewelled at each end. A drop of watch oil in the jewels, then work the balance up and down a few time, the balance must be free. Clock oil on all moving parts this includes the pallet pins and escape wheel teeth. If the clock is cleaned and the springs, I think you will see a big change in the action of the chimes and balance.    

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 Hi  Check the gong hammer assembly is free,  lift each individual hammer and check that it drops smartly not in slow motion,  It they are sticky dfismantle and free off.    Remove the floating balance unit and clean in Alchohol or the like,  There is a good explanation on the floating balance on the net by Howard Millar.   I will have a look in the Hermle Manual regarding your mode.  l do like Hermle clocks very well made.  Then Proceed as explained by Old Hippy,  sound advise as always.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, so I've finally got what i needed to clean this bugger. So how do i get to the dial? I'm utterly confused. The glass have any way of sliding or opening on any way i can see. There doesn't seem to be a way to get to it from the back unless you can tell? e16bc7db3a16b23d27ea0f7f31c04b3f.jpg4842b959ba09da2e87a6694805eb95a8.jpge4393b24027e07070bb4146ddf042f72.jpg1574dc39af73a506e5ab79a3579c173d.jpg94a2b4b895b07561c7862a170e4750f3.jpg

Sent from my LM-X210CM using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Remove the hands and all the screws from the brackets in the back and the movement should just come out.  
There's a piece of glass in the front on the other side of the hands. It moves but not far enough one way or the other to get it out. There's nothing that looks like one piece will move, i removed the chime rod to see if it hides anything but no. I cannot for the life of me figure this out.

Sent from my LM-X210CM using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi  I think Old Hippy is right.  Its what is called a bracket clock as they used to stand on ornate wall brackets.  The top looks solid so the only other way in is from the bottom. The bun feet should unscrew and probably expose the fixing screws for the bottom.    :pulling-hair-out:good luck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok so i saw there were screws on the bottom near the feet and I kind of thought they were useless until I removed them and the bottom fell off. Than you gents so much. I'm cleaning out as we speak. So i only oil tyre jewel hole of the floating balance with watch oil right? Then use watch oil on the pallets and escape wheel?

Sent from my LM-X210CM using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok. Now I'm all set but the balance seems off. Like its not aligned or something. It doesn't swing free but is caught during its rotation. Again this thing has me flabbergasted. How does it need to be aligned? I've tried moving the collet to move the roller to one side then the other but it's not working.0d7fa87b9a0dc9f1bf0dee5628694ae1.jpg

Sent from my LM-X210CM using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi  Try removing all power and letting the balance rest then take note of its position like a watch it should be lying central. If it is with a small brush sweep the balance and check its rotation with no power.  alernativly remove the balance assy and check for smooth rotation, apply some power to the movement and check the action of the fork assy for a snappy action. Its a process of elimination, once setup ok they are usually very reliable. I have worked on both the Hermle and Smiths versions and only had regulation problems on one of them   There are some good descriptions on the workings of the floating balance on the net

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I will advice to share the idea first here before doeing something to the movement
    • When you move the index which changes the timing from an extreme fast to an extreme slow, is there a big change in beat error? Obviously there will be a big change in timing. If there is a big difference in BE then this is strongly inferring the the end-curve of the hairspring isn't set correctly or/and the collet is central to the jewel on the balance cock, because the hairspring that is breathing between the curb pin and boot is being pushed and/or pulled when you move the index from left to right. Also not having the hairspring set correctly can dramatically reduce the amplitude. A quick check is to take power off the movement and move the index from extreme fast to slow and with high magnification see if the hairspring sits nicely between the curb pin and boot at all times (give the balance a spin and watch the hairspring - has it got total freedom?) or if it moves by being pushed or pulled by the curb pin or boot. I'm guessing it is the latter. I think that may be a possibility to your problem.
    • I can't get windingstens.com to open but you need a  few measurements. 
    • All Done, Here are the finished pictures: This one shows the generic "one-size-fits-all" base which accepts the bespoke rings - notice that the parametric movement OD (27.40 mm) automatically prints on the ring 🙂 From another angle: Here is the ring about to go into the base: And finally the base and ring together: Here it is next to a pen for scale: On my system with 20% fill each ring will take about 18 mins to print, but I am sure this could be optimised: Here is the screenshot of the spreadsheet in FreeCAD, you just need to change one value to create the ring in cell C3, (the base doesn't need any changes). I just uploaded the files to printables link here, but also include  here as a fake pdf, please change the .pdf to .zip to make the file work once downloaded: Modular Movement Holder.pdf Any feedback welcome!     I'm also going to make a parametric ring insert for rectangular/oval movements - but I just finished a parent teacher evening so too tired now 🙂  
×
×
  • Create New...