Jump to content
  • 0

How do I select the correct replacement glass


Question

I have narrowed down the glass for my Roamer Vanguard to the 311802 on roamers chart shown below as X7311 but am having trouble selecting the correct replacement from the many different ones on the cousins site, can any one point me in the right direction please as there isnt a cross reference for this number I can find.

image.thumb.png.dd126499cc79cd8ded7ce2b6c31ce1bf.png

The current glass has a silver coloured metal ring fitted inside and has the following dimensions

OD = 30.60 mm

ID = 27.95

Height 4.34 mm

Thickness = 1.22 - 1.26 mm varies over the surface of the glass, the middle being the thinnest

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

4 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0

With a ring inside the crystal this is an armed tension type. The Sternnkreuz 'G22' catalogue covers these which you can download at http://www.sternkreuz.de/accordion/assets/Sternkreuz_Gesamtkatalog G22.pdf

Whilst for the Sternkreuz 'ST'' range Roamer does have some specific citations (p25), for the 'ATC' range you need none are mentioned. Almost certainly therefore you'll be fine with a standard ATC crystal that meets your measurements.

The usual advice is to go 0.1 larger than the outside diameter measurement you've taken. This means when you release the crystal, after it has been gently 'squeezed' in the claw removal/fitting tool, it makes a nice tight fit.

Since you're using Cousins your best bet is going to therefore be https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/standard-chrome-ringed-glass-atc# and the 30.7mm size.  

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

No problem ... and I agree this isn't always the easiest subject - especially where dimensions like dome heights aren't often mentioned!

I hope the 30.7 works out. I should have qualified my original reply with a dependency on how tight your existing 30.6 is for that 0.1 increase suggestion. If it's already a very tight fit then the 30.6 might have been okay but usually the 0.1 increase over a measured outside diameter is a useful guideline. If you've already ordered then you can always take some fine abrasive paper and gently take away any fraction off the 30.7 should this be necessary!

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

After the original removal with the claw tool, the crystal I removed was a tight press fit by hand and popped out again with gentle pressure from inside, so I think your idea of the extra 0.1 mm oversize should make it a good fit once in place.

I'll post back again once I have the crystal in hand and fitted into the case.

Link to post
Share on other sites


  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I think Earl Gray is an acquired taste. I hated it when I first tried it. Now I find it tolerable. Eventually I might find it ok. 😂 But what do you think of tea used in confections and other foods. Like matcha cakes 😖, Earl Gray cheesecake 🤪, duck smoked with tea leaves 🤔, etc...?
    • Hello Not really a watch question, however I thought I would it it a try. I have a couple of Silver Beer Mugs that are tarnished and all I have to clean them with is the L & R Ultrasonic Watch Cleaning Solution (ammoniated) and a ultrasonic machine. I also have the L & R Ultrasonic Watch Cleaning Solution and an Ultrasonic machine. Does anyone know if I can use these two products on the silver beer mugs or should I get another type of cleaner> Also should I be diluting the cleaning and rinse solutions?  Thanks in advance for any help that can be provided. Michael
    • Hi JDM - Thanks for the detailed reply. The Bezel only looks like a rotating time ring, but it's just a "faux" divers watch, only rated to 50m. I think the Seiko "Solar Power" version actually had a rotating ring and Tritium on the hands and numbers and was rated to 200m or something. But, the bezel is fixed. Also, there are no "indent" or any indication that you could use a Snap Back knife to open the bezel. If this is not indeed a screw off bezel (using a screw type base wrench), then a 4 blade bezel tool is likely the only thing that will remove it. Then I'll need to figure out how the stem is removed so I can remove the whole movement to get to the Cap which I assume is underneath. Other owners on some other watch forums have reported the same experience I had with my Lorus/ Seiko 851 model, the Capacitor fails after only 8 to 10 years and nothing like the "promised" 80 years (Life Time Warranty they refuse to obey). Quite a few owners wrote that they had the Capacitor replaced, but no details on HOW. Read my response above to "watchweasol". There's been some conflict about which capacitor to use as well since the original 2023 24T / MT920 was discontinued 30 years ago (probably the reason all these Lorus Solar watch never met the 80-year promise. Supposedly the replacement Cap is a 3023 24T now. The word in some forums is that this Maxell Cap will last 30 to 40 years. The Seiko Kenetic watches supposedly also use this same Capacitor. Have you ever worked on the Seiko Solar version of this Lorus? Thanks.    
    • @watchweasol - I  know that was the Seiko "company line" for both the Seiko and Lorus branded "Solar Power" versions, but there are an awful lot of folks that bought both and found the Capacitor died, like mine, only after 8 to 10 years and did have the Capacitor replaced with at first the original 2023 24T version and then the 3023 24T, which is apparently a much longer lived replacement. Seiko's "promise" of an 80-year life for this Capacitor was all hooey and likely the reason Seiko quickly dropped both their own branded model and the Lorus ones after just 10 years on the market. Both Seiko and Lorus (who is no longer in North America) refuse to honor the "life time" warranty. One of the reasons I now trust Casio more than Seiko for warranty promises. The movement in the Lorus is literally the exact same one that was in the 3 "Solar Power" Seiko mens models, a Seiko NA tech admitted that to me almost 30 years ago when mine stopped charging. I bought it new in 1986 or 87, and I still have the original paper manual and box and "Life Time Warranty" card (good for nuthin'). I've been a watch and clock "collector" since a teenager, prefer early American pocket watches, but who doesn't love early American MADE and Japanese and Swiss made wristwatches? So I've also collected all the tools a watch and clock tech uses, many pretty vintage too, and learned how to work to a certain degree on most any watch or clock, restoring and fixing, to my limits. I already have that (another version) Bezel removing tool, am just trying to confirm that the bezel is NOT a screw on, or absolutely IS a press-fit. Was hoping to find someone that has either worked on the Lorus version or the sort of same looking Seiko versions that also had the one-piece "tub" body. The Bezel only looks like a rotating time ring, but it's just a "faux" divers watch, only rated to 50m. I think the Seiko version actually had a rotating ring and Tritium on the hands and numbers and was rated to 200m or something. This Lorus/Seiko is an odd-ball and there is absolutely no repair info on them, so that makes me want to fix it more myself.
    • Very, very nice production.  Really outstanding walkthrough!
×
×
  • Create New...