To the workshop, today I have received this fine old cleaning machine from Germany.
The machine is manufactured by VEB Elektromeschanik in Glashütte.
The machine is a type of AUII and is fully automated. It is about 30 cm. In diameter and 52 cm. high. Weight approx. 30 kilos.
The machine is from 1979 and the gray paint is intact everywhere. In addition to the complete holder and basket on the machine, 8 other curves included. Two of them also with holder. Although DHL and Post Norden have given it a massive transport, everything is all right and it seems like it's going to be! These machines are often sold at ebay.de. It also exists in a version that is not automatic!
Hi all, long time lurker, first time poster
I've recently picked up an old Brenray cleaning machine that I want to get back in action. It's actually working perfectly - the motor spins and the heater heats up. However, it's very dirty and the paint is peeling off. I'm going to do a full clean, paint strip and repaint. I've had a look at a few of the older posts on this, so have an idea where I'm heading (I didn't want to hijack one of them!).
My main question regards the heating plate. There is a wired heating disc sandwiched between two heating square metal plates (iron I presume) with a bolt and nuts holding the three pieces together and securing it to the floor of the machine. As I said, the plate works and heats up, but the two plates, bolt and nuts are rusted solid. I sheared the end of the bolt off while trying to get the nut holding it to the floor off. A soak in deruster/wd40, replace the bolt, clean the plates and replace is one plan (please correct me if you think this might cause problems or damage the heating plate). The other is to get a replacement Elma heating pad which, at 80mm is about the same size. My question is this - will I need to get new metal (iron?) plates to reform the sandwich, or can that new plate go in on its own?
Also, the motor is running well, but it is filthy. What is the best way to approach this - I'm utterly ignorant here, so any tips or advice will be very much appreciated! I'll post some pics as I go along if people want to follow the process!
Thanks for reading!
Another question from a newbie: I have a rotating cleaning machine with three jars. In the first jar I have Sambol Platina 1:20, in the second jar Elma reinigungskonzentrat 1:9 for rinsing and in the third jar sterilized water. Thereafter the basket goes in the heater chamber.
My issue for now is that the first jar completely foams up. The jar is 3/5 full with the solvent but becomes completely foamed up. Is this a problem with the solvent or is it not actually a problem? I got this solvent from watch-tool.de
I know Mark has one of these machines, I recently purchased one myself, and its in dire need of restoring. I have stripped it down, and wish to rewire it and replace the ageing motor speed switch with a modern alternative, so could really do with a wiring diagram if anyone has one?
The only markings on the movement are the words Swiss Made, 15 Jewels and a small 5 under the balance arm. I don't currently have a very accurate caliper but I think it is 34.7mm rather than 36.4 as the Unitas 6497 movement wouldn't fit. Here is a picture of the dial side but I haven't seen any writing on it. I do not believe that the movement has ever been changed since it was made in around the 1930s.
I have a nice little carriage clock in for service, very good shape, except for over 0.30mm sideshake of the barrel arbor in the barrel. Thought I would show how I bush these; it seems they often get overlooked or just skipped as they are a little more fussy than just bushing a plate. I measure everything up, then remove the boss in the barrel, and make a bushing that fits from the inside and is stepped, replacing the boss. This way it's captive, and doesn't require a big interference fit to get seated and stay. I turn up the bushing with a boring tool in the lathe, doing the outside as well (running in reverse of course), then do the barrel opening with the same tool. It's a pretty quick process once you have the moves down!
Well the movement is Unitas, but they did make many many different calibers. What is the exact diameter of the movement, and can you get a pic of the dial side? Are there no markings near the balance cock or on the dial side? If not it will take some digging but you will probably find it on Ranfft's site.
I must admit I have never even clapped eyes on one like that, but my gut feeling is that you back off the key in the opposite direction to winding, and it will unscrew, then undo the knurled bolt, and pull on it, and *something* should slide out of something else.
The chances that I am completely wrong however are around 50%
EDIT: Wow.. Barographs are expensive when new.. https://www.metcheck.co.uk/collections/barographs
. I'll need to keep an eye out for one, they look pretty interesting, similar to clockwork seismograph recorders .
Thank you but I should have mentioned before, tried a Unitas 6497 clone movement to see if it was the correct size. The gears are far finer and the escape wheel teeth are the wrong size and it was slightly too short.
It has a Swiss Lever escapement as far as I can tell and is about 4.5mm in height. If it helps the mainspring barrel is the size of the winding gear on the top and seems to be fully attached to it.