To the workshop, today I have received this fine old cleaning machine from Germany.
The machine is manufactured by VEB Elektromeschanik in Glashütte.
The machine is a type of AUII and is fully automated. It is about 30 cm. In diameter and 52 cm. high. Weight approx. 30 kilos.
The machine is from 1979 and the gray paint is intact everywhere. In addition to the complete holder and basket on the machine, 8 other curves included. Two of them also with holder. Although DHL and Post Norden have given it a massive transport, everything is all right and it seems like it's going to be! These machines are often sold at ebay.de. It also exists in a version that is not automatic!
Hi all, long time lurker, first time poster
I've recently picked up an old Brenray cleaning machine that I want to get back in action. It's actually working perfectly - the motor spins and the heater heats up. However, it's very dirty and the paint is peeling off. I'm going to do a full clean, paint strip and repaint. I've had a look at a few of the older posts on this, so have an idea where I'm heading (I didn't want to hijack one of them!).
My main question regards the heating plate. There is a wired heating disc sandwiched between two heating square metal plates (iron I presume) with a bolt and nuts holding the three pieces together and securing it to the floor of the machine. As I said, the plate works and heats up, but the two plates, bolt and nuts are rusted solid. I sheared the end of the bolt off while trying to get the nut holding it to the floor off. A soak in deruster/wd40, replace the bolt, clean the plates and replace is one plan (please correct me if you think this might cause problems or damage the heating plate). The other is to get a replacement Elma heating pad which, at 80mm is about the same size. My question is this - will I need to get new metal (iron?) plates to reform the sandwich, or can that new plate go in on its own?
Also, the motor is running well, but it is filthy. What is the best way to approach this - I'm utterly ignorant here, so any tips or advice will be very much appreciated! I'll post some pics as I go along if people want to follow the process!
Thanks for reading!
Another question from a newbie: I have a rotating cleaning machine with three jars. In the first jar I have Sambol Platina 1:20, in the second jar Elma reinigungskonzentrat 1:9 for rinsing and in the third jar sterilized water. Thereafter the basket goes in the heater chamber.
My issue for now is that the first jar completely foams up. The jar is 3/5 full with the solvent but becomes completely foamed up. Is this a problem with the solvent or is it not actually a problem? I got this solvent from watch-tool.de
I know Mark has one of these machines, I recently purchased one myself, and its in dire need of restoring. I have stripped it down, and wish to rewire it and replace the ageing motor speed switch with a modern alternative, so could really do with a wiring diagram if anyone has one?
I've made a few watch tools which are available on my thingiverse here.
Simple design movement holders which I like as they're easy to make in online cad software to whatever size you require and hold the movements firmly and no risk of marking them or other damage.
I've just measured some of the generic shepherds crook springs that you can get from Cousins: https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/shepherds-hook-springs-wristwatch
Whilst these of course aren't click springs, they do come in a variety of widths ... including the 0.15mm you need. They're also quite large so should give enough material to perhaps adapt / shape for the click spring you need. They're also inexpensive so might be worth a punt if you come up blank through other routes. Just an idea...
Yes the loose pin is a guide pin from a bridge, but from which you have to find out your self.
I'm still pussled about that tube in the jewel, how is it supposed the lubrication comes on to the wheel pivot from the oil cup?