To the workshop, today I have received this fine old cleaning machine from Germany.
The machine is manufactured by VEB Elektromeschanik in Glashütte.
The machine is a type of AUII and is fully automated. It is about 30 cm. In diameter and 52 cm. high. Weight approx. 30 kilos.
The machine is from 1979 and the gray paint is intact everywhere. In addition to the complete holder and basket on the machine, 8 other curves included. Two of them also with holder. Although DHL and Post Norden have given it a massive transport, everything is all right and it seems like it's going to be! These machines are often sold at ebay.de. It also exists in a version that is not automatic!
Hi all, long time lurker, first time poster
I've recently picked up an old Brenray cleaning machine that I want to get back in action. It's actually working perfectly - the motor spins and the heater heats up. However, it's very dirty and the paint is peeling off. I'm going to do a full clean, paint strip and repaint. I've had a look at a few of the older posts on this, so have an idea where I'm heading (I didn't want to hijack one of them!).
My main question regards the heating plate. There is a wired heating disc sandwiched between two heating square metal plates (iron I presume) with a bolt and nuts holding the three pieces together and securing it to the floor of the machine. As I said, the plate works and heats up, but the two plates, bolt and nuts are rusted solid. I sheared the end of the bolt off while trying to get the nut holding it to the floor off. A soak in deruster/wd40, replace the bolt, clean the plates and replace is one plan (please correct me if you think this might cause problems or damage the heating plate). The other is to get a replacement Elma heating pad which, at 80mm is about the same size. My question is this - will I need to get new metal (iron?) plates to reform the sandwich, or can that new plate go in on its own?
Also, the motor is running well, but it is filthy. What is the best way to approach this - I'm utterly ignorant here, so any tips or advice will be very much appreciated! I'll post some pics as I go along if people want to follow the process!
Thanks for reading!
Another question from a newbie: I have a rotating cleaning machine with three jars. In the first jar I have Sambol Platina 1:20, in the second jar Elma reinigungskonzentrat 1:9 for rinsing and in the third jar sterilized water. Thereafter the basket goes in the heater chamber.
My issue for now is that the first jar completely foams up. The jar is 3/5 full with the solvent but becomes completely foamed up. Is this a problem with the solvent or is it not actually a problem? I got this solvent from watch-tool.de
I know Mark has one of these machines, I recently purchased one myself, and its in dire need of restoring. I have stripped it down, and wish to rewire it and replace the ageing motor speed switch with a modern alternative, so could really do with a wiring diagram if anyone has one?
It seems an odd choice, but it may not do harm.
imo there is no reason to use a multiweight oil, but maybe there are good reasons I missed. I also don't see a reason to use a synthetic oil, won't hurt, but they are more money. Regular oils don't break down until 270F - there's some serious issues if that's a factor with a lathe . It seems a topic full of hyperbole and little expertise; there's one horology oil report claiming synthetic oils don't contain hydrocarbons! What nonsense..
Multiweight oil are designed for internal combustion engines where there's a big temperature swing. The low initial viscosity helps get oil pressure built up quickly and makes cold cranking easier. But the engine quickly gets up 220F or so and the oil operates at its high viscosity (oil viscosity is determined at a set temp, i.e. an oil of X viscosity means its X at 40C, it will have a very different viscosity at 110C).
Your lathe just doesn't go through the same temp swings, say -40 to +220 n the dead of winter so I don't see how a multigrade makes any sense....except maybe because is readily available?
In general with machines, motor oil is really frowned on because of the additives and detergents. They're are needed do deal with combustion, but not wanted in a gearbox/bearing bath. Watchmakers lathes are a total loss system so these objections I don't think matter much, but its worth mentioning in the context of machine tools and oils.
With a 0W20 run a low temps, you're really only going to see the "0". The zero isn't really zero, its just small, maybe the equivalent to ISO 3 or maybe 4. ( 0 Viscosity is superfluidity, liquid helium laboratory stuff).
So what really matters? That its a clean mineral oil (i.e. hydraulic oil) and of the right viscosity (singular)
So that's the real concern I had, Is ISO 3 or 4 enough? I'd have guessed no, but maybe. Most of these lathes don't come with a viscosity recommendation. Clock oils often recommended are afaik much higher than 3-4 but (snake?) oil marketing, while full of lofty claims, rarely even states the viscosity! . I suppose it can be overthought, these lathes seem to easily last 100 years with whatever is put into them,. So long as the oil is thick enough to keep the parts separate at speed, its thick enough. Still, i think synthetic and multigrade oils in a plan bearing are, well, just not required.
1970A 200ft Diver just in - missing crown and elapsed time ring. First steps in the restore. Note the Timex caseback tool. The movments began to run on windup but this will still go with a full cleaning and oiling. More to come -