To the workshop, today I have received this fine old cleaning machine from Germany.
The machine is manufactured by VEB Elektromeschanik in Glashütte.
The machine is a type of AUII and is fully automated. It is about 30 cm. In diameter and 52 cm. high. Weight approx. 30 kilos.
The machine is from 1979 and the gray paint is intact everywhere. In addition to the complete holder and basket on the machine, 8 other curves included. Two of them also with holder. Although DHL and Post Norden have given it a massive transport, everything is all right and it seems like it's going to be! These machines are often sold at ebay.de. It also exists in a version that is not automatic!
Hi all, long time lurker, first time poster
I've recently picked up an old Brenray cleaning machine that I want to get back in action. It's actually working perfectly - the motor spins and the heater heats up. However, it's very dirty and the paint is peeling off. I'm going to do a full clean, paint strip and repaint. I've had a look at a few of the older posts on this, so have an idea where I'm heading (I didn't want to hijack one of them!).
My main question regards the heating plate. There is a wired heating disc sandwiched between two heating square metal plates (iron I presume) with a bolt and nuts holding the three pieces together and securing it to the floor of the machine. As I said, the plate works and heats up, but the two plates, bolt and nuts are rusted solid. I sheared the end of the bolt off while trying to get the nut holding it to the floor off. A soak in deruster/wd40, replace the bolt, clean the plates and replace is one plan (please correct me if you think this might cause problems or damage the heating plate). The other is to get a replacement Elma heating pad which, at 80mm is about the same size. My question is this - will I need to get new metal (iron?) plates to reform the sandwich, or can that new plate go in on its own?
Also, the motor is running well, but it is filthy. What is the best way to approach this - I'm utterly ignorant here, so any tips or advice will be very much appreciated! I'll post some pics as I go along if people want to follow the process!
Thanks for reading!
Another question from a newbie: I have a rotating cleaning machine with three jars. In the first jar I have Sambol Platina 1:20, in the second jar Elma reinigungskonzentrat 1:9 for rinsing and in the third jar sterilized water. Thereafter the basket goes in the heater chamber.
My issue for now is that the first jar completely foams up. The jar is 3/5 full with the solvent but becomes completely foamed up. Is this a problem with the solvent or is it not actually a problem? I got this solvent from watch-tool.de
I know Mark has one of these machines, I recently purchased one myself, and its in dire need of restoring. I have stripped it down, and wish to rewire it and replace the ageing motor speed switch with a modern alternative, so could really do with a wiring diagram if anyone has one?
I would imagine decreased amplitude if applied to fourth or escape wheel, but i noticed hardly any difference with the 3rd wheel in most cases so i think thick oil would be the proper lubrication here in most cases. My question is why would Seiko make the distinction between capped and uncapped jewels? Why on the same wheel apply thick oil on the uncapped end and thin oil on the capped end? Is there some rule against applying thick oil to capped jewels that I haven't heard about?
Just noticed that Mark Lovick uses thin oil (Moebius 9010) for the 3rd wheel in his ETA 2824-2 service video (@8:58). This goes against the recommendation of the ETA technical sheet for the 2824-2, but I believe he does so for a reason. If you read this Mark your comment would be appreciated!
While on the topic; what would the effect of using a thick oil be when applied to a pivot where we'd usually apply a thin oil, such as the escape wheel?
Just to update: I got about a tablespoon of shellac flakes from my BHI DLC assessor, and they work great. I just put a tiny chip of it on top of the pallet, heat it until it becomes semi-fluid and spread it to the right places with a sharpened oiler. Then heat a bit more so that it flows out nicely.
I think one tablespoon will fix a lifetime of pallets.. All the other shellacs I have I'll use for cementing workpieces etc.
I'm not sure how up to date that guide is. Pretty much every service manual I come across lubes 4th and escape with thin oil but 3rd with thick oil. Even Seiko agrees, showing thick oil being applied to the uncapped side of the 3rd wheel.