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    • By maclerche
      To the workshop, today I have received this fine old cleaning machine from Germany. 
      The machine is manufactured by VEB Elektromeschanik in Glashütte. 
      The machine is a type of AUII and is fully automated. It is about 30 cm. In diameter and 52 cm. high. Weight approx. 30 kilos. 
      The machine is from 1979 and the gray paint is intact everywhere. In addition to the complete holder and basket on the machine, 8 other curves included. Two of them also with holder. Although DHL and Post Norden have given it a massive transport, everything is all right and it seems like it's going to be! These machines are often sold at ebay.de. It also exists in a version that is not automatic!
       


    • By Hammer2017
      Hi all, long time lurker, first time poster
      I've recently picked up an old Brenray cleaning machine that I want to get back in action. It's actually working perfectly - the motor spins and the heater heats up. However, it's very dirty and the paint is peeling off. I'm going to do a full clean, paint strip and repaint. I've had a look at a few of the older posts on this, so have an idea where I'm heading (I didn't want to hijack one of them!).
      My main question regards the heating plate. There is a wired heating disc sandwiched between two heating square metal plates (iron I presume) with a bolt and nuts holding the three pieces together and securing it to the floor of the machine. As I said, the plate works and heats up, but the two plates, bolt and nuts are rusted solid. I sheared the end of the bolt off while trying to get the nut holding it to the floor off. A soak in deruster/wd40, replace the bolt, clean the plates and replace is one plan (please correct me if you think this might cause problems or damage the heating plate). The other is to get a replacement Elma heating pad which, at 80mm is about the same size. My question is this - will I need to get new metal (iron?) plates to reform the sandwich, or can that new plate go in on its own?
      Also, the motor is running well, but it is filthy. What is the best way to approach this - I'm utterly ignorant here, so any tips or advice will be very much appreciated! I'll post some pics as I go along if people want to follow the process!
      Thanks for reading!
      Mark
    • By Stian
      Hi guys,
      Another question from a newbie: I have a rotating cleaning machine with three jars. In the first jar I have Sambol Platina 1:20, in the second jar Elma reinigungskonzentrat 1:9 for rinsing and in the third jar sterilized water. Thereafter the basket goes in the heater chamber.
      My issue for now is that the first jar completely foams up. The jar is 3/5 full with the solvent but becomes completely foamed up. Is this a problem with the solvent or is it not actually a problem? I got this solvent from watch-tool.de
      Stian
    • By SSTEEL
      I know Mark has one of these machines, I recently purchased one myself, and its in dire need of restoring.  I have stripped it down, and wish to rewire it and replace the ageing motor speed switch with a modern alternative, so could really do with a wiring diagram if anyone has one?
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    • Are you saying they gain the full couple hundred second just for the duration of the workout? Or are you extrapolating the amount of time gained during your work out to a day? If so around how many seconds do you gain just for the duration of the workout? The reason I suggested the test is to make sure it's just knocking and not any other problem like isochronism or hairspring sticking. If the rate doesn't fluctuate significantly before the movement starts knocking then your problem is that you're causing your watches to knock. If it does than it's another problem.  If it's indeed only knocking then depending on how aggressive your movements are, the duration of your workout, and amount of seconds gained during workout it could be normal. Especially on higher amplitude watches if they are subjected to certain repeated aggressive movements they will knock and you will gain a whole bunch of time. All my watches gain anywhere from 3-5 seconds just from vigorously towel drying my hair.
    • Dial looks like a Bombay special but otherwise it looks pretty decent. I've seen much worse. One point is the washer holding the day wheel needs to have the tapered edge facing down to facilitate removal. Its even written on the day disk but maybe English is not their language! Also I dont think Ive seen Green plastic date wheels before? Probably custom printed? Anilv
    • Welcome to the forum.
    • Hi everyone, after watching many watch repair videos by Mark, I decided to join. I'm a retired US Army Soldier, having served 21-1/2 years. I enjoy spending time with my family, fishing, camping in our restored 1976 Monaco Class C motorhome and watching people make beautiful things out of once-ugly things on YouTube. I was married to my first wife, Sherri, for almost 10 years, before I lost her to metastatic breast cancer. The month before she passed away, she bought me my last birthday present, a Rolex Submariner....or so she thought. It turns out she was duped by an unscrupulous jeweler, for whom there is a special place in Hades. The movement is Swiss, according to a local watchmaker, but I still get sick to my stomach thinking that someone had the temerity to take advantage of a dying person. Even though it's not real, it's more valuable to me than the real McCoy and I cherish it every time I wear it. I also have a Vostok watch that my late aunt, a stewardess for Air France, brought back from the Soviet Union in the late 60's/early 70's. Here are pictures of both watches. Frederic
    • Just received my magnetic stirrer yesterday. The magnets are not very powerful, so hopefully it doesn't magnetize everything. It can also works as a "line release" tool.  If it doesn't work, I'll have a hot cocoa machine, parts dryer, a line release tool and maybe a demagnetizer. 
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