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    • By maclerche
      To the workshop, today I have received this fine old cleaning machine from Germany. 
      The machine is manufactured by VEB Elektromeschanik in Glashütte. 
      The machine is a type of AUII and is fully automated. It is about 30 cm. In diameter and 52 cm. high. Weight approx. 30 kilos. 
      The machine is from 1979 and the gray paint is intact everywhere. In addition to the complete holder and basket on the machine, 8 other curves included. Two of them also with holder. Although DHL and Post Norden have given it a massive transport, everything is all right and it seems like it's going to be! These machines are often sold at ebay.de. It also exists in a version that is not automatic!
       


    • By Hammer2017
      Hi all, long time lurker, first time poster
      I've recently picked up an old Brenray cleaning machine that I want to get back in action. It's actually working perfectly - the motor spins and the heater heats up. However, it's very dirty and the paint is peeling off. I'm going to do a full clean, paint strip and repaint. I've had a look at a few of the older posts on this, so have an idea where I'm heading (I didn't want to hijack one of them!).
      My main question regards the heating plate. There is a wired heating disc sandwiched between two heating square metal plates (iron I presume) with a bolt and nuts holding the three pieces together and securing it to the floor of the machine. As I said, the plate works and heats up, but the two plates, bolt and nuts are rusted solid. I sheared the end of the bolt off while trying to get the nut holding it to the floor off. A soak in deruster/wd40, replace the bolt, clean the plates and replace is one plan (please correct me if you think this might cause problems or damage the heating plate). The other is to get a replacement Elma heating pad which, at 80mm is about the same size. My question is this - will I need to get new metal (iron?) plates to reform the sandwich, or can that new plate go in on its own?
      Also, the motor is running well, but it is filthy. What is the best way to approach this - I'm utterly ignorant here, so any tips or advice will be very much appreciated! I'll post some pics as I go along if people want to follow the process!
      Thanks for reading!
      Mark
    • By Stian
      Hi guys,
      Another question from a newbie: I have a rotating cleaning machine with three jars. In the first jar I have Sambol Platina 1:20, in the second jar Elma reinigungskonzentrat 1:9 for rinsing and in the third jar sterilized water. Thereafter the basket goes in the heater chamber.
      My issue for now is that the first jar completely foams up. The jar is 3/5 full with the solvent but becomes completely foamed up. Is this a problem with the solvent or is it not actually a problem? I got this solvent from watch-tool.de
      Stian
    • By SSTEEL
      I know Mark has one of these machines, I recently purchased one myself, and its in dire need of restoring.  I have stripped it down, and wish to rewire it and replace the ageing motor speed switch with a modern alternative, so could really do with a wiring diagram if anyone has one?
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    • There are on Ebay. There is no gasket inside the tube. it's on the crown. BTW, we have a section where it's considered polite for new members to introduce themselves even before the question compelled to join.  
    • Generally speaking you can replace a pallet stone with another of the same width, and that has been shaped for the appropriate side of the fork (entry or exit). Let's say for your average vintage watch, a replacement stone from Seitz or other assortment will probably be just fine. You do run into issues with certain escapements for higher end watches from back in the day or modern watches with higher beats and more teeth in the escape wheel; often older high end escapements might have significantly different face angles from "common", and modern escapements have very different angles for sure. Usually it's possible and normal to replace an entire fork for a modern watch. With vintage/antique it can be very advantageous to fine tune the angle on the impulse face. One issue with replacement stones is that they are sometimes just too long overall, and need to be shortened. This is usually done on the end that fits in the fork as it just needs to be approximately squared off; I do it with a fine diamond grinding wheel (7 micron) holding the stone in a tiny vice. I suppose it could be done with a fine diamond file, but these will tend to chip the stone and while not affecting the function it is unsightly.
    • I have put an NH05 in in my 4205. BUT... The stem is not quite long enough. Do they doe longer stems? i cant see a stem extender working as the crown tube has a grommit/seal internally?
    • Hi Sonny and welcome to the forum. With the nice etching on the Waltham I'd certainly give it a go and try restore it to a new lease of life. First as Saswatch says strip it and take lots of photos while you are doing it. Next inspect all the parts meticulously looking for broken or worn items. If you are not sure thats what this forums for ask and you will receive advice. During stripping you may come across difficulties, if so just ask for help. It would be great to see you (a) find the errors and (b) correct them and (c) have a fully functioning time piece that you have made work.
    • This is a question that comes up often in the art world, too. Use your favorite search engine and search for "Conservation vs Restoration" and you'll find some interesting info.  
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