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    • By maclerche
      To the workshop, today I have received this fine old cleaning machine from Germany. 
      The machine is manufactured by VEB Elektromeschanik in Glashütte. 
      The machine is a type of AUII and is fully automated. It is about 30 cm. In diameter and 52 cm. high. Weight approx. 30 kilos. 
      The machine is from 1979 and the gray paint is intact everywhere. In addition to the complete holder and basket on the machine, 8 other curves included. Two of them also with holder. Although DHL and Post Norden have given it a massive transport, everything is all right and it seems like it's going to be! These machines are often sold at ebay.de. It also exists in a version that is not automatic!
       


    • By Hammer2017
      Hi all, long time lurker, first time poster
      I've recently picked up an old Brenray cleaning machine that I want to get back in action. It's actually working perfectly - the motor spins and the heater heats up. However, it's very dirty and the paint is peeling off. I'm going to do a full clean, paint strip and repaint. I've had a look at a few of the older posts on this, so have an idea where I'm heading (I didn't want to hijack one of them!).
      My main question regards the heating plate. There is a wired heating disc sandwiched between two heating square metal plates (iron I presume) with a bolt and nuts holding the three pieces together and securing it to the floor of the machine. As I said, the plate works and heats up, but the two plates, bolt and nuts are rusted solid. I sheared the end of the bolt off while trying to get the nut holding it to the floor off. A soak in deruster/wd40, replace the bolt, clean the plates and replace is one plan (please correct me if you think this might cause problems or damage the heating plate). The other is to get a replacement Elma heating pad which, at 80mm is about the same size. My question is this - will I need to get new metal (iron?) plates to reform the sandwich, or can that new plate go in on its own?
      Also, the motor is running well, but it is filthy. What is the best way to approach this - I'm utterly ignorant here, so any tips or advice will be very much appreciated! I'll post some pics as I go along if people want to follow the process!
      Thanks for reading!
      Mark
    • By Stian
      Hi guys,
      Another question from a newbie: I have a rotating cleaning machine with three jars. In the first jar I have Sambol Platina 1:20, in the second jar Elma reinigungskonzentrat 1:9 for rinsing and in the third jar sterilized water. Thereafter the basket goes in the heater chamber.
      My issue for now is that the first jar completely foams up. The jar is 3/5 full with the solvent but becomes completely foamed up. Is this a problem with the solvent or is it not actually a problem? I got this solvent from watch-tool.de
      Stian
    • By SSTEEL
      I know Mark has one of these machines, I recently purchased one myself, and its in dire need of restoring.  I have stripped it down, and wish to rewire it and replace the ageing motor speed switch with a modern alternative, so could really do with a wiring diagram if anyone has one?
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    • Welcome to the forum Brad.    
    • I agree, that would be interesting! If/when I get around to it I'll report back.
    • Has anyone tried one of the Girard Perregaux "Presto" hand-held crystal press, or a similar one?  The design looks like it would be resistant to flexing or getting out-of-square, but as I've never even heard anyone discuss this type, and no one seems to make a modern version, I wonder if it's one of those things that just didn't work that well and was consigned to the ash-heap of horological tool history.  
    • Taking a closer look at your picture it could be the jewel is not sitting right as there appears to be a gap between the jewel edge and the chaton in the upper left quadrant in the circle. So if the jewel is sitting high at the lower left position (of the jewel) this would mean a gap and the oil migration to the upper right.
    • These Seikos (and Orients) don't need much power so this would equate with low mainspring power. 24hours sounds OK. I would wind it full and wear it for a day and see how much amplitude it has at the end of the day. Then leave it overnight and check it again in the morning. If the autowind is efficient the reading at the end of the day (close to full wind) and in the morning (50% wind?) should not vary much. Anilv
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