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    • By maclerche
      To the workshop, today I have received this fine old cleaning machine from Germany. 
      The machine is manufactured by VEB Elektromeschanik in Glashütte. 
      The machine is a type of AUII and is fully automated. It is about 30 cm. In diameter and 52 cm. high. Weight approx. 30 kilos. 
      The machine is from 1979 and the gray paint is intact everywhere. In addition to the complete holder and basket on the machine, 8 other curves included. Two of them also with holder. Although DHL and Post Norden have given it a massive transport, everything is all right and it seems like it's going to be! These machines are often sold at ebay.de. It also exists in a version that is not automatic!

    • By Hammer2017
      Hi all, long time lurker, first time poster
      I've recently picked up an old Brenray cleaning machine that I want to get back in action. It's actually working perfectly - the motor spins and the heater heats up. However, it's very dirty and the paint is peeling off. I'm going to do a full clean, paint strip and repaint. I've had a look at a few of the older posts on this, so have an idea where I'm heading (I didn't want to hijack one of them!).
      My main question regards the heating plate. There is a wired heating disc sandwiched between two heating square metal plates (iron I presume) with a bolt and nuts holding the three pieces together and securing it to the floor of the machine. As I said, the plate works and heats up, but the two plates, bolt and nuts are rusted solid. I sheared the end of the bolt off while trying to get the nut holding it to the floor off. A soak in deruster/wd40, replace the bolt, clean the plates and replace is one plan (please correct me if you think this might cause problems or damage the heating plate). The other is to get a replacement Elma heating pad which, at 80mm is about the same size. My question is this - will I need to get new metal (iron?) plates to reform the sandwich, or can that new plate go in on its own?
      Also, the motor is running well, but it is filthy. What is the best way to approach this - I'm utterly ignorant here, so any tips or advice will be very much appreciated! I'll post some pics as I go along if people want to follow the process!
      Thanks for reading!
    • By Stian
      Hi guys,
      Another question from a newbie: I have a rotating cleaning machine with three jars. In the first jar I have Sambol Platina 1:20, in the second jar Elma reinigungskonzentrat 1:9 for rinsing and in the third jar sterilized water. Thereafter the basket goes in the heater chamber.
      My issue for now is that the first jar completely foams up. The jar is 3/5 full with the solvent but becomes completely foamed up. Is this a problem with the solvent or is it not actually a problem? I got this solvent from watch-tool.de
    • By SSTEEL
      I know Mark has one of these machines, I recently purchased one myself, and its in dire need of restoring.  I have stripped it down, and wish to rewire it and replace the ageing motor speed switch with a modern alternative, so could really do with a wiring diagram if anyone has one?
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    • Does anyone have any advice on how to fix this? Thanks in advance.   Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk    
    • I agree, I am definitely missing having an amplitude reading. I can use my eyes for now to get a very rough estimate on that. Note the beat error from the APP is actually daily rate error and the actual beat error can be seen by two parallel lines showing on the trace that merge into one when the beat error is minimised. It will do for me until Christmas Then I can enjoy going through my watch collection again and attend to anything that is a bit off the mark. Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
    • These CAL400 movements can make Andy's 404 club. So you can replace both the main plate and the train wheel plate from a donor  movement or you just put the movement into your junk pile, and reuse its parts if there is a need. I like the idea to rebush or jewel these pivot holes, i have many of these movements and I bought them because I like them and because its a cheap way to practice without worrying too much that you destroy a movement. Even though they are cheap I have a bad dream when i do something irreversible and irreversibly bad to any movement. Once OldHippy told us that they used to bring Timexes out and destroyed them with a hammer. I must try that out at some point as a brain therapy. So what is easier, re-bushing or jeweling? And what tools are required? Be aware that if you go down on the jeweling path you also need to work on the dial as it currently says 5 jewels.  
    • You really want more than that. Amplitude and patter regularity are the first and foremost data needed. If you want to start learning now I'd say than a model 1000 today is better than a 1900 tomorrow.
    • I use an app on my android phone using the built in mic. Weishi 1900 is on my Christmas wish list. Single line trace shows that the beat error is minimal. Steve Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
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