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    • By maclerche
      To the workshop, today I have received this fine old cleaning machine from Germany. 
      The machine is manufactured by VEB Elektromeschanik in Glashütte. 
      The machine is a type of AUII and is fully automated. It is about 30 cm. In diameter and 52 cm. high. Weight approx. 30 kilos. 
      The machine is from 1979 and the gray paint is intact everywhere. In addition to the complete holder and basket on the machine, 8 other curves included. Two of them also with holder. Although DHL and Post Norden have given it a massive transport, everything is all right and it seems like it's going to be! These machines are often sold at ebay.de. It also exists in a version that is not automatic!

    • By Hammer2017
      Hi all, long time lurker, first time poster
      I've recently picked up an old Brenray cleaning machine that I want to get back in action. It's actually working perfectly - the motor spins and the heater heats up. However, it's very dirty and the paint is peeling off. I'm going to do a full clean, paint strip and repaint. I've had a look at a few of the older posts on this, so have an idea where I'm heading (I didn't want to hijack one of them!).
      My main question regards the heating plate. There is a wired heating disc sandwiched between two heating square metal plates (iron I presume) with a bolt and nuts holding the three pieces together and securing it to the floor of the machine. As I said, the plate works and heats up, but the two plates, bolt and nuts are rusted solid. I sheared the end of the bolt off while trying to get the nut holding it to the floor off. A soak in deruster/wd40, replace the bolt, clean the plates and replace is one plan (please correct me if you think this might cause problems or damage the heating plate). The other is to get a replacement Elma heating pad which, at 80mm is about the same size. My question is this - will I need to get new metal (iron?) plates to reform the sandwich, or can that new plate go in on its own?
      Also, the motor is running well, but it is filthy. What is the best way to approach this - I'm utterly ignorant here, so any tips or advice will be very much appreciated! I'll post some pics as I go along if people want to follow the process!
      Thanks for reading!
    • By Stian
      Hi guys,
      Another question from a newbie: I have a rotating cleaning machine with three jars. In the first jar I have Sambol Platina 1:20, in the second jar Elma reinigungskonzentrat 1:9 for rinsing and in the third jar sterilized water. Thereafter the basket goes in the heater chamber.
      My issue for now is that the first jar completely foams up. The jar is 3/5 full with the solvent but becomes completely foamed up. Is this a problem with the solvent or is it not actually a problem? I got this solvent from watch-tool.de
    • By SSTEEL
      I know Mark has one of these machines, I recently purchased one myself, and its in dire need of restoring.  I have stripped it down, and wish to rewire it and replace the ageing motor speed switch with a modern alternative, so could really do with a wiring diagram if anyone has one?
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    • Hello Everyone, Been a watch lover since as far back as I can remember, since at least 5 years old! I have owned Timex', Citizens, Seikos, early on and later got into swiss aviation themed watches, Glysine, Breitling and even a Rolex GMT in my young adulthood. Over the last 5 years the bug bit hard and, after going down a deep rabbit hole, I now have a collection of close to 50 watches, the majority being vintage automatic Seikos Divers but now starting to appreciate the older Seiko dress watches too. Around the same time I started fiddling around with watches to source the ETA 28xx movements which I've used to build a couple custom watches. I'm considering taking some lessons to further my skill set and service my own movements.  I modest watch tool collection and have un-cased and re-cased movements, changed batteries, replaced crystals, bezels, dials and hands, and tore into the keyless works, mostly to swap out the 3-position set bridge, on no-date watches, to a 2-position set bridge. I've recently become aware of and started watching Mark's WRC videos.  Great videos! cheers, Mel
    • Welcome to WRT forum.
    • Hi All. Recently serviced a Zenith 2452. Made the mistake of removing the balance end stone to clean it and the spring pinged off. Then I bought another spring and lost the jewel bloc. Anyway- bought another balance cock - although it had rust on the adjuster so I levered off the adjuster and removed the bloc, fitted it to the original balance cock. It is all back together but my problem is that the fine adjuster is quite loose. The normal adjuster is fine, but the little eccentric adjuster is too easy to spin. I am afraid if I sell the watch that the daily rate might be wacky and the buyer will complain. Please advise if there is a way to tighten it. I tried staking the other balance cock as a practice run and all it did was shatter the head of the eccentric, although it did tighten it up. Cheers. Alex
    • Always had an interest in repairing watches and as I have dug out my very first watch that has been broken since the early sixties  thought I would give it a go.      
    • Many thanks for the advice. 
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