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    • By maclerche
      To the workshop, today I have received this fine old cleaning machine from Germany. 
      The machine is manufactured by VEB Elektromeschanik in Glashütte. 
      The machine is a type of AUII and is fully automated. It is about 30 cm. In diameter and 52 cm. high. Weight approx. 30 kilos. 
      The machine is from 1979 and the gray paint is intact everywhere. In addition to the complete holder and basket on the machine, 8 other curves included. Two of them also with holder. Although DHL and Post Norden have given it a massive transport, everything is all right and it seems like it's going to be! These machines are often sold at ebay.de. It also exists in a version that is not automatic!

    • By Hammer2017
      Hi all, long time lurker, first time poster
      I've recently picked up an old Brenray cleaning machine that I want to get back in action. It's actually working perfectly - the motor spins and the heater heats up. However, it's very dirty and the paint is peeling off. I'm going to do a full clean, paint strip and repaint. I've had a look at a few of the older posts on this, so have an idea where I'm heading (I didn't want to hijack one of them!).
      My main question regards the heating plate. There is a wired heating disc sandwiched between two heating square metal plates (iron I presume) with a bolt and nuts holding the three pieces together and securing it to the floor of the machine. As I said, the plate works and heats up, but the two plates, bolt and nuts are rusted solid. I sheared the end of the bolt off while trying to get the nut holding it to the floor off. A soak in deruster/wd40, replace the bolt, clean the plates and replace is one plan (please correct me if you think this might cause problems or damage the heating plate). The other is to get a replacement Elma heating pad which, at 80mm is about the same size. My question is this - will I need to get new metal (iron?) plates to reform the sandwich, or can that new plate go in on its own?
      Also, the motor is running well, but it is filthy. What is the best way to approach this - I'm utterly ignorant here, so any tips or advice will be very much appreciated! I'll post some pics as I go along if people want to follow the process!
      Thanks for reading!
    • By Stian
      Hi guys,
      Another question from a newbie: I have a rotating cleaning machine with three jars. In the first jar I have Sambol Platina 1:20, in the second jar Elma reinigungskonzentrat 1:9 for rinsing and in the third jar sterilized water. Thereafter the basket goes in the heater chamber.
      My issue for now is that the first jar completely foams up. The jar is 3/5 full with the solvent but becomes completely foamed up. Is this a problem with the solvent or is it not actually a problem? I got this solvent from watch-tool.de
    • By SSTEEL
      I know Mark has one of these machines, I recently purchased one myself, and its in dire need of restoring.  I have stripped it down, and wish to rewire it and replace the ageing motor speed switch with a modern alternative, so could really do with a wiring diagram if anyone has one?
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    • I would try replacing the cracked jewel, before doing any pivot polishing. Did you use smoothing broaches on the barrel, and what was the result? My advice is not to change anything you can't change back, unless you're absolutely sure you need to.
    • Thank you for your response. pix of the case back and front, also of the movement and it's caliber, helps proper advice. Good luck
    • "Shelter in Place" has me working on a Movado chronograph I picked up some time ago.  The case is a Taubert/Borgel and needed the pendant tube repaired.  Now with that out of the way I need to cut a new cork gasket and figure out how to squeeze it into the tube (that should be fun).
    • Thank you Nucejoe. To further my introduction to this forum, I am, at best, an amateur 'watch repairer'.  Primarily, I am interested in mechanical watches, and plan to maintain and repair some that I own. However, until I am learned and competent enough to tackle my mechanical wind-ups, I am practicing on a sleek men’s Glycine quartz dress watch from the early 90’s.  I am replacing the movement.  In my search for insight about how to do this replacement I began lurking on this forum and perused other on-line sites for useful information.  It seems though that the movement must come out through the front of this watch.  I have ordered a replacement that is the same as the movement the watch currently has and some tools to aid my endeavor – wish me luck.  I live in Virginia, USA.  Am aged mid-sixties (late to enter the game – hope I don’t become too shaky or forgetful before I am able to tackle my vintage and antique wind-ups), female (I mention this as it seems to me that very few females seem interested in what makes watches tick!) and the Glycine I’m ‘working’ on has been generously donated by my husband. I am not always timely in responding to posts, so please do not feel I am intentionally being rude.  I hope all of you will be patient with me.  Thank you.  
    • Already asked and answered below. Please don't post duplicates. https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/1011-repair-michael-kors-mk3248-watch/?do=findComment&comment=127417  
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