I recently bought a lot of pocket watches on Ebay.
Between them I found an Alpina pocket watch with movement UH 1116. I saw on internet that usually is referred as Alpina 1116.
I got the following situation, while removing the wheels bridges, one of the ruby remained on the wheel.
Please take a look on the following pictures.
I also took some pictures with a microscope in order to explain better the situation.
Could you please suggest me what I should do?
Is what I got complete? Looking to another ruby it seems there is something missing (holding piece?)
Is the movement common? Do You believe I can find the bridge somewhere?
BTW I have also found a broken spring
Many thanks in advance for your suggestions
I am working on an Elgin pocket watch grade 312. It was an estate sale purchase and was not running when purchased. I assumed that it was not running because it was very dirty and thought cleaning would solve all the problems. I completely disassembled it and ran it through an ultrasound cleaner and rinse. It came out bright and shiny and when I started to reassemble for the first time I saw that there was NO roller jewel!
So, what now? Can the roller jewel be replaced by a person with very modest ability? I am including two pictures of the balance and roller plate. I do not see any sign of where it was attached.
Thanks in advance for any guidance.
This is my first watch repair project beyond battery replacement and bracelet adjustment. After buying 2 non running Ingersol Triumph pin pallet lever pocket watches I now realise that they are not the best to start with, however now that I have them in bits I'm going to continue. One watch was really a basket case, the other ran for a few seconds then stopped, I have stripped both, cleaned the good bits and reassembled one watch (several times) I have got it to wind and to run but when I try to adjust the hands the crown is jammed solid. To recap, the crown will wind the watch but not change the hands. This watch doesn't have a conventional cannon pinion, it has a rather flat pinion (see photo). Please excuse my terminology, everything seems to be a pinion.
So this little pinion (gear wheel) fits on the shaft (pinion?) of the centre wheel, I suspect that it is too tight, as I understand with a conventional cannon pinion there should be some friction to drive the hand but also enough slippage to allow adjustment of the time. I'm not sure with this watch what sort of fit the pinion should be, and I would like to ask for advise before I remove any material and make it too loose.
Best regards, Alan
I don't think there is any hard and fast rule. I take off the balance with full power in the mainspring sometimes. Like when you put the watch on the timegrapher and something doesn't look right. My only rule is never take the pallet fork out when there is power. But.... Is there anyone out there that hasn't done that accidentally?
On older pocket watches with cylinder escapements, there is no pallet fork. In these type of movements, taking off the balance before power down will result in the gear train running at full speed. Don't ask me how I know that.
On automatic watches that the winding stem does not engage the ratchet wheel, the way to power down the mainspring is to use a large screwdriver to engage the the barrel screw then release the click spring. Then slowly allow the screwdriver to release power from the mainspring.
I wish there was a proper tool to do this, like a special screwdriver with a friction controlled release button. Does anyone know of a tool like that?
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Thanks for the helpful answer.
What about non-handwinding automatic movements?
Even if I'm able to find the click, I'm worried about releasing it without being able to control the power release by holding the crown.
Is there a method for doing this on these type of automatics?
Similarly, when it comes time to reassemble and place the balance on the movement, what is the preferred wind the mainspring in a small, incremental way when there is no keyless mechanism?