This is my first watch repair project beyond battery replacement and bracelet adjustment. After buying 2 non running Ingersol Triumph pin pallet lever pocket watches I now realise that they are not the best to start with, however now that I have them in bits I'm going to continue. One watch was really a basket case, the other ran for a few seconds then stopped, I have stripped both, cleaned the good bits and reassembled one watch (several times) I have got it to wind and to run but when I try to adjust the hands the crown is jammed solid. To recap, the crown will wind the watch but not change the hands. This watch doesn't have a conventional cannon pinion, it has a rather flat pinion (see photo). Please excuse my terminology, everything seems to be a pinion.
So this little pinion (gear wheel) fits on the shaft (pinion?) of the centre wheel, I suspect that it is too tight, as I understand with a conventional cannon pinion there should be some friction to drive the hand but also enough slippage to allow adjustment of the time. I'm not sure with this watch what sort of fit the pinion should be, and I would like to ask for advise before I remove any material and make it too loose.
Best regards, Alan
Hi I have a movement which I think has some serious problem.
I serviced it a week ago but the timegraph shows great gap between results with dial up position and dial down position.
Also the balance seems a little shaky from horizontal view when watch is running.
What can be done to make this watch run in appropriate way?
I am in need of some advice on how to get a mainspring working in a Waltham 0s hunting case. This is a complete restoration of a rusted watch - spent way too much time on it already. I have it cleaned up now and in process of finalizing assembly but the mainspring I have installed keeps slipping from the center hub/barrel arbor. Hook of arbor hub appears fine and the tail of the mainspring is hooked well in the side wall of the barrel. I have installed 2 new but old inventory mainsprings and wanted to know if this may be the problem and I just need a new fresh mspg? I have installed many mainsprings but this one is terrible. I am using a pocket mainspring winder to install.
movt serial #9535224
You can see my original mainspring below. I will add a picture of the inside of the mainspring barrel when I get the chance.
Thanks for any help,
I have a problem with a Bulova pocket watch. The watch was running, but losing a few minutes every day. I opened the case to see if it was dirty or if there was an obvious reason for running slow. I did not see any problems, but I took the stem out. When I started to replace the stem a piece of the winding mechanism seemed to leap out of the movement and sail away. I think it was propelled by a spring. It took several hours, but I found the piece on the floor.
Now for the problem. I cannot get the piece back in. I have rotated it into several orientations and tried to find a peg to fit into the hole in the runaway piece, but after several days, I cannot get it to fit back into the watch. In the pictures below you can see the piece oriented in a way that I think it should go. An oiler is positioned to point at the troublesome piece. In the other picture the piece is removed and you can see the springs that are supposed to hold the stem in place. That piece no longer fits into the groove on the stem and so I cannot secure the stem. The third picture is a picture of the dial of the watch.
Does anyone have a suggestions?
An encouragement to newbies, and perhaps a useful trick for veteran watchmakers
Last week I replaced an impulse jewel in a roller table for the first time. Hurray!! I feel I'm growing as a watchmaker, although still largely through making mistakes and then saying, "Well, I'm not going to try THAT technique again!" So I want to encourage my fellow newbies that one really can learn how to do these challenging maneuvers.
I puzzled for a long time over the techniques by which I would pick up a slick tiny impulse jewel measuring 0.38 mm in diameter, and place it, facing the right direction, precisely at a 90 degree angle into its tiny hole on the roller table. And how would I keep the jewel in place as I added a tiny thread of shellac to the roller table and as I heated it?
I figured I had to put the roller table securely in place on top of the heat-transfer device—what is the name of that thing?—and do all subsequent operations on that platform. I'd never be able to transfer the roller table and unsecured jewel from the workbench to the heat-transfer device without the jewel falling out and disappearing.
The bigger problem was picking up and moving the jewel. I couldn't get a good grip on it with tweezers. One of the techniques I had read in a standard textbook described getting the flat top of the jewel to adhere to the inner face of the tweezer tip, and then pinch the jewel down into the hole as the other tweezer tip is pushing up from the opposite side of the metal heating table. But that dog wouldn't hunt. The clamps holding the roller table onto the heating table prevented my having maneuvering room to do that. Besides, I couldn't hold the heating table off the work bench, maneuver two tines of the tweezers without dropping the jewel, and still get my loupe close enough to the jewel to see if it was facing the right direction.
I considered wetting the outside of the (held together) tweeter tip with water to use water's surface tension—or as my son the chemist corrects me, its dipole moment—to have the jewel adhere to the outer surface of the tweeter tip. But that presented two potential problems. One, the water would likely heap up into too large a droplet on the tweezer, and two, once the jewel had been picked up by the droplet on the outside of the tweezer, it might not easily be released from the wet tip.
So...instead of using water, I dipped the tweezer tip in acetone—nail polish remover. My idea was that the acetone would have less dipole moment than water, reducing its tendency to bead up, but still enough dipole moment to pick up the jewel. Also, acetone evaporates fairly quickly, especially when, as in this case, the ratio of surface area to volume is so high. So the adhesion of jewel to tweezer should be declining when—if!—I maneuver the jewel into place and want to separate it from the tweezer tip.
This technique didn't make the procedure EASY, but it made it DOABLE for me. The jewel is now securely and properly affixed to the roller table. (The watch still doesn't run, but that's another and sadder story.). I'll upload some before and after photos.
Then I began to wonder. Had I merely stumbled across a technique that is already well known and widely used? Or is this a new idea? Also, since I didn't actually run a controlled study, I don't really KNOW if acetone is superior to water for this arcane purpose.
So I invite the veteran watchmakers here to share their reflection on this technique, and to report the results of any experiment they are inspired to perform.
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Hello all, "Newby"question here, I am planning to upgrade my cheapo screwdrivers, by getting a few quality ones. I've seen that some have parallel / (hollow ground /T shaped) tips e.g Horotec. How much better are these than the normal one? Are they are better fit for all screws, or are normal ones sometimes better? Is it worth haveng both types of tip and changing them to suit different screws? Many thanks for any answers, Mark
Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.