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Help ID this watch


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Hi like-minded people, here are some pictures of a watch I just acquired. I'm hoping that one or more of you well-informed folk might be able to cast some light on this watch, ie. The maker, model and approximate age. 

I just got it running after straightening the hairspring which looked as though someone had taken a fork to it. Even more surprisingly, it is keeping remarkably good time. It hasn't lost or gained 1 minute since Sunday afternoon. Not bad for a watch with no jewels and a £5.00 price tag!

If there is anyone who could give me some info on this watch I would be very grateful.

My very best wishes to you all

Mark.

PS. This looks even more primitive than my Ingersoll Dollar watch!

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It reminds me of the "Services" pocket watches, or perhaps the UMF Ruhla (East) German movements.

The fact that it doesn't show its country of origin, or even "Foreign" makes it possible that it is German, since German products were unpopular in the years following the firs world war.

Are there no model numbers or manufacturer's marks on it anywhere, even under the dial?

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    • That's a good idea - shrinking down the nut and wrench size from the old casebook trick!
    • I missed this earlier. The dial isn't going into the holder, it should sit proud of it. This is what I am currently using which I print for each different movement.    
    • I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
    • I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
    • Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
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