Jump to content

Balance Wheel and Hair Spring


Recommended Posts

Hello

I'm not expert enough to know the condition of the hairspring from a movement I'm working on. If I post some pictures, would someone be kind enough to look at them and advise if the hairspring is in good shape and can be re-installed in the movement? Thanks in advance for your help. 

 

Michael

 

 

P1080765.JPG

P1080766.JPG

P1080768.JPG

P1080769.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi rodabod. 

Thanks for your response. Perhaps this defect (the terminal curve) would explain why I was having so much difficulty in getting the balance jewel to sit in the pallet fork. I even posted a question about trying to install the balance wheel.

Where would I order a replacement balance wheel from? I'm in Canada and the movement is a 2824 -2 clone (clone of a clone no doubt). Definitely not a Sea-Gull. Do you know if the pallet fork & balance wheel have to be order as one unit? I'm thinking a replacement balance wheel (jewel) may not fit into the existing pallet fork.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Michael,

It's possible that the hairspring stud or index pins could have moved as these use the Etachron system which is seen on some modern watches. Basically, the parts are moveable:

Image result for etachron

 

I would be aware of this before manipulating the hairspring. And also accept that hairspring work is not trivial. Might be best to get a new one just now, but your other problem is that these aren't as simple to fit to the balance cock as older designs (where you simply tighten the hairspring stud with a screw).

In answer to your other question, the pallet fork does not need to be matched to the balance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can get by with an imperfect hairspring's END CURVE.

1- Remove all to have a bare mainplate.

2- install balance and cock back on the mainplate, this will increase your access to hairspring and you can keep checking it from both sides.

Hairspring is to be centered concentric, level. In this case only end curve is jammed. Bring the end curve back to a circular shape, let us see pix as you progress.

You are thinking new is a gurantee that  the hairspring will bs centered once installed, it may be only by chance.

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello everyone, for what it's worth, here is my approach: 1. Escape wheel submerged in Epilame, then dried quickly with a hairdryer. Then the final tip of the pivots are cleaned by poking into pithwood. The logic being that the Epilame is removed at the intended contact point (to avoid any residue that may mix with the oil), but remains in the areas where oil is not supposed to spread to (further down the pivot towards the wheel). The escape wheel teeth also benefit from having Epilame to keep the 9415 in place.  2. I use a syringe to treat only the pallet stones. I suspend the pallet fork with some Rodico so that the stones hang downwards. I notably use a rather thick needle where a drop WON'T form, but rather where the Epilame liquid stays in the needle tip, which I then dip into the pallet stones. It requires some practice to get the right amount of Epilame into the needle tip, but it works for me now. This way, no drop will "jump" onto the pallet fork and potentially go all the way to the pivots.  3. I let the movement run for a few minutes without lubricating the pallet stones... to scrape off the Epilame in the intended contact "channel". Then I remove the balance again and lubricate the exit pallet stone with 3-4 successive drops. See the "channel" that forms on the pallet stone in the picture -- not so easy to see, but it's visible.       I am conflicted about the use of Epliame in balance jewel settings. My impression is that the two jewels sufficiently suspend the oil (even 9010). Apparently Rolex recommends NOT to use Epliame there (heard from a former Rolex service center watchmaker), as it could cause additional wear. Apart from that, I follow specific instructions where I can find them. E.g. the infamous Rolex reverser wheels or sometimes (parts of) the seconds wheel. Exception: I'm currently servicing an Eta 2824 and will probably ignore the service sheet that recommends treating the whole keyless works with Epilame and then using HP1300... I'll skip the Epilame and use 9504 grease.        
    • I'm going to give this a try today/tomorrow on my UTC33/Seiko 66, thanks!
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • Don't forget Mark is a hard working watch maker so he is also tied up with work. I'm sure he is keeping his eye on this forum making sure it is running along nicely. 
    • Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement.    
×
×
  • Create New...