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    • By IOB
      I have a UG Tri-Compax from the 1950s or 60s (Calibre 281): The chronograph (centre) seconds hand can’t turn past 58.5 seconds and the whole watch stops ticking/working (nothing moving/turning in the movement). However, when the reset pusher (4 o’clock) is kept pressed, it enables the seconds hand and watch to move/tick again. The reset pusher is released when the chrono seconds hand reaches 60: the watch resumes ticking and the hands move until the chrono seconds hand reaches 58.5s again. The process is repeated.
       
      It has been noticed that if the watch is held face down then the reset pusher “procedure” doesn’t always work (i.e. the watch does not resume ticking/moving). It’s usually necessary to turn the watch over and try to press the pusher a few times in order to make the seconds hands move again.
       
      The 30-minute sub-dial at 3 o’clock has stopped working, too.
       
      If the chrono is not activated, then the watch seems to run properly.
       
      What do you think is the problem?
       
      Thanks for your insight!
    • By Usluyan
      Hello, everybody.
      I wanted to share my restoration stories that I have done for a long time and thrown into my archive. First I discussed the Atomic Mars 71 Brand using Valjoux 7734.
       
      As it was seen, scratch and dial is broken. To begin with, I tried to brush the Case as Brushed and make it the first day. If it is decorated, I polished and re-painted the indexes (with acrylic paint). I usually do this in three layers so that the paint is not deleted in a short time.
      I replaced the case buttons and tubes with aftermarket buttons.
      Since the condition of the dial was in very poor condition, I had it re-painted. The quality is not so good. In Turkey, unfortunately, not doing the job well.
      Caliber 7734 (Valjoux) is a special and robust mechanism for me. With good maintenance and lubrication, you can reduce deflection values up to 3-4 seconds per day. I added a short timelapse video about it :)
      As a result, such a result came before us.
      Thank you
      Taskin
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKH6yTKUfpM
       









    • By jackie01
      Hello guys,
      I want to show you my lately restoration project. This time it was a Seiko 7015-8000 with blue dial. Watch came to me in very poor condition. As you can see on photos the case was scratchty, crystal was totaly tarnished with deep scratches. Everywhere was dirt, gunk and mud...yuck. Movement was running and stopping with very low amplitude. After opened the caseback I wasn't suprised - it looked like as case - dirt and signs of wear. Rotor was loose and fall out the case. When I take off the crystall I saw dial which had faded Seiko logo, some scratches and hands which lost their lume.
       














       
      Next step was strip down the movement - everywhere dirt and dry old oil. Time to cleaning bath

       







       
      Look at this - it's my temporary balance wheel stand - I suspect that from temporary it will be permanent. It does job well.
       

       
      After cleaning it's time to assembly movement. Now it looks better - maybe not pristine but clean and shiny. New oil here and there and movement starts to run. Now it's time for bench testing before install it to the case.
       





       
       
      Meanwhile I took care of the case, dial and hands. Case got some polishing work - not to much cause I didn't want to loose the sharpness of edges. That is effect:
       





      Dial and hands got new lume - I am not perfect in this work but I still learn to do this. Additional the seconds hand was repainted to orange color. I didn't change the crystall but i just polished it with waterpaper and on the end polish paste. Effect suprissed me. Time for the  pleasant work - putting this all pieces together into the watch.
       







       

      VID_20190927_195610.mp4
       
    • By jackie01
      Hello,
      I started new project - Citizen 67-9119. It's seventies chronograph based on 8110A movement. Watch came to me as "fully working in great condition" As you can see there isn't crystal. The one which was here had chip and wasn't set properly in bezel so when i turned the watch it fall on the floor and broke. As you can see dial is in quite good condition, only it needs to be relumed. Hands needs to be repainted and relumed too. Movement works well but it is too speedy (  +3 min/24h). Chrono buttons work properly, only the hour counter stops at "3h" position so I must to take a look here. I striped down the watch and disassembled movement. There was some much oil everywhere so the cleaning is required. 















       
       
       
    • By jackie01
      Hello everybody,

      I open this thread to archive works on Citizen 8110A Bullhead. I purchased this watch in poor condition as You can see on the photos.


      Cause I have serviced few chronographs in the past I decide to try restore this watch. Maybe is not ractional from the economical aspect but we do this because we love it So let's open it.

      Hands are in good condition (required repaint and relume) but the dial has broken legs and tachy scale is faded :/ I think it's really hard to find orginal and there is no gold aftermarket replacement - sad. Look at the movement.







       
      Gosh, what a dirty place It needs good cleaning and oiling. 
      But the biggest problems are this.


       
      Broken post on main spring bridge and missing rocking bar core and screw in gear train. I need to find replacement.

      While I'll be working on movement the case and pushers are send to renew - putting new gold plated coat

       

      Stay tuned
       
       
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    • Oh my word that’s so kind... I’ll be happy to reimburse you if you find anything
    • This is the pallet staff in place with both plates screwed down. A puff off my blower and as you can see it spins freely, as does the rest of the train. So I’m thinking the low amplitude is again the hairspring. It seems to be catching on itself as there looks to be a definite click to it when it’s in motion, it’s not massive but it’s visible.  Theories and thoughts appreciated, cheers  IMG_7091.MOV
    • Called an assortment or a mess, I,ll dig in my bag of 2000 staffs, I just may find some to suit your balance wheel. If not an exact match, you can get by with broaching for J and G while  K isn't as significant. Making a staff is a last resort and expensive and whoever makes one should fit it onto the wheel and poise it as well. I,ll start digging, be happy to gift wrap and send you some, fingers  crossed.    
    • That's very helpful! Appreciate the effort to draw it out!  My spring needs some adjustment then as it doesn't sit over the hole as you rightly said trying to get the Arbor hook engaged and get into its hole at the same time is what's causing my problem. I did think about manipulating the spring but didn't know if I would damage the MS. I will have a go at centering it whilst I wait for a new Arbor and spring to arrive.  Thanks again for all the help, it's been invaluable!
    • Glissalube 20 is 8217 and used in automatic barrels. Others forms of this grease is used for aluminum and brass barrels. The fit should be tight. If the end is not in the correct position over the hole in the barrel it could still slip no matter if it’s tight or loose. It should be positioned to where the hole end of the should be in center of the barrel slightly offset. I would love to show a pic but I don’t have any movements apart on my bench currently so I drew a makeshift diagram. As you see sometimes a new MS wont line the end up with the barrel hole so adjustments should be made prior to the end to get it centered. You are trying to hook the arbor on then trying to move it over to set it into the barrel hole which iam going guess that’s why it flew across the room. and I just realized I drew the MS backwards but you get the idea.
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