UG Tri-Compax Chronograph (centre) seconds hand can’t turn past 58.5 seconds and the whole watch stops tickingBy IOB
I have a UG Tri-Compax from the 1950s or 60s (Calibre 281): The chronograph (centre) seconds hand can’t turn past 58.5 seconds and the whole watch stops ticking/working (nothing moving/turning in the movement). However, when the reset pusher (4 o’clock) is kept pressed, it enables the seconds hand and watch to move/tick again. The reset pusher is released when the chrono seconds hand reaches 60: the watch resumes ticking and the hands move until the chrono seconds hand reaches 58.5s again. The process is repeated.
It has been noticed that if the watch is held face down then the reset pusher “procedure” doesn’t always work (i.e. the watch does not resume ticking/moving). It’s usually necessary to turn the watch over and try to press the pusher a few times in order to make the seconds hands move again.
The 30-minute sub-dial at 3 o’clock has stopped working, too.
If the chrono is not activated, then the watch seems to run properly.
What do you think is the problem?
Thanks for your insight!
I wanted to share my restoration stories that I have done for a long time and thrown into my archive. First I discussed the Atomic Mars 71 Brand using Valjoux 7734.
As it was seen, scratch and dial is broken. To begin with, I tried to brush the Case as Brushed and make it the first day. If it is decorated, I polished and re-painted the indexes (with acrylic paint). I usually do this in three layers so that the paint is not deleted in a short time.
I replaced the case buttons and tubes with aftermarket buttons.
Since the condition of the dial was in very poor condition, I had it re-painted. The quality is not so good. In Turkey, unfortunately, not doing the job well.
Caliber 7734 (Valjoux) is a special and robust mechanism for me. With good maintenance and lubrication, you can reduce deflection values up to 3-4 seconds per day. I added a short timelapse video about it :)
As a result, such a result came before us.
I want to show you my lately restoration project. This time it was a Seiko 7015-8000 with blue dial. Watch came to me in very poor condition. As you can see on photos the case was scratchty, crystal was totaly tarnished with deep scratches. Everywhere was dirt, gunk and mud...yuck. Movement was running and stopping with very low amplitude. After opened the caseback I wasn't suprised - it looked like as case - dirt and signs of wear. Rotor was loose and fall out the case. When I take off the crystall I saw dial which had faded Seiko logo, some scratches and hands which lost their lume.
Next step was strip down the movement - everywhere dirt and dry old oil. Time to cleaning bath
Look at this - it's my temporary balance wheel stand - I suspect that from temporary it will be permanent. It does job well.
After cleaning it's time to assembly movement. Now it looks better - maybe not pristine but clean and shiny. New oil here and there and movement starts to run. Now it's time for bench testing before install it to the case.
Meanwhile I took care of the case, dial and hands. Case got some polishing work - not to much cause I didn't want to loose the sharpness of edges. That is effect:
Dial and hands got new lume - I am not perfect in this work but I still learn to do this. Additional the seconds hand was repainted to orange color. I didn't change the crystall but i just polished it with waterpaper and on the end polish paste. Effect suprissed me. Time for the pleasant work - putting this all pieces together into the watch.
I started new project - Citizen 67-9119. It's seventies chronograph based on 8110A movement. Watch came to me as "fully working in great condition" As you can see there isn't crystal. The one which was here had chip and wasn't set properly in bezel so when i turned the watch it fall on the floor and broke. As you can see dial is in quite good condition, only it needs to be relumed. Hands needs to be repainted and relumed too. Movement works well but it is too speedy ( +3 min/24h). Chrono buttons work properly, only the hour counter stops at "3h" position so I must to take a look here. I striped down the watch and disassembled movement. There was some much oil everywhere so the cleaning is required.
I open this thread to archive works on Citizen 8110A Bullhead. I purchased this watch in poor condition as You can see on the photos.
Cause I have serviced few chronographs in the past I decide to try restore this watch. Maybe is not ractional from the economical aspect but we do this because we love it So let's open it.
Hands are in good condition (required repaint and relume) but the dial has broken legs and tachy scale is faded :/ I think it's really hard to find orginal and there is no gold aftermarket replacement - sad. Look at the movement.
Gosh, what a dirty place It needs good cleaning and oiling.
But the biggest problems are this.
Broken post on main spring bridge and missing rocking bar core and screw in gear train. I need to find replacement.
While I'll be working on movement the case and pushers are send to renew - putting new gold plated coat
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Hello All, Hope you're safe, doing well and in good health. As an update, I managed to source a click spring and the seconds wheel. After a lot of struggle - mainly because I was scared - I managed to put the click and click spring back together in the process of assembling the movement. In the final step of putting the balance, I couldn't get the movement to run. This is the first issue. I can say that the train wheel bridge and pallet fork are all seated correctly in their pivots as I kept checking the function every time I went a step further. I'd also add that I've used Mobi 9020 when oiling the pivots as I'm waiting for my supply of 9010 and other oils+greases although I don't think that would be a major problem. It is also very possible that the oiling is not an A grade job. The first round of putting the watch back together is an experiment to see if I can get the watch to tick. I will redo the whole project once I have the oils. In this current build, I was not even going to proceed with the keyless works; rather disassemble the movement. The two other issues are; 1. After I removed the balance, I tried to tap the pallet fork to see if it is gripping the escape wheel on the entry and exit points but I couldn't see that happening like what I've seen in some of Mark's and other videos on YT. 2. I had wound the mainspring a few turns just to have some power in when I put in the balance. As the escape wheel was unresponsive, I tried to unwind the mainspring to release any power but when i disengaged the click, the barrel didn't turn. Worryingly, this is exactly what I saw when I first disassembled the movement and when I took out the pallet fork, a lot power was released which apparently damaged the seconds wheel. Can someone please advise what could be the problem here with the three issues I've mentioned? Any help will be greatly appreciated. P.S. This is my first project of restoring my Grandfather's watch.
Hello (again!), another update; I've removed the movement from the case and dial, re-attached the set lever, and unwound the watch. I guess my next step is disassembly - I was going to attempt something along the lines of this: http://archive.horlogerie-suisse.com/Theoriehorlogerie/disassembling-mechanical-watch.html Does that sound like a sensible approach?
So the dial code is: 23772 2573. I got the watch for Christmas 1973 There was a watch on fleabay, see picture, that looked very similar to mine but with a blue dial instead of orange. I didn't bid on it because the seller didn't reply to my question and I don't want to buy something that isn't suitable. I have not seen any others apart from an orange one the same as mine but complete with winder, see second picture, but my bid was not high enough to win. Other Timex Diver's that I have seen for sale seem to have slightly larger cases with 18mm lug spaces compared to mine which is 16mm. None of this seems to be as straight forward as I first thought!
Hello, My Seiko 5 just showed up, from Amazon Canada. I'm a bit disappointed the movement is stamped "Malaysia" I did not do enough diligence to realize I was buying the Malaysian model. Not a big deal it was only meant to wear at work and take apart into tiny pieces. I'm just wondering if someone can please explain HOW the crown jams the second hand when slowly reversing the minute hand. If anyone is familiar with the mechanics involved in accomplishing this please describe what happens, thanks a lot. I understand how to perform the procedure I am not sure how it works inside though.