UG Tri-Compax Chronograph (centre) seconds hand can’t turn past 58.5 seconds and the whole watch stops tickingBy IOB
I have a UG Tri-Compax from the 1950s or 60s (Calibre 281): The chronograph (centre) seconds hand can’t turn past 58.5 seconds and the whole watch stops ticking/working (nothing moving/turning in the movement). However, when the reset pusher (4 o’clock) is kept pressed, it enables the seconds hand and watch to move/tick again. The reset pusher is released when the chrono seconds hand reaches 60: the watch resumes ticking and the hands move until the chrono seconds hand reaches 58.5s again. The process is repeated.
It has been noticed that if the watch is held face down then the reset pusher “procedure” doesn’t always work (i.e. the watch does not resume ticking/moving). It’s usually necessary to turn the watch over and try to press the pusher a few times in order to make the seconds hands move again.
The 30-minute sub-dial at 3 o’clock has stopped working, too.
If the chrono is not activated, then the watch seems to run properly.
What do you think is the problem?
Thanks for your insight!
I wanted to share my restoration stories that I have done for a long time and thrown into my archive. First I discussed the Atomic Mars 71 Brand using Valjoux 7734.
As it was seen, scratch and dial is broken. To begin with, I tried to brush the Case as Brushed and make it the first day. If it is decorated, I polished and re-painted the indexes (with acrylic paint). I usually do this in three layers so that the paint is not deleted in a short time.
I replaced the case buttons and tubes with aftermarket buttons.
Since the condition of the dial was in very poor condition, I had it re-painted. The quality is not so good. In Turkey, unfortunately, not doing the job well.
Caliber 7734 (Valjoux) is a special and robust mechanism for me. With good maintenance and lubrication, you can reduce deflection values up to 3-4 seconds per day. I added a short timelapse video about it :)
As a result, such a result came before us.
I want to show you my lately restoration project. This time it was a Seiko 7015-8000 with blue dial. Watch came to me in very poor condition. As you can see on photos the case was scratchty, crystal was totaly tarnished with deep scratches. Everywhere was dirt, gunk and mud...yuck. Movement was running and stopping with very low amplitude. After opened the caseback I wasn't suprised - it looked like as case - dirt and signs of wear. Rotor was loose and fall out the case. When I take off the crystall I saw dial which had faded Seiko logo, some scratches and hands which lost their lume.
Next step was strip down the movement - everywhere dirt and dry old oil. Time to cleaning bath
Look at this - it's my temporary balance wheel stand - I suspect that from temporary it will be permanent. It does job well.
After cleaning it's time to assembly movement. Now it looks better - maybe not pristine but clean and shiny. New oil here and there and movement starts to run. Now it's time for bench testing before install it to the case.
Meanwhile I took care of the case, dial and hands. Case got some polishing work - not to much cause I didn't want to loose the sharpness of edges. That is effect:
Dial and hands got new lume - I am not perfect in this work but I still learn to do this. Additional the seconds hand was repainted to orange color. I didn't change the crystall but i just polished it with waterpaper and on the end polish paste. Effect suprissed me. Time for the pleasant work - putting this all pieces together into the watch.
I started new project - Citizen 67-9119. It's seventies chronograph based on 8110A movement. Watch came to me as "fully working in great condition" As you can see there isn't crystal. The one which was here had chip and wasn't set properly in bezel so when i turned the watch it fall on the floor and broke. As you can see dial is in quite good condition, only it needs to be relumed. Hands needs to be repainted and relumed too. Movement works well but it is too speedy ( +3 min/24h). Chrono buttons work properly, only the hour counter stops at "3h" position so I must to take a look here. I striped down the watch and disassembled movement. There was some much oil everywhere so the cleaning is required.
I open this thread to archive works on Citizen 8110A Bullhead. I purchased this watch in poor condition as You can see on the photos.
Cause I have serviced few chronographs in the past I decide to try restore this watch. Maybe is not ractional from the economical aspect but we do this because we love it So let's open it.
Hands are in good condition (required repaint and relume) but the dial has broken legs and tachy scale is faded :/ I think it's really hard to find orginal and there is no gold aftermarket replacement - sad. Look at the movement.
Gosh, what a dirty place It needs good cleaning and oiling.
But the biggest problems are this.
Broken post on main spring bridge and missing rocking bar core and screw in gear train. I need to find replacement.
While I'll be working on movement the case and pushers are send to renew - putting new gold plated coat
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All of the watch mainsprings I'm aware of can potentially be hand wound into the barrel, some are just more tricky than others - some shapes or types of mainspring can be awkward regardless of method. Having a pre-wound mainspring is nice when everything is going to plan.
It should only slip to prevent overwinding, otherwise sliding and slipping of the mainspring in the barrel of an automatic will result in very low amplitude and poor running conditions or may not run at all. This why I never oil an automatic MS, even the slightest bit of oil drops the amplitude a clean dry spring with kluber on barrel wall yield 280+ without fail. For me at least can’t speak for others and not going to say my method is the answer. I would say a dry lube is best for a MS if anything. And as most say a lot of new mainsprings come with dry lube ready to be installed.
Hello, I finally got round to finishing an overhead drive for my lathe, inspired by pictures of a Schaublin example. I've yet to fit locking handles while I decide whether to go for press fit / threaded in / sliding handles.. and the MDF base is still in the testing stage while I get used to the ergonomics and decide on a way of locating it onto the lathe bench. The short belt was just a length to hand, and the WW headstock will eventually be replaced by another heavier-duty DIY spindle. I'm not entirely unfamiliar with lathe based gear cutting but my own setup is still a work in progress. Overhead Drive for lathe Hardinge Cataract gear cutting in progress A new ratchet wheel for a ladies fusee watch
You need to unscrew the other end of the latch with a small Phillips screwdriver, then it will flip up.if you are careful and have the new battery ready, you can slip it in place without letting he screw fall out of the hole in the latch. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro