I open this thread to archive works on Citizen 8110A Bullhead. I purchased this watch in poor condition as You can see on the photos.
Cause I have serviced few chronographs in the past I decide to try restore this watch. Maybe is not ractional from the economical aspect but we do this because we love it So let's open it.
Hands are in good condition (required repaint and relume) but the dial has broken legs and tachy scale is faded :/ I think it's really hard to find orginal and there is no gold aftermarket replacement - sad. Look at the movement.
Gosh, what a dirty place It needs good cleaning and oiling.
But the biggest problems are this.
Broken post on main spring bridge and missing rocking bar core and screw in gear train. I need to find replacement.
While I'll be working on movement the case and pushers are send to renew - putting new gold plated coat
Hey everyone, I cant find out how to get this drown off and I've tried everything. The Miyota JS25 movement says PUSH and points to a hole which I've learned means this is where you press to reease the crown but I still can't get the crown out no matter which position the crown is in. I first tried with the crown all the way out then with it halfway in, then all the way in and haven't been able to get it out, please help.
Why my seiko speedtimer 7015 chronograph run smoothly when its day(morning till evening)
But its stop and heavy when its time to changing the day date,whats the problem and how to fix it..
First of all my apologies for not having documented the disassembling, but the watch arrived in a terrible condition and I stripped it down right away to get rid of all that dirt.
If you have worked on some watches yet and think about entering the chronograph world with a 7734 let me give you 3 advices:
Do it! The 7734 is a solid construction and not too complicated. Take your time and watch all the 6 parts of Mark's Venus 175-service on youtube. Of course the Venus is a column wheel system, but the basic movement is very similar and also on the chrono layer you can learn a lot especially about lubrication: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EI3T-IR3AgM Download the 7734 service manual. A lot of information here: https://strela-watch.de/valjoux-7734-7733-7736-technical-documentation/
Here we go. Some 8200 for the barrel and the new mainspring goes in (got it from cousins - what I'm gonna do after Brexit? ).
The complete barrel. Some D5 for the arbor.
Putting in the wheels and the bridges. Lubrication: 9010 for the escape wheel and the second wheel, D5 for all others.
The keyless works. 9501 for the stem and the gears.
D5 for the wheels and the lever axis, 9501 for the contact points of levers and springs.
The click spring.
D5 for the click and the crown wheel, 9501 for the contact point of click and its spring. Finally the ratchet wheel goes in.
The pallets go back in, no lubrication for the pivots.
Lubricating the balance jewels with 9010.
The balance back in. The escape wheel and the pallets got epilame so I let run the movement with dry pallets for some minutes.
After that 941 for the pallets (work from the dial side through the window).
Now I start with the chronograph. First the bridge and the spring for the levers go in.
Fly back lever goes in with some D5.
Operating lever, again D5 for the axis. A little bit tricky, you must upline the integrated spring with the upper lever first (9501 for the contact area). The second pictures shows the final layering.
The sliding gear goes in, D5 for the lever axis, no lubrication for the wheel!
At this point I forgot to put in the minute recorder runner (no lubrication). You should install it here, later its going to be more difficult.
The blocking lever (D5) returns. Some 9501 for the contact area to the sliding gear.
The blocking lever spring. Be very careful, this one isn't just a flyer, its a damned Lockheed SR-71 Blackbird.
The friction spring (gets a drop of 9010).
The chronograph runner and its bridge (9010 for the long pivot and the jewel in the bridge).
The minute recorder jumper, no lubrication.
The hammer. D5 for the axis, 9010 for the lever ends that hit the hearts, 9501 for the contact areas to the sliding gear, fly back lever, operating lever, jumper.
The hammer cam jumper.
Before installing the clutch give 9010 to the pivots of the coupling wheel. D5 to the lever axis.
The spring. 9501 for the contact point.
Finally line up the driving wheel with the coupling wheel and the chrono layer is complete again!
The dial side. Some 9501 and the cannon pinion goes in.
Hour wheel with D5.
The dial rest with its 3 screws.
The date indicator.
The date indicator driving wheel with some D5.
The jumper with D5 to its axis. As there was no lubrication described in the manual between disc/jumper or disc/wheel and the parts looked well polished I didn’t lubricate. It works - let’s see how long.
The guard with 2 screws.
Finally the spring.
The dial comes back and is secured with its 2 screws from the side.
While disassembling I put the little hands into seperate trays to prevent mixing them up.
Now I turned the crown in the setting position exactly to the point when the date switches and put on the hour hand to 12.
Positioning the chrono-hand exactly on zero was that tricky that I forgot to take a pic.
New springs and gaskets for the pushers. Unfortunatly I’m not good in restoring cases. So just refreshing the brushing a bit and some cape cod work.
The movement back in the case and secured with 2 screws. A new gasket for the caseback and here we are.
Thank you for watching.
I recently acquired an Omega Speedmaster automatic from the 1970's that has the Omega 1045 / Lemania 5100 movement inside. Long story short- the previous owner tried to service it and made a mess instead. I've managed to source all the parts I think I need except one for the automatic works- the Stop Spring (part no. 1414). This looks like a part I may be able to fabricate but if the original is available I would prefer that. Unfortunately I've come up empty with my usual suppliers. Cousins is the one one who may have it, but it's Restricted which I suppose means you need to be an Omega authorized technician (which I naturally am not) to purchase.
If anyone has a lead to follow I would be most grateful for your assistance. This piece is a proper mess right now but I think I'm close to bringing it back from the dead.
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Barrel and center wheel are different across A, B and C versions, details on my sheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vRN2UULQKTfKmhRStZhDdIOIQrqd6sPB-g6x2SKyQQjOvTBjG_7TQXQhAT4f1WqAX5QAPkIimi-3jqd/pubhtml I think only the C version is interchangeable with the NH3x. I am ready to send one to Giuseppe, but if he wants to buy from Cousins I suggest that for 15 pounds more he gets a complete new mov't, and use the current one for practice, resell or even build a custom watch.