Jump to content
  • Similar Content

    • By Calvin
      Hello guys..
      Why my seiko speedtimer 7015 chronograph run smoothly when its day(morning till evening)
      But its stop and heavy when its time to changing the day date,whats the problem and how to fix it..
      Thankyiuu
    • By Delgetti
      First of all my apologies for not having documented the disassembling, but the watch arrived in a terrible condition and I stripped it down right away to get rid of all that dirt.
      If you have worked on some watches yet and think about entering the chronograph world with a 7734 let me give you 3 advices:
       
      Do it! The 7734 is a solid construction and not too complicated. Take your time and watch all the 6 parts of Mark's Venus 175-service on youtube. Of course the Venus is a column wheel system, but the basic movement is very similar and also on the chrono layer you can learn a lot especially about lubrication: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EI3T-IR3AgM Download the 7734 service manual. A lot of information here: https://strela-watch.de/valjoux-7734-7733-7736-technical-documentation/  
      Here we go. Some 8200 for the barrel and the new mainspring goes in (got it from cousins - what I'm gonna do after Brexit?  ).

       
      The complete barrel. Some D5 for the arbor. 

       
      Putting in the wheels and the bridges. Lubrication: 9010 for the escape wheel and the second wheel, D5 for all others. 

       

       

       

       
      The keyless works. 9501 for the stem and the gears. 

       
      D5 for the wheels and the lever axis, 9501 for the contact points of levers and springs. 

       

       
      The click spring. 

       
      D5 for the click and the crown wheel, 9501 for the contact point of click and its spring. Finally the ratchet wheel goes in.

       
      The pallets go back in, no lubrication for the pivots. 

       
      Lubricating the balance jewels with 9010. 

       
      The balance back in. The escape wheel and the pallets got epilame so I let run the movement with dry pallets for some minutes. 

       
      After that 941 for the pallets (work from the dial side through the window).

       
      Now I start with the chronograph. First the bridge and the spring for the levers go in. 

       

       
      Fly back lever goes in with some D5. 

       
      Operating lever, again D5 for the axis. A little bit tricky, you must upline the integrated spring with the upper lever first (9501 for the contact area). The second pictures shows the final layering. 


       
      The sliding gear goes in, D5 for the lever axis, no lubrication for the wheel!

       
      At this point I forgot to put in the minute recorder runner (no lubrication). You should install it here, later its going to be more difficult. 
      The blocking lever (D5) returns. Some 9501 for the contact area to the sliding gear. 

       
      The blocking lever spring. Be very careful, this one isn't just a flyer, its a damned Lockheed SR-71 Blackbird. 

       
      The friction spring (gets a drop of 9010). 

       
      The chronograph runner and its bridge (9010 for the long pivot and the jewel in the bridge). 

       
      The minute recorder jumper, no lubrication. 

       
      The hammer. D5 for the axis, 9010 for the lever ends that hit the hearts, 9501 for the contact areas to the sliding gear, fly back lever, operating lever, jumper. 

       
      The hammer cam jumper. 

       
      Before installing the clutch give 9010 to the pivots of the coupling wheel. D5 to the lever axis. 

       
      The spring. 9501 for the contact point. 

       
      Finally line up the driving wheel with the coupling wheel and the chrono layer is complete again!

       
      The dial side. Some 9501 and the cannon pinion goes in.

       
      Hour wheel with D5.

       
      The dial rest with its 3 screws.

       
      The date indicator.

       
      The date indicator driving wheel with some D5.

       
      The jumper with D5 to its axis. As there was no lubrication described in the manual between disc/jumper or disc/wheel and the parts looked well polished I didn’t lubricate. It works - let’s see how long.

       
      The guard with 2 screws.

       
      Finally the spring.

       
      The dial comes back and is secured with its 2 screws from the side.

       
      While disassembling I put the little hands into seperate trays to prevent mixing them up.

       
      Now I turned the crown in the setting position exactly to the point when the date switches and put on the hour hand to 12.
      Positioning the chrono-hand exactly on zero was that tricky that I forgot to take a pic.

       

       
      New springs and gaskets for the pushers. Unfortunatly I’m not good in restoring cases. So just refreshing the brushing a bit and some cape cod work.

       
      The movement back in the case and secured with 2 screws. A new gasket for the caseback and here we are.

       

       
      Thank you for watching. 

    • By RyMoeller
      I recently acquired an Omega Speedmaster automatic from the 1970's that has the Omega 1045 / Lemania 5100 movement inside.  Long story short- the previous owner tried to service it and made a mess instead.  I've managed to source all the parts I think I need except one for the automatic works- the Stop Spring (part no. 1414).  This looks like a part I may be able to fabricate but if the original is available I would prefer that.  Unfortunately I've come up empty with my usual suppliers.   Cousins is the one one who may have it, but it's Restricted which I suppose means you need to be an Omega authorized technician (which I naturally am not) to purchase.

       
      If anyone has a lead to follow I would be most grateful for your assistance.  This piece is a proper mess right now but I think I'm close to bringing it back from the dead.

    • By RyMoeller
      Here's a look at the finished product. The new luminous paint has been applied with a light tint to give it an aged appearance which compliments the dial. The hour and minute hands have been painted with the same batch to ensure a proper match. They'll be affixed to the movement once the paint has cured for several days.
    • By RyMoeller
      The old paint has been removed to review the markings underneath. The old luminous paint came away quite easily with a bit of pegwood.
  • Recently Browsing

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • When working with small metal parts, (not necessarily watch parts, but this applies with those too), I will superglue the part to something I can easily hold, for example plastic card stock, or some other metal, then file away, drill, etc.  then dissolve the superglue in acetone to remove the part.
    • A bit of a classic Timex. So much so that Timex recently released a Snoopy version of the new Miyota automatic based Marlins, and a bunch of other self homages in the Peanuts Charlie Brown, Snoopy & Friends range. This more petite version, I'm guessing from the mid seventies, is the one I remember from my childhood, blue dial and all. It is heading in my direction as a "non runner" (no surprises there), and I was the only bid at £1.93  
    • I have recently purchased a National, Electric Watch Cleaning Machine. Attached is a photo for reference and identification of the model type. As can be seen, it has a fairly typical design, reminiscent of many other types, particularly Elma Super Elite. In fact, I do wonder which came first - the National or the Elma. My musings on this point later. This is a very old machine, circa late 1940’s, 1950’s, but they seem to turn up sometimes on eBay, in various conditions ranging from the “beyond hope” and only really suitable as a donor for parts, and the “old but serviceable” and might-be-worth-a-punt-on machines. This one fell into the middle somewhere, as it was a bit tatty and the heating element did not work. On the plus side, it had all its original cleaning fluid jars and lids, and the motor and speed control gave smooth, controllable spinning and no play in the bearings. I went to visit the seller to inspect it and we did a deal on the spot. This is not always possible on eBay, but as the seller had listed it as for collection only (due to its weight), it was a possibility on this occasion. Once I had it home and gave it the once over, I decided that I would have to either do without heating for the drying stage, or find a replacement element. At the same time, it was very obvious that all of the original cabling was not safe to leave in place and it would all have to be removed and replaced. Any other electrical parts deemed unsafe would also be replaced as I inspected them. So - the idea of a restoration (of sorts) was born. Now - it is not my intention to restore it to the point where it could pass current electrical safety standards, but I will be making it as safe as possible, without losing any of the essential character of the original machine. This is not going to be for resale, so being safe to use is an acceptable compromise, in my opinion. I will however, perform testing on it once the electrical work is done, to make sure that the essential aspects of earth leakage, earth bonds and polarity etc. are passed. (PAT Testing included.) Whilst this is not likely to turn into another example of a superb restoration of an Elma Super Elite (as seen elsewhere on these forums), I hope at least to have at the end of it, a perfectly serviceable watch cleaning machine, and a restoration story - of sorts - of a vintage piece of English watch making and servicing machinery. So first off - the before pictures. This one is a good view of the machine and its cosmetic condition, as purchased. The base is a heavy, cast alloy jobbie, with its original crackle paint job beginning to flake away in places, where the years of cleaning chemicals have attacked it,  but generally sound. The jars still had residues of cleaning and rinse chemicals present. The first wash jar (front left), was particularly grotty and can’t have been cleaned for years. Fairly ironic not to clean the thing, that cleans the things! Maybe it was just left unused and unloved for many years. The mains cable was a cloth-bound type I have not seen in years and could well have been original as it still had the old UK wiring standard colours of red/black/green. Also adding to the vintage-ness, was a very old, Bakelite three pin plug. This must have been one of the first of its type as I have not seen one in brown Bakelite before! (And I am 62...) Anyway, that’s enough for now, as I’m not even sure anyone wants to read much about such an old machine. If anyone is interested though, please add comments and I’ll add to the story as I make progress. At the very least, I hope I have found a potential solution to finding/ making your own heating elements for these old machines, which could also include providing replacements for Elma Super Elite, RM80/90 HCS511 etc. Machines. More details later...
    • Wood is surely more sustainable and cheap than brass... I noticed that sometimes people like clickspring (makes videos on tooling and clockmaking) use some kind of superglue to hold metal together.  At 6:54, if you get bored...  
    • I've just bought a small amount of the Horotec Episurf-Neo, which is advertised as a 'next gen' epilame treatment. Directions for use say 30 second dip, 60 second dry at air temperature. So no heat required. I too am looking for a cheap DIY alternative to the special dip bottle. I've been experimenting with the little filter baskets from the water inlets on washing machines! Haven't found the perfect solution yet, but I'm working on it!    
×
×
  • Create New...