Jump to content

ETA cal. 2824-2 (17 jewels) disassembly/assembly

VWatchie
 Share

Recommended Posts

VWatchie Distinguished Member

VWatchie

Posted
Posted

Just took apart my very first ETA cal. 2824-2 (17 jewels), and I took a picture of every step. Mark Lovick “assisted me” with a sure hand as I went along (thank you!), so my pictures (more or less) replicate his disassembly procedure.

The general idea is that I first take a picture of the part that I’m about to remove (pretty much centred in the picture), and the following picture shows the part along with any screws that held it in place.

I’ve used an iPhone 6s with a macro lens to take the pictures and I’ve strived to obtain as much focus as I possibly can so that it will be easier to find the right screws during assembly.

The pictures are stored on my OneDrive and should be sorted by name (default is photo date) in ascending order.

I’ll post my assembly pictures in this thread once I’m done (waiting for a new mainspring, Moebius 8217, Moebius 8981, and Lubeta v105).

Disassembly pictures here!

  • Like 5
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
clockboy Distinguished Member

clockboy

Posted
Posted

Interesting and nice movement. The canon pinion is attached to a drive wheel which is a different design than the norm, if my memory serves me well when I serviced one a few years ago I have had to replace this wheel due to lack of friction.   

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
VWatchie Distinguished Member

VWatchie

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, m1ks said:

Very thorough and detailed and great images for phone.

Love that dial on your watch.

Thanks, @m1ks! I use the images myself by browsing them on my iPad/iPhone while disassembling/assembling. There's always a chance to miss something so the images are a great reminder.

Yes, the dial is nicer than I thought it would be (thanks!), but the main reason I bought the watch (€155) was because of its movement, but I didn't realize it was a 17 jewel 2824-2. Anyway, doesn't matter as I expect the 25 jewels version to be (more or less) identical. Got another one (€139), this time 25 jewels, on eBay just the other night (pictures below). It's going to be interesting to see what the differences are. It's a pretty plain looking watch, but watches are like people, what matters the most is the inside, and the movement looks like it's in very good condition! ;)

 

TISSOT1.jpg

TISSOT2.jpg

Edited by VWatchie
added some extra info
Link to comment
Share on other sites
VWatchie Distinguished Member

VWatchie

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
17 hours ago, clockboy said:

Interesting and nice movement. The canon pinion is attached to a drive wheel which is a different design than the norm, if my memory serves me well when I serviced one a few years ago I have had to replace this wheel due to lack of friction.   

Thanks, @clockboy! I have another one coming in (the TISSOT in the previous post) so it's going to be interesting to see how (and if) it differs in this respect. Before disassembly, the friction seemed perfectly fine so I hope it has stayed that way during the cleaning process. Otherwise, I'll get in touch with @HSL :)

Edited by VWatchie
clarification
Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...
VWatchie Distinguished Member

VWatchie

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Assembly pictures here (IMPORTANT! Please sort by name in ascending order).

So, just finished reassembling my first ETA cal. 2824-2. To be able to service this type of movement was my long-term goal when I started out on my watch repairing/servicing journey a couple of years ago as it is one of the most popular high-quality Swiss movements found in many renowned watch brands. So, feeling pretty good about myself for having reached this goal! :biggrin:

Initially, I didn’t intend to include any points of lubrication (there are approx. 70 of them) but changed my mind in the process. I also included information on what parts (according to ETA) should be treated with Moebius Fixodrop ES/BS 8981 which I had not even heard about before I saw it in ETA’s technical communication for the 2824-2. I also mention the use of LUBETA v105 for the reversing wheels which ETA does not communicate. According to ETA the reversing wheels should not be cleaned but replaced if dirty or rusty :huh:

As mentioned in the title, my 2824-2 is a 17 jewels version whereas most 2824-2s are 25 jewels. I’ve concluded that the difference is the automatic device framework plate (6 jewels) and reversing wheels (2 jewels). Also, my version isn’t hackable as it lacks a stop lever (balance stop), but other than that the pictures should apply to all 2824-2s. I’ve included ETA’s drawing of the stop lever (at the correct place in the sequence of my pictures) and where it is fitted in the movement.

I will add a few more pictures in the coming weeks which will show mounting the automatic device framework, the oscillating weight and putting together the entire watch. The reason I haven’t yet done this is that I’m waiting for a new pallet fork as I got a pretty clear indication on my timing machine that it isn’t healthy. I had the same reading before the service but was hoping it was just the result of dirt and/or dried up oil.
 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
VWatchie Distinguished Member

VWatchie

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I forgot to mention that "Moebius HP-1300" and "Moebius HP-1300 SC" is, in essence, the same oil. The only difference is that the "SC" type is colourless while the other is red. The SC version is intended for skeleton movements.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
VWatchie Distinguished Member

VWatchie

Posted
  • Author
Posted
2 hours ago, Endeavor said:

So impressive that I broke my silence :Bravo:

Thanks, Endeavor! Heartwarming!  :wub:

Next up will be the Vostok cal. 2409 (forever in my heart). I'm hoping to be finishing it this week, and maybe that could be an addition to the "Vostok tutorial project"!?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Endeavor Distinguished Member

Endeavor

Posted
Posted

A Vostok 2409 or a 2414 tutorial would certainly be beneficial ...... however the WUS software has currently some problems (pictures are just disappearing, rendering the tutorial impaired / useless) and IMHO there is no point in placing a tutorial somewhere in a running thread, sinking away under all the other added stuff; never to be found again. That has to be sorted first before I would do some more ......

Alternatively, the tutorial can be placed in its own dedicated thread, with a distinctive name so it can be found again by the search engine or later referred to via a link (URL).

I'm impressed by your work and the picture quality ..... an asset to any watch forum :thumbsu:

Link to comment
Share on other sites
VWatchie Distinguished Member

VWatchie

Posted
  • Author
Posted
12 minutes ago, Endeavor said:

A Vostok 2409 or a 2414 tutorial would certainly be beneficial ...... however the WUS software has currently some problems (pictures are just disappearing, rendering the tutorial impaired / useless) and IMHO there is no point in placing a tutorial somewhere in a running thread, sinking away under all the other added stuff; never to be found again. That has to be sorted first before I would do some more ......

Alternatively, the tutorial can be placed in its own dedicated thread, with a distinctive name so it can be found again by the search engine or later referred to via a link (URL).

I'm impressed by your work and the picture quality ..... an asset to any watch forum :thumbsu:

The WUS problems are just too bad and I do agree, no use burying hard work in a running thread. Anyway, I'll publish links to my Vostok 24XX picture walkthroughs here at WRT once I'm done, and of course, my pictures will be available for future use once the right context/thread is in place.

Thanks for your kind words! They mean a lot to me! :bow:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
m1ks WRT Addict

m1ks

Posted
Posted
On 6/10/2019 at 3:53 PM, clockboy said:

Interesting and nice movement. The canon pinion is attached to a drive wheel which is a different design than the norm, if my memory serves me well when I serviced one a few years ago I have had to replace this wheel due to lack of friction.   

Good point re the cannon pinion. This type cannot be tightened like your typical one and if loose has to be replaced.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
VWatchie Distinguished Member

VWatchie

Posted
  • Author
Posted

y4m_8qq-D5ToR53ZYTC1VX5Wla7hwWcnsxtXMtQk

Just concluded the assembly sequence of my ETA 2824-2 by adding pictures for replacing the...

  • automatic device framework,
  • hour wheel,
  • dial support,
  • dial,
  • hands,
  • case,
  • movement fixing ring,
  • case back gasket,
  • oscillating weight,
  • case back lid, and
  • strap

I always seem to mix up the sequence for replacing these parts, like replacing the dial and forgetting about the hour wheel, or installing the oscillating weight before the movement is in the case, etc. The idea is that when I assemble my next watch housing an ETA 2824-2 I can just browse the pictures to see what to do next and that will enable me to focus entirely on the execution.

If you wish to use the same sequence please remember to order the pictures by name in ascending order, and hopefully, you'll find this picture walkthrough useful and convenient! BTW, if you have a smartphone or tablet you can download the free OneDrive app for Android and iOS which I have found to be the most convenient way to browse the pictures.

Thanks for your attention!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Watchtime Super WRT Addict

Watchtime

Posted
Posted

you clearly know your stuff mate, and amazing quality photos...:Bravo: I just put them on my Tab 4 and will follow your pictorial while trying to disassemble a 2836 bought for practicing.

Thanks for sharing, sharing knowledge is what makes WRT such a great forum

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 4 months later...
Firearmor New Member

Firearmor

Posted
Posted

 

On 6/10/2019 at 5:35 AM, VWatchie said:

Just took apart my very first ETA cal. 2824-2 (17 jewels), and I took a picture of every step. Mark Lovick “assisted me” with a sure hand as I went along (thank you!), so my pictures (more or less) replicate his disassembly procedure.

The general idea is that I first take a picture of the part that I’m about to remove (pretty much centred in the picture), and the following picture shows the part along with any screws that held it in place.

I’ve used an iPhone 6s with a macro lens to take the pictures and I’ve strived to obtain as much focus as I possibly can so that it will be easier to find the right screws during assembly.

The pictures are stored on my OneDrive and should be sorted by name (default is photo date) in ascending order.

I’ll post my assembly pictures in this thread once I’m done (waiting for a new mainspring, Moebius 8217, Moebius 8981, and Lubeta v105).

Disassembly pictures here!

Thank you so much for posting this. I just tore down my 2879. I took pictures but my lighting is so bad that the pictures kinda Suck. Your 2824 is pretty close to my 2879 so these pictures will help me out a ton when i go to reassemble.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
VWatchie Distinguished Member

VWatchie

Posted
  • Author
Posted
4 hours ago, Firearmor said:

 

Thank you so much for posting this. I just tore down my 2879. I took pictures but my lighting is so bad that the pictures kinda Suck. Your 2824 is pretty close to my 2879 so these pictures will help me out a ton when i go to reassemble.

Thanks, and I'm very glad to hear that my pictures will be of use to you. I've serviced two other ETA movements since, calibre 2472 and 2772 (which I'll publish a picture service walkthrough of eventually). It's clear that the 2824-2 is an evolution of both as they are very similar. However, the calendar works of the 2472 is the most sophisticated with its true instant date change. The calendar ring doesn't move one bit until it flips over. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 10 months later...
Colditz WRT Addict

Colditz

Posted
Posted

Love this and thank you for the brilliant pictures. I am just about to service a Tag Heuer with this movement. Do you know where i can obtain a mainspring for the 2824-2? I have a feeling it has lost the spring in its step.:)

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
VWatchie Distinguished Member

VWatchie

Posted
  • Author
Posted
8 hours ago, Colditz said:

Love this and thank you for the brilliant pictures. I am just about to service a Tag Heuer with this movement. Do you know where i can obtain a mainspring for the 2824-2? I have a feeling it has lost the spring in its step.:)

 

 

Thank you! If you shop from CousinsUK.com you can either get a Generale Ressorts mainspring replacement (GR3149X) or an original barrel complete. Good luck with your Tag!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Jon
      Introducing myself

      By Jon · Posted

      Hi there  
    • Jon
      Movement inserted from crytal side

      By Jon · Posted

      Put the movement in a movement holder and it will be supported as you push down on the setting lever post to release the winding stem. Make sure the post is over the shoulder of the movement holder so what you are pressing down on is supported. As a general rule, hold the movement and not the movement holder. Replace the hands when the movement isn't in the case and support the centre jewel (if it has one) on a hard surface or staking block when replacing the hands to stop the jewel accidentally moving or even coming out. A dedicated movement holder with a central jewel support is even better, but pricey
    • JohnR725
      Main spring

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      It might help us if we knew which watch like model number.
    • Zedster
      Movement inserted from crytal side

      By Zedster · Posted

      Hi, guys I have a bit of a predicament and hopefully, somebody can advise. I'm working on a Roamer MST 521 where the movement is extracted from the crystal side. I'm now at the final hurdle where I need to replace the movement back into its case but I'm not sure of the correct procedure. I still need to fit the hands but that's where the problem lies. If I insert the winding stem to test the hands for correct alignment I will need to turn the movement over to release the stem again it's the spring-loaded type and needs a small bit of force to push down but with the hands fitted, I don't think I can do this on a cushion without causing some damage to the hands and that's the last thing I want to do, this watch has already been a love-hate relationship and I'm so close to boxing this one off which I'm counting as my first major project.  The other option is to case the movement then fit the hands and hope everything is okay. I've already broken the original winding stem but managed to find a replacement, the last one in stock, so I'm a bit reluctant to keep removing it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. 
    • Jon
      Main spring

      By Jon · Posted

      I would go for the dearer spring. You won't need to remove the spring from the carrier ring and then use a mainspring winder to get it into the barrel, for a start. Also that spring is closer to the needed dimensions, especially the length. The length plays a part in the mainsprings strength. If you double the length you will half the force (strength) of the spring and vice-versa. A spring with 20 mm less length would be about 7% shorter, so technically would be 7% more strength, but I find halving this number is closer to real-world findings, so the spring would be about 3 to 4% more strength/force. On a mainspring that ideally kicks out 300 degrees of amplitude, a 3% increase in amplitude would be 309 degrees. Increasing or decreasing the length of the mainspring will affect the power reserve to a greater or lesser degree. It depends how much shorter or longer it is.
×
×
  • Create New...